The heat exchanger on my diesel is corroded to the point the o rings won't seal and it leaks.
I have heard of people having their repaired (welded and machined).
Does anyone know of a place that does this?
Stephen
Try John here - if he doesn't want to do it he probably knows someone who will
www.wm-diesel.com/
Guess you have costed a new one if it is available?
Heat exchangers are a lot less costly nowdays
maybe buy a new one and if passage making buy a spare as well it at least repair the old one
Rebuilt spares are always good!
Saves downtime .
Select to expand quoteMadmouse said..
The heat exchanger on my diesel is corroded to the point the o rings won't seal and it leaks.
I have heard of people having their repaired (welded and machined).
Does anyone know of a place that does this?
Stephen
Is it steel or alloy? Both can be welded and machined. If it's alloy and corroded an easy fix is to clean up the area and etch the surface with an acid like Metal Gleam. Build up the area with JB Weld. File the shape or make a mold with masking tape. If you want to spend more money consider a titanium putty.
Madmouse consider this as an option if your engine is suitable and the parts are super expensive. Convert it to raw water cooled so you dont need heat exchanger, circulation pump etc.
I spent months trying to get my Volvo 2003 cooling system working properly by rebuilding and fixing including stripping and re-building its heat exchanger and coolant pump. Eventually gave up and decided to buy all new parts. Nothing ever fitted, or worked and I wasted huge time. But instead need $5K to buy the parts new!
After researching I found my engine had a raw water version but with different plumbing and an anode fitted to counter corrosion. So I converted the engine into the raw water cooled version. Threw away the heat exchanger, coolant pump and re-routed the plumbing. Saved $5K. The engine runs cooler and more power not dragging along the circulation cooling pump system.
If you get stuck and your engine can be raw water cooled that might be a solution.
Select to expand quoteTrek said..
Madmouse consider this as an option if your engine is suitable and the parts are super expensive. Convert it to raw water cooled so you dont need heat exchanger, circulation pump etc.
I spent months trying to get my Volvo 2003 cooling system working properly by rebuilding and fixing including stripping and re-building its heat exchanger and coolant pump. Eventually gave up and decided to buy all new parts. Nothing ever fitted, or worked and I wasted huge time. But instead need $5K to buy the parts new!
After researching I found my engine had a raw water version but with different plumbing and an anode fitted to counter corrosion. So I converted the engine into the raw water cooled version. Threw away the heat exchanger, coolant pump and re-routed the plumbing. Saved $5K. The engine runs cooler and more power not dragging along the circulation cooling pump system.
If you get stuck and your engine can be raw water cooled that might be a solution.
Do not do this ever.
it worked with a Volvo 2003 as there was always a raw water version and the block is not alloy
if a modern industrial diesel marinized the block and head are not designed for it
nothing more corrosive than hot salt water
Select to expand quotelydia said..Trek said..
Madmouse consider this as an option if your engine is suitable and the parts are super expensive. Convert it to raw water cooled so you dont need heat exchanger, circulation pump etc.
I spent months trying to get my Volvo 2003 cooling system working properly by rebuilding and fixing including stripping and re-building its heat exchanger and coolant pump. Eventually gave up and decided to buy all new parts. Nothing ever fitted, or worked and I wasted huge time. But instead need $5K to buy the parts new!
After researching I found my engine had a raw water version but with different plumbing and an anode fitted to counter corrosion. So I converted the engine into the raw water cooled version. Threw away the heat exchanger, coolant pump and re-routed the plumbing. Saved $5K. The engine runs cooler and more power not dragging along the circulation cooling pump system.
If you get stuck and your engine can be raw water cooled that might be a solution.
Do not do this ever.
it worked with a Volvo 2003 as there was always a raw water version and the block is not alloy
if a modern industrial diesel marinized the block and head are not designed for it
nothing more corrosive than hot salt water
That's why I said twice, if your engine is suitable. Even the famous Yanmar have raw water cooled versions with very long life. As long as you keep the anodes fresh.
Its interesting that the latest model Mercruiser Stern Drives with amazing modern light weight alloy engines are raw water cooled.
Heres one. www.hitechmarine.com.au/listing/mercruiser-sterndrive-3-0l-mpi/
I wouldnt put it on a sailing boat though!
I thought id jump on this thread instead of making a new one.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my Kubota s2800 (6 cylinder) & a part of this is rebuilding/ stripping the heat exchanger - its a copper nest coolant one (I'm learning) and the outgoing mixing elbow is corroded and needs replacing/ built.
It was suggested to me that the setup of the hoses to the water lock needs to be rerouted.
Can anyone suggest the ideal set up e.g. water lock below waterline/ exhaust hose rising above waterline and back down etc. I'd really like to get this right first time.
Select to expand quoteTrek said..
Madmouse consider this as an option if your engine is suitable and the parts are super expensive. Convert it to raw water cooled so you dont need heat exchanger, circulation pump etc.
I spent months trying to get my Volvo 2003 cooling system working properly by rebuilding and fixing including stripping and re-building its heat exchanger and coolant pump. Eventually gave up and decided to buy all new parts. Nothing ever fitted, or worked and I wasted huge time. But instead need $5K to buy the parts new!
After researching I found my engine had a raw water version but with different plumbing and an anode fitted to counter corrosion. So I converted the engine into the raw water cooled version. Threw away the heat exchanger, coolant pump and re-routed the plumbing. Saved $5K. The engine runs cooler and more power not dragging along the circulation cooling pump system.
If you get stuck and your engine can be raw water cooled that might be a solution.
Yep that is what was done to my boat Bukh 24
Select to expand quotegazer10 said..
I thought id jump on this thread instead of making a new one.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my Kubota s2800 (6 cylinder) & a part of this is rebuilding/ stripping the heat exchanger - its a copper nest coolant one (I'm learning) and the outgoing mixing elbow is corroded and needs replacing/ built.
It was suggested to me that the setup of the hoses to the water lock needs to be rerouted.
Can anyone suggest the ideal set up e.g. water lock below waterline/ exhaust hose rising above waterline and back down etc. I'd really like to get this right first time.
Best bet is to find a manual for Volvo marine engine installation or search Youtube. Don't worry about the brand, the routine is the same for all. That exhaust elbow looks like it is copper. The exhaust elbow is a consumable and will have to be replaced every few years depending on the material. There is cool saltwater mixing with hot exhaust gases at that point and that's corrosive. Stainless will last longer than copper.
Just to close my story off..l bought a brand new HE from Nanni. I then painted it blue and had it fitted. That was over a year ago and a trip to Flinders Island. Fingers crossed. Keen to get the old one refurbished.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..gazer10 said..
I thought id jump on this thread instead of making a new one.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my Kubota s2800 (6 cylinder) & a part of this is rebuilding/ stripping the heat exchanger - its a copper nest coolant one (I'm learning) and the outgoing mixing elbow is corroded and needs replacing/ built.
It was suggested to me that the setup of the hoses to the water lock needs to be rerouted.
Can anyone suggest the ideal set up e.g. water lock below waterline/ exhaust hose rising above waterline and back down etc. I'd really like to get this right first time.
Best bet is to find a manual for Volvo marine engine installation or search Youtube. Don't worry about the brand, the routine is the same for all. That exhaust elbow looks like it is copper. The exhaust elbow is a consumable and will have to be replaced every few years depending on the material. There is cool saltwater mixing with hot exhaust gases at that point and that's corrosive. Stainless will last longer than copper.
Cheers Ramona, Ill get searching - guessing ill have to have a mixing elbow fabricated up with the plate to the heat exchanger. Will definitely be going down the stainless path
