Update on this - it's a mystery no longer!
Went today, left the bilge pump off for 3 days and water was highest I've seen (just coming over the wooden floor near mast. No rain over last 3 days (not much - little last night I think).
Water is salty so not fresh water. Pumped out the water with bilge pump. Cleaned and dried the whole bilge floor from stern gland at back to toilet sea cocks at the front. Laid down the paper towels at 1.30pm and by 1.45pm I had my suspect. By 2pm it was confirmed.
It's the area where the shaft comes from the Sole Mini 14 engine and then passes through the hull. It leaks in two areas there:
1. Slight drip every minute (like one drop) from what I think is the stern gland
2. Bigger more timely leaks from where the shaft passes through the hull into a type of upright fibreglass box (see picture) These leaks soon turn into a puddle and within 15 mins it was clear this just builds up and up and then flows over the little slat bulkhead under the engine and then down into the normal bilge area.
The bilge pump would then kick in and constantly get hammered and the 20w solar panel is not enough to keep it powered up. The leaks seem to come through the fibreglass, I mean it looks like osmosis in fast motion. I can't see an actual hole around there but it just appears. There are two bolts connecting the stern gland onto the fibreglass hull box thing and there is a leak under one on the other side as well.
Whatever multi battery/solar system I upgrade to will obviously not beat this so I'd like to know what's the best course of action to fix the leaks (Pittwater area)?
Can I paint over it with something? Can I fibreglass over the area and hope that fixes it? Does the stern gland need to be pulled off and re-mounted?
This has been an interesting learning curve and I'm really thankful for all the tips from you all.
Onto fixing it now but need to know how.
PS: seem to be some type of leak coming from diesel fuel tank. Water mixed with diesel, not much but want to fix it. Noticed this pipe coming out of fuel tank for no apparent reason (see attached). Does it evapourate diesel tank fumes or something and maybe it ends up on the floor below it?
Thanks
I'm afraid that is an out of water job. If it is coming from the glass around the shaft, or if it is coming from the gland, the shaft and gland will need to come out to fix it. You can't glass over it or do anything from the inside. Trust me, if it it gets much worse the boat will go down quite quickly. Vibration from the shaft could well cause a weak section of glass to break away so keep a close eye on it taking it to a haul out.
You may have your own tradies but I reckon the guys at Sirsi (Corey Hill on 0414 555 533) down at Newport are well placed to do the repair. I have known them for 11 years and they have done the right thing by me over that time. MB had a broken stern tube, not dissimilar to your problem, and they devised a solution that has stood up to hard times.
Select to expand quoteMorningBird said..
I'm afraid that is an out of water job. If it is coming from the glass around the shaft, or if it is coming from the gland, the shaft and gland will need to come out to fix it. You can't glass over it or do anything from the inside. Trust me, if it it gets much worse the boat will go down quite quickly. Vibration from the shaft could well cause a weak section of glass to break away so keep a close eye on it taking it to a haul out.
You may have your own tradies but I reckon the guys at Sirsi (Corey Hill on 0414 555 533) down at Newport are well placed to do the repair. I have known them for 11 years and they have done the right thing by me over that time. MB had a broken stern tube, not dissimilar to your problem, and they devised a solution that has stood up to hard times.
Thanks for the advice MB. Yep I thought it might be an out of water job. I have the annual hull clean/anti foul weekend slip coming up in a few months and think I might try to limp through to then and do it that weekend. What I noted today was when a boat went past and my boat got hit by some small swell the leak increased.
I will just keep an eye on it until then.
Noted on the tip for Sirsi/Corey. I will give him a ring at some point.
Thank you.
Have a good one.
You are a braver lad than I hanging in for a few months with a leak that increased due to boat rocking.
If you live close enough probably good to pop out to her daily.
Cash might be tight but take Morning Birds advice haul out now or it may cost you a lot more.
Thanks twodogs. Having second thoughts this morning and might fast track slipping it.
Cheers
It's hard to tell from the photos but I think you are talking about a leak from the two bolts holding the flange against the fibreglass bit where the stern tube attaches. The two bolts are probably coach screws into end grain timber under that fibreglass. That bronze bit held in place by the two coach bolts is screwed onto a bronze tube that the shaft runs through. Most likely you have a water lubricated rear bearing and that tube is full of seawater. These tubes can corrode through after a few years and you get water both sides of the tube. Because there is some vibration from the shaft the threads on the coach screws wear away the end grain timber and the screws come loose which allows water to leak past that flange. The screws wont tighten up properly but it can be repaired with Fibremax, one thread at a time even if its saturated but it's not a job for the faint hearted. For a temporary repair you could use Selleys Knead it and jam it around the edges of the flange. This is a fine product and is easy to use, even underwater.
The stern gland itself might just need repacking. There should be plenty of Youtube videos on repacking your version. Ensure you use the right packing material and use as many pieces as you can fit. That type of gland should have a drip when operating and not get too warm. It's best to have it tight enough though not to drip when stationary.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
It's hard to tell from the photos but I think you are talking about a leak from the two bolts holding the flange against the fibreglass bit where the stern tube attaches. The two bolts are probably coach screws into end grain timber under that fibreglass. That bronze bit held in place by the two coach bolts is screwed onto a bronze tube that the shaft runs through. Most likely you have a water lubricated rear bearing and that tube is full of seawater. These tubes can corrode through after a few years and you get water both sides of the tube. Because there is some vibration from the shaft the threads on the coach screws wear away the end grain timber and the screws come loose which allows water to leak past that flange. The screws wont tighten up properly but it can be repaired with Fibremax, one thread at a time even if its saturated but it's not a job for the faint hearted. For a temporary repair you could use Selleys Knead it and jam it around the edges of the flange. This is a fine product and is easy to use, even underwater.
The stern gland itself might just need repacking. There should be plenty of Youtube videos on repacking your version. Ensure you use the right packing material and use as many pieces as you can fit. That type of gland should have a drip when operating and not get too warm. It's best to have it tight enough though not to drip when stationary.
Hi Ramona, thanks for the tips. There is a grease gun there and I pumped some into a grease nipple just near the end of the stern tube. Not sure it's a water lubricated rear bearing (or it could be?)
Anyway I'm making enquiries to get it slipped ASAP to get a permanent fix (and do the annual clean hull/antifoul work + some electrics).
In the mean time I will give your Selley's Knead It tip a go. Can't hurt and it might plug it for awhile. I think you nailed it about the coach screws. The small leaks came from either side of both of them. Took ages to work it out in a cramped stuffy place.
Thanks again for the tips.
Learning everyday.
i keep kneadit on board , great stuff for tempory repair , makes it harder to do permanent repair afterwards but I think staying afloat takes precedence over all else and you get to sleep without worrying to much .
Knead it will only last about 20 years! If the coach bolts don't tighten up properly the "thread" in the timber can be replaced one at a time with Fibremax. This will mean lying down in an uncomfortable position for sometime though and as I mentioned previously is not for the faint hearted.
The grease nipple would be putting grease into the stern packing material and the excess just ends up in the tube.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Knead it will only last about 20 years! If the coach bolts don't tighten up properly the "thread" in the timber can be replaced one at a time with Fibremax. This will mean lying down in an uncomfortable position for sometime though and as I mentioned previously is not for the faint hearted.
The grease nipple would be putting grease into the stern packing material and the excess just ends up in the tube.
I would add it isn't a job for the faint hearted nor for anybody who doesn't know exactly what they are doing and the implications of undoing one coach bolt at a time.
In my experience I would take one out and the other side would be fully rotten and would pop out under the water pressure, with the flange. That would create a flood you won't stop.
Select to expand quoteMorningBird said..Ramona said..
Knead it will only last about 20 years! If the coach bolts don't tighten up properly the "thread" in the timber can be replaced one at a time with Fibremax. This will mean lying down in an uncomfortable position for sometime though and as I mentioned previously is not for the faint hearted.
The grease nipple would be putting grease into the stern packing material and the excess just ends up in the tube.
I would add it isn't a job for the faint hearted nor for anybody who doesn't know exactly what they are doing and the implications of undoing one coach bolt at a time.
In my experience I would take one out and the other side would be fully rotten and would pop out under the water pressure, with the flange. That would create a flood you won't stop.
Thanks Gents, will leave the long term fixing of the "leak" to the experts. I will slip it ASAP and see how it goes.
Selley's knead it going on and around flange and leak area tomorrow.
Checked the bilge today after 2 day absence and hardly any water and battery ok. Was expecting a lot more. Can't work that out.
Anyway thanks.
My stern tube leak did that. Stopped on the mooring and it was coming in fast. Rang the marina and motored down in a mild panic. Got down there, a 10 minute motor, and the bloody thing had stopped leaking. The tradie put his hand down and moved the shaft a s****teenth and it started again.
Food for thought:
It might be time for you to talk to Trek about his transponder before your boat goes to the bottom?
He is on the Pittwater too. 0404500502
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Food for thought:
It might be time for you to talk to Trek about his transponder before your boat goes to the bottom?
He is on the Pittwater too. 0404500502
Hi SG, got one (Thanks Tony) and installed it but have an issue with the SIM but will get it sorted. Good little system and should give me peace of mind once I sort the SIM.
Applied Selly's Knead stuff today (great stuff) and waited 1 hour to see how much water was coming and not much. Looks to have slowed it down but a little is still getting through. Will monitor it till I slip it.
Fitted a second Rule Mate 500 bilge pump and plumbed it today through the hull (proud of myself as never done this before) and it worked fine.
I filled the bilge up with sea water after that to test they both work ok on Auto and found they both work but noticed the older Rule Mate 500 pump would not turn off.
This confirmed my suspicion that it's got a problem with it's sensor and stays on and drains the battery. I will replace it as well and test again.
Bloody windy out there today. Hard yakka trying to work on a boat when the wind is bitching.
Have a good one.
The Knead it has to be forced into crevices etc, even underwater.
If you want to use a 12 v system to keep the bilge relatively dry the only switch that will do the job is a Water Witch. They are expensive but are excellent.
www.whitworths.com.au/swch-waterwitch-mini
Don't bother with a Rule float switch or similar they will always fail. I pumped a boat off the bottom last week, 12 ton of water. Boat was left with a float switch 12v system. Float switch probably jammed on with floating debris and flattened the battery.
The Rule mate has an internal electronic level switch, so I dont know if you can fit an external level switch like the Witch, unless there is an option to by-pass the internal switch.
