Hi All,
I've decided to change the windows on my boat, the one over the chart table is dripping the worst I've tried using sealer but it wasn't a success, the smaller ones forward are also dripping, the one over the toilet I can live with but but the one dripping in the V berth is a pain.
Looking at the perspex closeup through the window it looks to me to be about 4/5mm, what would have been the standard size back in the 80s?
I have toyed with the idea of getting rid of the aluminum trim and bolting the new window direct to the outside, but I have decided the stick with the existing trim a maybe go for a slightly tinted perspex/acrylic and 6 or 8mm product.
Have any here done a job like this on your boat? I'm after some ideas
Cheers
Bill
I tried to attach a photo but the thing won't send!!!!
Select to expand quotePropwalk said..
Hi All,
I've decided to change the windows on my boat, the one over the chart table is dripping the worst I've tried using sealer but it wasn't a success, the smaller ones forward are also dripping, the one over the toilet I can live with but but the one dripping in the V berth is a pain.
Looking at the perspex closeup through the window it looks to me to be about 4/5mm, what would have been the standard size back in the 80s?
I have toyed with the idea of getting rid of the aluminum trim and bolting the new window direct to the outside, but I have decided the stick with the existing trim a maybe go for a slightly tinted perspex/acrylic and 6 or 8mm product.
Have any here done a job like this on your boat? I'm after some ideas
Cheers
Bill
I tried to attach a photo but the thing won't send!!!!
Hi propwalk I had the same problem with the windows on my boat, I could not find a replacement rubber seal so I chucked the old seals and used silastick made up a radius tool to make it look good on the edges and made sure it was worked right down into the edge of the frame . catch you later.jm
Hi prop there is a place in Melbourne that has two sizes of the rubber insert one is 15 mm the other is a little smaller from memory .
I can find out the address if you want
Some acrylic suppliers will use your old window as a template and cut you a new one
Alison there is some more uv material to choose from these days
Have a read of this little article, it may be the answer top your problem.
www.thecoastalpassage.com.au/windows.html
God knows not much else is worth reading in The Coastal Passage
Thank all, thanks Hg02 I live on the sunshine coast QLD I'll look at one of the local suppliers and do what you suggest and take the old windows with me.
Bill
I replaced my windows and used the sealant referred to on the Coastal Passage and also in a Cruising Helmsman article from last year. Its not available in the marine stores. Look online at electrical suppliers etc.
The sealant I used was Dow Corning 561-160, ordered from rs components on line.
Make sure you drill the holes over size in the perspex or your material of choice so any expansion won't cause cracks around the holes.
I cut the perspex using a new blade on a jigsaw no problem.
12 months on and no leaks and all is good.
Select to expand quotePropwalk said..
The windows I'm replacing.
same as mine ....... stopped mine from leaking ,no probs .... took off flat plate inside ... silicon in gap between window and fiberglass , put plate back on .
pull rubber out from external , replace with black silicon . jobs done all good been two years now ,still good .
Went a saw Bob Dylan tonight down at the Palais in St Kilda got home late
this height measuremnt goes with the rear window which is the top photo
the above photo is the forward port light height
other end of the rear port light
These are original Walker H28 port lights I had cut out of UV resistant Lexan Yours are probably different but thought Id put them up for you
Thanks HG02.
Mine measure 950 front to back and 195 high. How thick should the glass be??
Roughly around 6mm I'll check to night
Yours, as there longer maybe thicker
I was recommended Lexan mine had uv resistance
I am buying a sheet of 9.5 or 10mm polycarbonate (either lexan or another similar product) to replace mine in the next couple of weeks. There will probably be enough to do yours if you want to go halves.
Andy
Two windows each side x at least 1m x 200mm per window. What size are the sheets? Also 4 smaller bits for the forward port lights.
Are you near the sunshine coast? If you have enough to do both boats splitting would be the go.
Bill
Select to expand quotePropwalk said..
Two windows each side x at least 1m x 200mm per window. What size are the sheets? Also 4 smaller bits for the forward port lights.
Are you near the sunshine coast? If you have enough to do both boats splitting would be the go.
Bill
Hi Propwalk
The sheet is 2400mm by 1200mm comes in clear or light grey tint. Still getting prices and they vary a lot but between $300 to $500. The only thing is I need the extra strength of the 9.5mm whereas many people would say 6mm lexan is strong enough.
Go with the light tint, do not get a dark tint as it will be to dark inside.
I have the Lexan in the light tint, beautiful 
Select to expand quotenswsailor said..
Go with the light tint, do not get a dark tint as it will be to dark inside.
I have the Lexan in the light tint, beautiful
yeah I like the lighter tints. Would really love a light green but I think light grey is the only option
Andy, let me know how you get on with the perspex/lexan, I think the tint would be the way to go. The one sheet should do both jobs.
I still haven't decided whether to use the existing trim or go straight on to the outside with double sided tape and sealer.
Bill
Hi propwalk
I live on Sunshine Coast too and asked about where to source window replacement material when I was talking to one of the guys at Lawrie's yard. They said to go to somewhere on Sugar Road behind where the tool shop is - across the road from the Ford dealership. Sorry haven't got the actual name of the business - may be worth a look.
Thanks papabear I know where that is, I take my car there for my auto gas service. My boat is at Lawries marina.
Select to expand quotePropwalk said..
Andy, let me know how you get on with the perspex/lexan, I think the tint would be the way to go. The one sheet should do both jobs.
I still haven't decided whether to use the existing trim or go straight on to the outside with double sided tape and sealer.
Bill
Ok Bill will keep you posted. I will be away next week and will probably buy a sheet in the second week of September.
Having had tinted ports in the past, I'm now for clear windows - why? I like to see the real colour of the sky. You can get a sense of when it's close to start raining from the sky colour temperature; you can see real colours of sunsets and sunrises. I use a curtain when I want to block the sun out.
Select to expand quoteKarsten said..
Having had tinted ports in the past, I'm now for clear windows - why? I like to see the real colour of the sky. You can get a sense of when it's close to start raining from the sky colour temperature; you can see real colours of sunsets and sunrises. I use a curtain when I want to block the sun out.
Thanks for your input Karsten. Once the windows go in that will be it for another 30years. You can always tint clears but you cant untint tinted lexan. I think I just convinced myself to go clear
I've decided not to go ahead changing the perspex, I removed the flat aluminum on the inside and removed the screws of the trim on the outside but could not remove the window without wreaking the boat. I've decided to go with SandS idea and replace the rubber with sealer and sealer on the inside under the trim.
Thanks for the input.
Bill
