Fleming Windvane

Hi Everyone,
I am a newbie to this interesting and informative site. I have a Duncanson 29 yacht and I would like to fit a used Fleming Windvane to my boat. I have read the Fleming Global Minor 301, would be the best model for my size boat. Is there anyone that knows of one available for sale. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

I had a 401 on Morning Bird, a bigger yacht than your Dunc.
It was great but the later versions are better in light winds. I'd go with Ramona's advice, get the newer versions. It will cost a few thousands more but the performance will mean better sailing.

Hi Kankama,
Thanks for your input,the facebook link did not lead to any information? What were you conveying?
Thanks.

Search Facebook marketplace for

Darrell Veivers Cairns Monitor Windvane

I can't get the link to copy across.

It needs some TLC but he only wants $300 for it

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..
The Global minor might be a bit heavy for a Duncanson 29. There are a few around, my mate just sold one a few weeks ago when he updated to an Aries. The Aries might be a bit heavy too even though they are mostly alloy. I used one on my Currawong 30 and now have the same unit on my SS34.
If your set on buying a Fleming then buy the later version. They tend to be more expensive but are far better than the early versions.
www.ftp.tognews.com/Projects/Windvanes/Fleming_Windvane_Manuals/manual%20master_global%20equip%20301%20from%2021_4_2009.pdf
I personally would recommend the Aries. It's easier to use. The other alternative is to build your own. They are cheap to build but are extremely labour intensive.

The other option is to master the dark art of 'sheet to tiller' steering. There are loads of videos on how to do it on youtube, and the key seems to be that you learn to use different set-ups for different tacks; plus you have to vary the amount of spring in the bungee chord sections depending on wind strength. For downwind, the jib seems to be the most common 'wind vane' sail, and for beam reach through to close reach, the main seems to be best - see, for example, here
I have the mounting for a Hyrdrovane on the back of my Nimble 30, but after watching a few sheet-to-tiller tutorials I'm going to have a go at that first before spending thousands on a windvane.
The third option, which the Free Range Sailing couple used, is an electric tiller-pilot used to push/pull the self steering gear - i.e. they tend not to use the big wind-paddle thingy, but by using their Simrad tiller pilot on the wind-vane gear, they gain a mechanical advantage that results in a lot less electricity being used.

which is a trim tab system on a 28foot trailerable boat.
I have perhaps 15 scans from magazines of windvanes that the authors have made. Be a bit more specific and just ask, drop an email address in the PM and I'll have a look.

Select to expand quote

julesmoto said..



A labor-intensive boat related but at home project might be just the ticket for this Lockdown. Don't suppose you or anyone else has a link which has fairly detailed drawings or video of a hydrovane style unit (independent of existing steering) such as is described in the attached drawing from another forum?

Don't bother with any other self steering gear than a servo assist self steering gear. Even on a light weight trailer sailer. The hydrovane is not servo assisted and uses a rudder to steer the yacht with the boats rudder fixed. If you have a lathe or a pensioner friend with one then go straight to a design with bevel gears, this gives automatic feedback and there is no zig zagging. If you have limited tools and funds then search out one of the Walt Murray designs. These are servo vanes but use a Z crank instead of the bevel gears. The early designs like the 20-20 could be built for $20. That's $20 for the plastic pipes and the rest is supposed to be stuff laying about in your workshop. My first one I built from plastic pipe and stainless that was just laying about the workshop.



The Z crank can be seen here and it slides though that grey plastic block. The oar rotates vertically on gudgeon and pintles. It rotates horizontally on the shaft that is part of the Z crank on plastic blocks. This style steers well but there is a lot of fiddling with the Zcrank and the plastic block to get good feedback. If you can, go straight to a bevel gear design. The Hydrovane uses a Z crank too hidden in that cetre section with a lever for 3 settings.
Walt Murray passed away years ago but you can find some of his drawings on this site. windvaneselfsteering.com/
You will have to hunt about for them though. There are also drawings for Jan Alkema Up side down vane there as well. Mister Vee uses his design. Jan has a good design too that acts directly on a stern hung rudder.
This is another shot of this earlier vane and the Z crank is easier to see.




The first shot is the vane when I took it off my 26 foot quarter tonner. The second one is with an alteration to the leverage ratio and a longer oar blade.