Hello All.
Its been awhile since I signed up to Seabreeze...2015 apparently! Anyway, I bit the bullet and after much procrastination and browsing the "for sale" ads I settled on an S&S 30 penned at RPYC in WA. As with any "new" investment I have a few smallish jobs to carry out to make her all shiny. The previous owner has done an awesome job of looking after her.. she has a new motor, new sails and newish rig so I am extremely happy with my purchase ( plus the missus loves her too!)The one thing I am not too sure about is the state of the seacock below. I am told its probably the original on from the 1983 build. Being a bit of a newb in terms of maintenance, I am not sure what to measure up/order and where to order from in Aus( looking for Bronze replacement). Does anyone have any experience in these matters and/or knowledge of the size of the original fittings on the S&S build of the 80s? I am very keen to do/learn all I can and am happy to get my hands dirty (but I dont want to drown!).
Any help would be gratefully received.
Fine choice of vessel. I'm guessing it's a long cabin Swarbrick SS30. That's just a cheap ball valve. I would suggest replacing it with one of the new SS varieties now available. The skin fitting looks bronze so should be fine. Just make sure you have a quality rubber hose on the tail and two hose clips.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Fine choice of vessel. I'm guessing it's a long cabin Swarbrick SS30. That's just a cheap ball valve. I would suggest replacing it with one of the new SS varieties now available. The skin fitting looks bronze so should be fine. Just make sure you have a quality rubber hose on the tail and two hose clips.
So, just replace the ball valve(and not the thru hull)? Can this be done in the water by bunging the intake (going for a swim)? Do you have any idea what the size would be..it looks like theres a 1/8 on the side of the valve in the picture? Can you recommend a good supplier? Would there be a big risk of snapping the thru hull looking at the condition?
Thanks for the feedback.
I have replaced a few seacocks from inside while floating. I guess if you can budge the thread it will be possible. Best thing would be to clean it all up with wire wheel and inspect, if seacock and skin fitting is still in a reasonable condition with a wood plug you can remove and replace the seacock for peace of mind without having to slip your new boat.
Step one = clean it up. Wire brush and or wire wheel. Step two WD40 3-4 times in a week. You need to be able to get a spanner/shifter right onto the boat hru hull nut and hold it still so when you start to get undo the ball valve, it doesn't turn the thru hull fitting in situ and break its seal. Once you've confirmed you can unscrew the bell valve while keeping the thru hull fitting stable, fit the wooden plug or what ever and do the swap.
Also useful to ensure the hose fitting comes off smoothly (Do this first!) and consider replacing the intake hose totally, as deteriorating hose is a cheap and important fix.
Rather than put put too much spanner tension on the thru hull trying to loosen the ball valve, I've used a small grinding wheel on a drill to cut away at the ball valve external to the thread. Amazing if you cut away half the wall, the remainder cracks as soon as you put a spanner on it, the tensions off, and it'll unscrew by hand. Of course, it all depends on how adventurous you're willing to be while your boats in the water...
I suggest replacing the skin fitting and the sea cock with both being the same metal. Either stainless (pay for the best grade and quality) or bronze (again best grade and quality).
The same or a larger diameter size is the go. Reducers can bring it down to the pump inlet size.
This is an important part of the boat that ensures the air stays in the boat and the water stays out of the boat.
Spending on first class and top quality is a good strategy in this case.
From your photos it looks like there has been a leak before which has been temporarily repaired with some resin.
Slip the boat and refit the skin fitting and sea cock with new and you will KNOW that you have done it right and that it will be good for at least the next five years.
If you are serious about your yacht you should know every inch of it from laying your hands on every part of it from the bottom of the keel to the top of the mast and from the bow roller to the stern most point of her.
For me, nothing less is acceptable.
I have changed a few in the water but they were much larger and there was much more excitement involved. I agree with Cisco mostly. This will only be about a half inch valve. Putting a spanner on the backing nut and turning the body of the valve will probably be all that's needed. The flange of the skin fitting would most likely have at least mastic to seal it and this will stop it turning. It would be a BSP thread and an off the shelf cap would seal it off.
However looking at your photo the handle is just mild steel but the ball will be SS in a nylon sleeve in a bronze body. I can see no real reason to change it. Slop on some rust converter on the handle. Change it out at your leisure next time your on the slips.
I would suggest checking the rubber hose off the tail. Make sure this is a quality piece of rubber and use two good quality clips. In the highly unlikely event of the valve failing the ships security is all down to the rubber hose and clips.
