Old unit Sole Mini 2 (Lombardini 10hp 1 cyl / Ronim gbx) upgraded unit Beta BZ482 2005 build 13.5hp 2 cyl TMC40 gbx appears to be low hours - got for $1.2k. 4 new mounts included. Beta serviced at Taren Pt - excellent. New stern tube hose and clamps Norris UK, gland DH Porter, teflon gland packing, Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 2005 R+D flex coupling re-used, 1 new morse cable, new Ryco 2132UA, Fumoto F101n fuel valve, new water strainer, Matsumoto fuel hand primer and Cooper WZ169 filter. Top installation assistance from nutsnboats.com.au and advice SN Wollongong - great thanks. 18months in the planning, 4 days on slips mid March, first run yesterday went like a top. Water leak out of exhaust exit cast alum tube to exhaust hose connection double clamped - my sloppy clamping with the clamps not 180deg opposed - will fix tomorrow or get heavier duty t bolt ones. Weather delays most annoying.
Hacksaw through 3/4" prop shaft to free old unit
Bearers higher, have to tidy up battery cables and morse cables, replace engine box.
Matsumo hand fuel primer and Cooper filter - primer lever off Beta not there
Beta original panel, new Temu switch panel see if I can tidy up the installation - wood trim?
Temu solar controller
Fumoto fuel valve
Dual gear and throttle lever unit - mistake as per prior post. Will live with and be happy or upgrade down the track after sell some stuff out of shed
Excellent choice of fuel filter. Cooling pipes in rubber would have been better than plastic.
Great thanks. Yes I looked at the cooling pipes long and hard. During the service at Taren Pt they installed the plastic pipes from water pump outlet - I wasn't going to debate that with them as have due respect for the service they did and their experience / knowledge. I will keep an eye on them.
I forgot to mention the CAN-SB antisyphon valve (boatwarehouse) and 1" hose from the exhaust outlet to and from it - also could have got this from there but didn't realise at the time that they stocked all the Mako hoses through the size range. Mako expensive anywhere.
The two highest grief items were the new 75mm length of stern tube hose - wanted to get the 6 laminate US stuff but nightmare - found the Norris UK stuff and it got delivered and I told them it was exhaust hose not multi laminate stern tube hose - of course I was completely wrong it is 5 laminate stern tube hose capable - they sent their suppliers catalogue link with full details - not sure why they don't put that link on their website.
2nd one was the fuel hand primer pump - with the 2005 Beta small lever not there I wanted a decent manual primer pump - bought a supposed diesel suitable one like a primer bulb type for outboards but when I checked with the Canadian supplier they advised it was not and I could use it "at my discretion". So there goes my insurance. Finally found the Matsumo unit and Cooper filter - perfect.
R13
Congrats on the new engine and install.
This is not a knock as I am sure that is not what you need after all that hassle.
A follow up on Ramona's comment on the cooling water hoses.
I have no problem with the material, but the run seems a bit strange.
Is that a joint in the water inlet to the filter? If so a line with no joints would be better.
Is that a kink that has been corrected with a hose clamp on the run from the water filter to the pump inlet?
If not please ignore me. If it is a kink I would re-route the line or fit a plastic elbow.
gary
Nice work, r13. A big job that will hopefully lead to a significant improvement in reliability and speed.
Do you still have the Sole/Lombardini engine and gearbox? I have a friend with a Top Hat 25 (wooden hull) that currently has a very tired Lombardini single cylinder, allegedly from a concrete mixer, driving the propeller through a belt-drive transfer system. It all looks very Heath-Robinson, the boat struggles to make 3 kts, the engine/gearbox/transfer belt gets very hot when modest power is requested and the whole setup is only useful for getting into or out of the berth. The lack of an adequate engine/gearbox/drive is preventing an otherwise enthusiastic preserver of a wooden boat from sailing.
A replacement engine that could be rebuilt and then fitted to the boat might help convince the owner to keep preserving the boat.
Cheers,
Kinora
Select to expand quotegarymalmgren said..
R13
Congrats on the new engine and install.
This is not a knock as I am sure that is not what you need after all that hassle.
A follow up on Ramona's comment on the cooling water hoses.
I have no problem with the material, but the run seems a bit strange.
Is that a joint in the water inlet to the filter? If so a line with no joints would be better.
Is that a kink that has been corrected with a hose clamp on the run from the water filter to the pump inlet?
If not please ignore me. If it is a kink I would re-route the line or fit a plastic elbow.
gary
Great thanks Gary - aka Sherlock Holmes - I will never ignore you. Yes there is a kink in the line from the water strainer outlet to the water pump inlet - it is a very tight bend to get up to the water pump inlet with such a tight diesel installation in a 25fter - there is no joint. Also to get the whole installation into a new engine box / companionway steps module which can be easily removed forward to service the diesel and gbx going fwd for 10yrs - next big job new standing rigging and mast refurb. As you rightly conclude I have tried to keep the line circular as regards inside diameter with extra hose clamps - I need more hose clamps to maybe achieve this but it would become a dogs breakfast - so far better I will cut the line and insert the elbow as you so sagely advise. Again many great thanks Gary regards Rob.
Select to expand quoteKinora said..
Nice work, r13. A big job that will hopefully lead to a significant improvement in reliability and speed.
Do you still have the Sole/Lombardini engine and gearbox? I have a friend with a Top Hat 25 (wooden hull) that currently has a very tired Lombardini single cylinder, allegedly from a concrete mixer, driving the propeller through a belt-drive transfer system. It all looks very Heath-Robinson, the boat struggles to make 3 kts, the engine/gearbox/transfer belt gets very hot when modest power is requested and the whole setup is only useful for getting into or out of the berth. The lack of an adequate engine/gearbox/drive is preventing an otherwise enthusiastic preserver of a wooden boat from sailing.
A replacement engine that could be rebuilt and then fitted to the boat might help convince the owner to keep preserving the boat.
Cheers,
Kinora
Sorry Kinora I sent the old diesel and gbox to the metal recycler..........hope your friend can get a replacement diesel and gbx unit soon. regards Rob
Select to expand quoter13 said..
Great thanks. Yes I looked at the cooling pipes long and hard. During the service at Taren Pt they installed the plastic pipes from water pump outlet - I wasn't going to debate that with them as have due respect for the service they did and their experience / knowledge. I
The plastic hoses will harden and leak eventually and no amount of tightening the hose clamps will help. It's good to see quality SS hose clamps used. Hopefully, you have doubled up on at least the seacock.
Have used Permatex water pump and thermostat housing sealant on the connections I made. Will put rubber ones on down the track. For sure double clamps on both ends of stern tube hose, cooling water seacock barb, exhaust cast alum to exhaust hose - the one which is leaking. Can't fix it today with this wind - unless it reduces later. All clamps 316 nonperforated band type.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..r13 said..
Great thanks. Yes I looked at the cooling pipes long and hard. During the service at Taren Pt they installed the plastic pipes from water pump outlet - I wasn't going to debate that with them as have due respect for the service they did and their experience / knowledge. I
The plastic hoses will harden and leak eventually and no amount of tightening the hose clamps will help. It's good to see quality SS hose clamps used. Hopefully, you have doubled up on at least the seacock.
Put right angle elbow in cw inlet line after strainer under water pump a few weeks ago - started up diesel again today and all fine but the vertical hose run to the water pump inlet was a bit more over to port and the lower pulley of the alternator belt run chaffed nearly through it - there are 3 120deg spaced lugs on the pulley extending fwd off the pulley face which I should have checked and they hit it. Sloppy. No leak but I am going to replace all the clear plastic cw hose with 3/4" Vetus rubber hose as suggested great thanks - which will take the bends without kinking and also put less load on the water strainer outlet. PITA but I should have known well better. The rubber fuel, exhaust and antisyphon hose has cost me an arm and a leg. Cheaper SAE rated fuel line from Supercheapauto is not marine rated due to UV damage potential - which is a bit of a stretch imho but I don't want an insurance problem.
www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/plumbing-sinks-toilets-pumps/hoses-accessories/vetus-cooling-water-hose-per-metre/?sku=VTS-MWHOSE19&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7f3YoYKNiAMVa8oWBR1gSBUfEAQYASABEgIa9vD_BwE
I should have found your and others sage comments in this prior link before
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Raw-water-filter?page=1
Good that winter seems to be over but it's surely going to be a scorching summer - 28deg in the west harbour today.
