Red Witch Build

Its Official the hull is finished being painted

going to give it a few days then start on the cutting and polishing.


Cleaning the window frames is taking for ever, one set done one to go. any idea what to finish them with? paint? etc

Ok so here's the window frames covered in crudd before i started

Crudd cleaned off using turps and elbow Grease

Window Frames painted and in, new perspex cut, just held in place with rubber temporarily waiting for the glue to set

No where in town seemed to sell the correct rubber profile for the windows so ive used silicon and cut a 45° into it to make it look neat

Must admit pretty happy with the end product, i have also put white silicon between the frame and the hull, i will also be running a bead around on the inside to make sure its weather proof.


Tomorrow ill be attacking the other side.
Taking a while its a bit warm/humid currently :(

Thanks Sands

its one of those things were your like i hope i never need this to be waterproof but its surprising how the weather will force water in anywhere it can.

Started on my Pinstripes
It is actually a nice deep red the photos just a bit crap (was sunset)

the is the first line the second line will be 15mm bellow it. So the pattern will go starting from the Gunnel 70mm gap, 10mm red 15mm gap 20mm red.

I feel like its starting to finally get close to being finished, hopefully not long now till she gets wet ;P

Well made a good start on removing all deck hardware....... theres a lot more than i thought.
few things need replacing but most is in workable condition. the main sheet and running track will be having a re-design to setup up for casual sailing not "who knows wtf the last guy was doing"

any recommendations on good cam cleats? need about 7 new ones.

Those window look great Stuman

Just found this site after following the google image link to your window frames.
I'm basically doing the same thing you do but on a Red Baron, I'm currently working on the rudders. Your side frames look like they have the same profile I have on my front window in which it is a profile used on the old Millard caravans. I've got mine online from here www.caravansplus.com.au/glazing-rubber-wedge-very-early-millard-alfab-per-metre-p-3477.html?products_id=3477

I haven't used it yet as I'm still trying to decide if I should paint the frame or leave it as it is as I'm worried it will peel off in a year or so and have to do it again. If I was to paint it I was thinking of using VHT Flame as it doesn't need a primer and I can bake it in the BBQ to cure it.

What paint did you use for the window frames ?

cheers,
Harry

That's funny. I was looking at getting a Red Witch originally but went with the Baron because of the shallow water in the Peel Inlet.
I did look at using Aluminium color VHT Wheel paint at first but apparently they stopped making it and looked at VHT Flame because I already had a can on the shelf. Luckily I did not hit the frames with the wire buff wheel so the anodised surface was still ok so after a bit more cleaning and a bit of Autosol anodising polish I decided to leave it alone for now as the only markings I couldn't clean up are around the screw holes but since I've gone up from 4 to 5mm the larger screw heads should cover most of that. Still have to cut the perspex but will post a pic of it when is all installed.

The side windows were easier , for some reason on the Baron they used rubber side windows and that was good except for the filler strip which has started to crack up. Couldn't find the filler strip locally so I put back the old filler strip and as it usually happens I found the exact replacement part the next day. I'll have to do that at a latter stage but just in case someone else looks for it you can get them at www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=4 and even have a choice of filler strip colors.

Btw, your project seems to be moving along nicely.

+1 for Ronstan


What do you want the cam cleats for Stuman ?

Arnolds has some nice blocks with cleats on sale, also check out the new profile Riley cam cleat

http://www.arnoldsboatshop.com.au/sailing-hardware-cleats-and-stoppers-medium-cam-cleats-medium-clam-cleat-rm165/dp/3246

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..


10 coats! So basically 10 days to paint a tiller. I would say that's a little sad except I used to have the same problem!

Actually 10 coats is the minimum number of coats recommended by the manufacturer for semi-tropical areas .

Personally I'd use a 2 pack polyurethane like Northane Clear Gloss , put 2-3 coats and don't touch it again for at least 10 years.

Crikey I go away for work and this place gets busy,

Harb
Any chance you can drop a link to your build thread?

questions going everywhere!

regarding the cleats, I'd just stump up for Ronstan by default.
They have credited my mainsheet block system recently after I found it had a recall issued a few years ago.
I thought i'd try my luck, and a few emails had it replaced, I upgraded to a newer version, so I can't complain about after sales support.


If your on a budget, I've wondered if anyone has tried the Masters range that's been around on ebay for a while?:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/35mm-Single-Swivel-Shackle-Fiddle-Angle-Fairlead-Cleat-Block-Master-BP-3521FE-/261858892022?hash=item3cf80198f6:g:cOoAAOSwqu9VNLmx

Maybe theres something there for you Stuman?

Select to expand quote

Stuman92 said..
Harb
Any chance you can drop a link to your build thread?

Don't have a build thread STuman, I was only going to give it just a quick paint job originally but that was 2 years ago.
I'll put one up when I finish the job put basically its what you did only I built a new trailer from scratch , removed the gelcoat and replaced it with epoxy and cloth, reinforced everything including seats and cockpit, modified the keels and flotation chambers and filled them with nearly 1000 Ltrs of closed cell foam, ended the engine well, hinged the hatch and painted in and out with 2 pack. Now just finishing the new rudders and then I have to pull apart the mast and rebuild it.

Maybe will even get to sail it one day.

Select to expand quote

Stuman92 said..

Herb, Yeah when i got the red witch i thought it was just going to take a month or so to freshen up..............
Sounds like your doing awesome work, how come you filled the Buoyancy tanks with foam? Im about to start on my mast, its in pretty good nick just needs a clean and replacing the running lines.

I was more optimistic then you, I was working on just 2 weeks to have it done. Then I found a small crack in the paint on the botton of the keel and behind that a patch of soft fibreglass so I decided to dig around to find the cause which turned out to be the corroded aluminium tube used for reinforcing the bottom. Next thing I knew I was removing the gel coat below the waterline and reinforcing and reshaping the keels then I just had to go back to bare fibreglass and reinforce the whole boat.

When I was poking at the crack in keel with my divining rod I striked water in what was part of the buoyancy tank. I've seen boats where people used empty plastic bottles , polystyrene bits and all kinds of stuff to keep the boat afloat in case of hull damage which is a good idea but I decided to reline the inside of the tanks with epoxy and glass cloth and then fill it with closed cell foam which also strengthen the hulls. The boat is at least 30 kilos heavier but its low down in the hulls and won't have to worry about being swamped by a wave, running into submerged containers or a reef when sailing at night. Was thinking to test it when its all finished and see how it floats with the cabin full of water then fit a couple of self draining plugs above the waterline , make the cabin self draining too.

You planing to remove the fitting on the mast to check for corrosion under them and fill up any unused holes and then clean it or just give it a polish with the fittings still on ? I had a quick look on mine and it does have a bit of corrosion starting up where the clevis pin on one of the tangs was touching the mast so I'll be removing everything and make sure its done properly. Would have had to replace a few pop rivets anyway as they were not monel rivets.