I would like to know where one stands if the outcome was much worse than you have just experienced?
Perhaps a scenario which involves one uninsured/insured yacht dragging into another with a possible hull breach and sinking?
Would this be Negligence Due to weather, poor seamanship or faulty ground tackle?
I looked into this a little a while back and I'm of the understanding that your not covered by insurance if your yacht does not have a permeant "fixed address".
I personally would not leave my loved yacht unmanned and at anchor for more than 12 hours.
Manson supreme or the South Australian Marsh anchor with full chain is my choice of tackle and I skip the swivel after one failing in the moolooba boat anchorage while retrieving my anchor when it hit the roller.
I had similar problem in Westerport Vic.
tried a few different anchors, than borrowed old fashion Admiralty Anchor
achieved best holding
What size is your broken winch Cisco. Is it a Barient 21?. If so I might be able to drop the top section off on my way past. That is, the plastic composite bit. I don't have a spare casting. Cheers
Cisco you said,
"I am going to have heavy iron blocks with a bar around which I will loop a mooring line."
Surely you mean your anchor line will have a gal thimble and a large gal shackle onto the bar?
Otherwise that rope is not going to last long!
Select to expand quoteCrusoe said..
What size is your broken winch Cisco. Is it a Barient 21?. If so I might be able to drop the top section off on my way past. That is, the plastic composite bit. I don't have a spare casting. Cheers
Thanks mate. I have already got new jaws from Hutton Winches.
Select to expand quotenswsailor said..
Cisco you said,
"I am going to have heavy iron blocks with a bar around which I will loop a mooring line."
Surely you mean your anchor line will have a gal thimble and a large gal shackle onto the bar?
Otherwise that rope is not going to last long!
The mooring line will have a spliced eye with plastic hose on it for anti chafe. The eye will pass under the bar and the mooring line passed back through the eye and cinched up tight.
Midtown Marina's commercial moorings were originally chain but they were only getting three years out of them. They changed to all rope and end of problem.
The water flow in the river causes electrolysis which just eroded the chain away. I have bought top quality "Super Dan" rope which is more than twice the strength of equivalent size "Silver" rope.
Based on other people's experience I am confident with what I am setting up.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I personally would not leave my loved yacht unmanned and at anchor for more than 12 hours.
Manson supreme or the South Australian Marsh anchor with full chain is my choice of tackle and I skip the swivel after one failing in the moolooba boat anchorage while retrieving my anchor when it hit the roller.
I wish I had that luxury and not have to leave her untended. My very good mate keeps an eye on her though and has a key to get her going if necessary. I love the boat to the moon and back but I try not to get too emotional when making decisions about it.
Re swivels:- There are arguements for and against but if one is going to be fitted it needs to be twice the chain size to match the load strength or at least have working load strength to match or exceed that of the chain.
Select to expand quotecisco said..nswsailor said..
Cisco you said,
"I am going to have heavy iron blocks with a bar around which I will loop a mooring line."
Surely you mean your anchor line will have a gal thimble and a large gal shackle onto the bar?
Otherwise that rope is not going to last long!
The mooring line will have a spliced eye with plastic hose on it for anti chafe. The eye will pass under the bar and the mooring line passed back through the eye and cinched up tight.
Midtown Marina's commercial moorings were originally chain but they were only getting three years out of them. They changed to all rope and end of problem.
The water flow in the river causes electrolysis which just eroded the chain away. I have bought top quality "Super Dan" rope which is more than twice the strength of equivalent size "Silver" rope.
Based on other people's experience I am confident with what I am setting up.
Make sure the plastic hose is out of the sunlight. UV makes it harden and the cut ends become sharp. Sharp enough to cut through a rope riser as one of my neighbouring boats found out. Best to use polyprop fire hose.
As far as chain goes you must not use anything out of China as I have found that it only lasts a couple of years
whereas some English/Australian chain I have has been down for almost seven years and it is as good as the day it went in.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Make sure the plastic hose is out of the sunlight. UV makes it harden and the cut ends become sharp. Sharp enough to cut through a rope riser as one of my neighbouring boats found out. Best to use polyprop fire hose.
I am going to use irrigation hose. It is UV stable and comes in a range of sizes. I am sure it would be poly prop like the fire hose.
I have put her back out almost exactly where she was with a swivel between anchor and chain and all 20 metres of chain out.
We have had up to 35 knot gusts coming through in the last 48 hours from south and east and she has not budged. I am a happy chappy.
has anyone tried this app?....www.slimjimsoftware.co.uk/
basically you can leave an old phone on board...and if your boat drifts from the parameters you have set, it will alarm and send you and sms with its current location on google maps.
Select to expand quotenods said..
has anyone tried this app?....www.slimjimsoftware.co.uk/
basically you can leave an old phone on board...and if your boat drifts from the parameters you have set, it will alarm and send you and sms with its current location on google maps.
Some time back I bought a similar unit that is designed for motorbikes. Its basically just a small Gps with a sim card. The bike leaves a set area it dials your phone. It has sat on my desk for about 18 months. I bought an ALDI sim card and done nothing with it. Cost about $18 from China.
Rocna have a new design!
Now I have been a fan of the Ultra from way back and I have a SS version I built my self. Seems that Rocna have switched to the Spade concept with the T section shank and the ballasted base. The Ultra is merely a refinement of the Spade. So now we will have a cheaper version of an Ultra in galvanised steel. Not that Rocna's are ever really cheap!
www.actionhub.com/pr/2014/09/19/rocna-debuts-non-roll-bar-anchor-design-2014-boat-shows/
Read more in PBO forum.
forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/new-rocna.409719/
