For those who read an earlier post, I'm pretty sure we settled on the Holland 25. The boat needs work and is bare fibreglass in the cabin, which would get a bit warm in the sun and cold in winter. Is there a generic material and glue for insulation?
Frank
Select to expand quoteSunsetSailer said..
Front runner. Google it
This is my 1/4 tonner lined
each to their own. there is no way i would use front runner. just picture filthy carpet.
Select to expand quoteFrank101 said..
For those who read an earlier post, I'm pretty sure we settled on the Holland 25. The boat needs work and is bare fibreglass in the cabin, which would get a bit warm in the sun and cold in winter. Is there a generic material and glue for insulation?
Frank
A 25 foot fibreglass yacht will be hot inside in summer no matter what insulation it has. Most of the insulation in small boats will be for noise reduction not heat. Best bet is to install several air vents in the cabin and a vent near the stern to allow air to exit while the boat is on the mooring. A decent opening forward hatch will be better than any insulation. Hopefully the Holland 25 cockpit is long enough to sleep on. That's where you will be on a hot summers night anywhere North of Tasmania.
My boat has a 12mm timber deckhead with about 30mm air space. Cabin sides are 12mm melamine. Saloon sides are cork. Hull around the quarter berths are 10mm sponge that has been painted with flat white paint. Still hot in summer.
In the main saloon I have 4 of these.
www.whitworths.com.au/vent-genuine-seabird
Another one in the head and another dome one that does not work so well.
For a Holland 25 I would suggest just gloss white paint to keep the maximum headroom and make it look cool. Stitch up a shade sail to be erected just above the cabin whilst at anchor. Seabird vents on the cabin top.
Hey Frank
I spent 2 weeks scaping and cleaning up after 30-year-old smelly carpet from my H28. No fun at all removing all that shiz.
I would recommend painting as is an easy wipe down for a 30 footer if i gets a bit wet and always looks clean after a wipe down. Improved ventilation is the answer. I had some interprotect bottom paint left over so I put 3 coats on. The pics are before and after one coat of interprotect. It looks bullet proof after 3 coats.
Cheers Scott
Hi Frank
if you want to go retro my 1984 Sailmaster has white shag pile carpet which surprisingly still looks as good as new apart from the odd bubble where I assume the glue has let go
Regards Don
I've had two yachts with grey frontrunner, been happy with both & will clean easy if required. Not sure what the supply is like now as Melded fabrics changed business status. Turns bare glass into comfort in a hurry, best use clear sprayable heat resistant contact and have very very good ventilation.
Jeff.
Also foam backed vinyl should be taken into consideration, I have been searching for a sticky back product but so far can only find 5mm sticky back insulated foam , so the vinyl would still need to be stuck onto the foam first using quickgrip adhesive.
Select to expand quoteAnyone tried something like this in a boat ?
PE with aluminum and self-adhesive Covered with Alumium Shield 10mm thickness, lightweight, excellent noise and thermal insulator, flame retardant and easy to work with , just peel and stick.
I use something similar in my car under the roof and in the engine bay, maybe not as pretty as plush carpet but has better heat and noise insulation properties and is easy to keep clean . I used reinforced foil tape to join the pieces together to stop any water but or dust getting trapped along the joints and had no issues with it for the past 4 years since I had it installed, in the engine bay will even take the hose to it when I clean the engine. A can of matt spray paint would take care of any glare on the walls.
Hi Harb
I can see the advantages of the foil on foam but as a cabin headliner it looks a bit agricultural to me
Regards Don
