I am about to replace the standing rigging on my SpaceSailer 20.
The existing side stays terminate at the mast with a sawged eye and thimble into a tang with a clevis type pin - Thats what it looks like from the deck.
Termination at the deck is a swaged eye and thimble onto a simple turnbuckle for adjustment.
The quote I have for replacement has been to change the termination at the deck for an all in one turnbuckle that will go directly onto the chainplate fitting on the deck. The rigger doesn't seem keen on the swaged eye arrangement, however to change over will need me to do something different on the mast as well.
The existing system of swaged eyes would be approx 20 years old and hasn't failed so far, I understand the issues of wire fatigue around the eye and swage, but the rig is really small - mast height about 5.5m.
Do I really need to change to a more expensive set up?
Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
When using terminations with an thimble, eye and swage you loose strength in the wire. You would also need to use 7x7 wire instead of 1x19 as it is flexible enough to bend around a thimble. The thimble should be of the solid type so it wont deform under stress. Consider going up a size in wire to help counter the loss of strength from the bend and different wire type. Ensure you use a toggle on the turnbuckle / chainplate connection. I would replacing all your turnbuckles if they are also 20 years old. Have a look at Sta-Lok termination fittings as it is a DIY solution and allows you to use 1x19 316 stainless wire. They are easy to use and have a very good reputation. They are a bit expensive though you save not paying a rigger. The fittings are re-usable with only a new wedge required. In Australia I get them from Harbourside Chandlers at Coffs Harbour. Hope all goes well for you.
Have you tried Andrew at Rope Solutions for a quote. He is a younger rigger but has a really good appreciation for the reality of what is needed. His contact number is 0439 734 394
All riggers will quote to replace the tang attachments at the mast as these are a common weak point and the replacement of the rigging screws is to save a lot of time as it is common for the old ones to seize up. Most common and cheapest rigging screws now have the wire coming straight to the turnbuckle with the threaded end swaged onto the wire.
Your alternative, the wire, thimbles and swages are all available at the local chandlery, take the old wires in and replace like for like. You will need to do the labour yourself and make sure you get a can of innox for the old rigging screws while you are there.
Thanks for the info. I have Rope Solutions to complete the job. Thanks for the recommendation.
Looking forward to having the rig secure and being able to push the boat a bit harder.
I don't quite see what all the fuss was about, if the original thimble and swage rigging has already lasted 20 years why not replace with what was there. even allowing for a slight reduction in wire strength on a 5.5 metre mast I doubt you will ever over-stress the rigging. I would have just gone like for like, after all the manufacturer thought it ok, why don't you.
I have to agree there LooseChange.
The Norseman/Staloc type terminals are great. No need for expensive rigging shop swages. Riggers will always try to throw some doubt on their reliability but Staloc terminals carry Lloyds certification.
Also the open bodied turn buckles are good strong stuff (the ones in the picture I mean. Not so sure about the new ones you can buy today.). You can see exactly how much thread adjustment there is left and you can see what the thread condition is.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
I am replacing these as to me there not as strong as a Ronstan design
The rigger said to me I could reused mine if I wanted to, but he did also say if the boat would only be used in the bay
It is possible to have rigging screws annealed thereby removing their brittleness and rendering them nearly as good as new.
Just a matter of finding who can/will do it and the cost effectiveness.
One of the blokes down here built himself a 40 footer and hand spliced eyes with tapered tails in all the stainless standing rigging at both ends
He learnt how to do it and when he was confident he knew what he was doing he took a sample to be load tested before starting on the actual rigging
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
One of the blokes down here built himself a 40 footer and hand spliced eyes with tapered tails in all the stainless standing rigging at both ends
He learnt how to do it and when he was confident he knew what he was doing he took a sample to be load tested before starting on the actual rigging
Regards Don
I had to do a wire splice when I was in the navy as part of my promotion training. Just the one, about an inch cable. It's pretty much like changing car tyres by hand [I have done a few] pretty pointless when a tyre dealer can use a machine. Same goes for wire splicing, machine does it easier and not that expensive, why bother. Bit different if it was galvanized wire.
Hi Ramona
I think he wanted eyes in the ends and the alternative was a swage and he believed that the spliced eye made a stronger finished product
He is a bit of a traditionalist and he and his wife have sail extensively around the world in this boat and their previous boat and this one was built without a engine as the normally sail everywhere and I think where the engine normally sits there is a large bank of batteries that are topped up with solar cells to run all the house stuff
He has a tender with a air cooled Honda that they can raft along side and move the boat with if needed
It is a beautiful yacht but it would probably only appeal to the select few with a similar mindset if he was to sell it
I think it is a Adams design similar to this with a centreboard sailboatdata.com/sailboat/adams-13
Regards Don
