Spinnaker pole bridle

I was just having a look on the net and there were lots of references to using 1/4 inch spectra or dyneema instead of wire for the bridles attached to the ends and the rings using a estar hitch with the knot covered in heat shrink and using snap shackles on the topping lift and down haul

There was also reference to making the angle of the bridle leaving the pole about 40 degrees

Any thoughts on that and also what type size and type of line would be suitable for the topping lift and downhaul on a 28 foot cruiser

Looking at the net 8mm seems to be what is recommended

The only problem I can see is that because the block is located just in front of the base of the mast instead of the middle of the foredeck is that the majority of the load will be on the front of the bridle which makes me wonder if I should just make the angle of the bridle to give a straight line pull from the end of the pole when it is horizontal to the deck mounted block

Also I assume I will have to cleat it off to the cleat on the base of the mast unless I replaced the existing block with one with a jammer fitted

Any thoughts would be appreciated because I am confused about what is needed





Regards Don

The choice to have a bridle or a fixed attachment point largely depends on your preferred jybing method for your spinnaker. If you jybe by detaching the pole from the mast and spinnaker brace then end for ending it then yes you will need a bridle. If you use (or prefer) the dip pole jybe then you can have a fixed point of attachment and this can be closer to the forward end of the pole for better leverage. A bridle would still work for the dip pole but it's not necessary.


In my set up my topping lift attaches to a bridle but the downhaul is actually part of the spinnaker sheet/brace so the downhaul is pulling down on the very end of the pole. We use an end for end jybe but I have been contemplating changing this arrangement to a dip pole set up as it can be difficult to wrestle the pole around and get it clipped onto the mast again if there is a bit of breeze in the kite.

From your photo it looks like you could fairly easily run your downhaul from that block back to the cockpit so it could be operated from back there. Having it cleated at the mast could be a real pain as you would need to have somebody stationed there to make adjustments in response to adjustments of your pole forward and aft in response to changes in course/breeze.

My boat has a wire bridle top and bottom. The only danger here is ageing, when the ends of the wire is becoming meat hooks, ripping fingers and sails and all into shreds. I seen some wonderfully simple solutions on some boats, 8-10mm double braid, bridled or end fitted. Cheap, strong easily handled, replaced, l was told. K.I.S.S.

A bridle isn't really necessary on a boat your size Donk, you are only using it to take the weight of the pole as the spinnaker holds the pole up most of the time and there is never really any downward force on the end of the pole, I wouldn't bother going with the down haul either, a for guy is better value as you can also use it to hold the clew down in hard running conditions when she starts to roll, all you need is one of these in the middle of the pole To attach the topping lift to.

Hi Don,

All good info here. The only thing I can add now is:

Connect the Guy only at the front, avoid connecting on the middle of the pole.
Fiesta raises a good point "bend" in the pole. Front connection avoids this. If bend is a problem up-size the pole.
Also I am against drilling any new holes anywhere on my boat. Connecting the Guy at the front gives you the option to connect the block on the bow fitting simply using a shackle.
Finally the block at the front of the mast can be used as a deck organiser, pass the guy through it on the way back to the cockpit cleating arrangement.

Some one earlier on was on the money, Keep It Simple "Sailor".

I think your pole is set up for a dip pole gybe as it will clear the forestay when dipped down near the deck.

The saddle in the middle is definitely not for the topping lift. Your parrot beak release line is tied through it so that when you pull it only one beak is released.

The shackles on one end of the pole are for the up haul and down haul.

When close reaching the spinnaker pole must be long enough when horizontal, not to pass inside the forestay. You may be able to shorten the pole a little bit so the pole does not have to be dipped so far down but you need to be real careful if you are considering that.

If you want to do pole "end for end" gybes, you will have to make up bridles with a ring in the middle of each and the ends of the bridle attached to the pole ends.

The down haul should come through a turning block mounted directly under the middle of the pole when rigged horizontal or maybe slightly forward of this position to help ease pressure of the beak on the mast ring.

Does that all make sense??

Cisco.

Edit:- By the way, in the photos you have your pole up side down.

Edit:- By the way, in the photos you have your pole up side down.

Re the pole being upside down can you please explain why because In most of the stuff I have read it is suggested the the jaws should face upwards



I've been waiting for this one to come up!

Have a read of this if you don't already have it, you maybe can work out from the diagrams what your system is

www.seldenmast.com/files/595-560-E.pdf

Interestingly the Selden link above shows the jaws point up, just like Don has.

Edit: Further to the above, I had a google and seems there is no right or wrong way for the jaws to point.

We have it set up so the pole will drop off the brace , it can be a hassle to lift it off .

Gary Hoyt freedom yachts used a different design a little unusual but from what Ive read work ok

A nice sheer line to her Don. Looks to be a stout little yacht that will serve you well.