I inspected a yacht recently. Was very happy with it except for an excessive amount of water coming through the stern gland. It seems the shaft is worn. I negotiated a reduced price with the expectation that I might be up for a new shaft.
What is a ball-park cost of having the shaft replaced in Australia? (It's 1" shaft on a 31 footer. 20HP Bukh. Not sure of the shaft length, but it's a fin keel, tiller steer with P bracket. Photo attached.)
I reckon I'll get the cutlass bearing replaced at the same time, and maybe the prop (it's a pretty worn simple folding prop).
I wouldn't mind having a go at it myself, but I live almost 200km from the boat's current location, and I'm not happy sailing her home in its current condition.
12 years ago it cost me $1,400 to replace a propshaft on a UFO 34. This was complete, including parts, labour and new bearing.
In 2010 it cost me $1375 for a new shaft, bearing and gland on my S&S34. New Gori 2 bladed folding prop $860 in 2012. Shaft was about 8ft long so pretty long.
I did a shaft in 2019 and the above prices are in the ballpark!
Just remember you should replace your Polyflex bearing, between shaft and gearbox,
if you have one, as there has to be a cause for the shaft wearing.
Polyflex bearings should be replaced every 3-5 years as the work harden.
1 " dia shaft in 316 stainless will cost approximately $45 per m. Machining cost can vary but it is a pretty simple straight forward job and can be done on most lathes with a 1"or greater spindle bore, the last one I did I charged the guy $150 for the machining.
Much depends on what sort of stern gland you have and what part of the planet you reside. The stern gland might need repacking if that's the sort you have or if it's a dripless system that might be the cause of the leak. Dripless seals don't last forever. I would just sail the boat home and then if you live near Sydney pull the shaft and take the lot into Porters and let them decide. Take the prop too for a tune up.
Lucky you if it's a traditional stuffing box stern gland. You may be able to move the gland or shaft slightly so that the packing will bear on an unworn section of the shaft. But first step might be to adjust the gland and see what happens, and if that doesn't work replace the packing which might fix your problem or at least ameliorate it so you have time to figure out step B. Repacking can quite safely be done in the water, despite the horror scenarios some will dream up, but you do need to know what you're doing. Sounds like a bit of mucking around, but a lot less work than a shaft replacement. My comments are offered in total ignorance of your situation other than your words on the screen, so as the kids say "ymmv".
Cheers, Graeme
I agree with Graeme, if it's the traditional stuffing box a quick investigation might solve the problem. I have the same on my yacht. My fishing vessel had the same as well but much larger of course. These will usually drip and in a workboat where you are onboard each day this is not a problem. Yachts with a shallow bilge owners tend to not want them to drip and will tighten the gland and maybe squirt some grease into the gland each day before they leave the boat if it has the appropriate fitting. I would suggest checking that the water is not entering the boat from the flange end of the stuffing box. The flange is threaded onto the stern tube and there can be leaks from there if the bronze tube "corrodes". It's most likely however that this stuffing box just needs repacking. Check Youtube for instructional videos. Best to pull the stuffing box apart to get the correct size packing and when you buy new packing ensure you get teflon. There is unlikely to be much shaft wear unless it's been packed with the black graphite packing.
Years ago I lusted after a tiller steered Nantucket but they were always out of my reach. They are good value now.