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Evening all,
So I bit the bullet and had some new stainless pushpit/pullpit and staunchions made up about 4mths ago. Just as I was recovering from the financial shock of doing so I noticed some corrosion on the pushpit, especially where the metal was worked harder. I know this as the original build was incorrect with two corner rails vs one complete rail. So confidence was dented. First couple of pics show pre-polish appearance. I had a go with some stainless polish from WW and took most of the rust off, just some darker spots in the corners of the joint. Raised the issue of some slight corrosion with fabricator who said it was some initial effect that would discontinue after time. So question is - have I been fleeced? Is there such a settling in effect (as I write it, sounds unlikely) or is this not 316 or poor 316?? Other points on the rail where has a slight nick or scratch has seen some spots of rust. Cheers, FM26.
First things first that is some rubbish welding and is in my opinion a warranty issue before anything else
I am in the Stainless fabrication business and I can tell you if one of my first year apprentices did a weld on a boat like that I would kick him up the ass. There is a little truth in what he said about the rust will settle, but if it was polished correctly it should not show up. Any grind marks or scratches will also show rust. There was some ****ty 316 round the place. You can chemically test to see if is 316. I hope you did not pay top dollar for a job like that. On my boat you can not even see the welds as they are perfectly ground and polished. I will take some photos tomorrow and post. I must admit when you do a job for the boss, you make sure it is perfect. The welds I will show tomorrow take about 4 hours each to weld and polish, so at $100/hr that makes them $400.00 + gst each weld which most people do not want to pay, but it is amazing how many people do want a high end job and are happy to pay.
PS. The best stainless polish I have found for boats is a product called " Purple Polish "
Folkboat, I feel for you.
I noticed significant tarnish after 12 months on my new boat. I have to polish it to remove it, but when it's polished its like new again, no stain at all. There is none of the black pitting or weld marks that are evident in your picture.
So , if mine doesn't look like this after 12 months, and doesn't have the weld marks, you haven't got a fit for purpose job, I believe you have every right to complain.
It certainly looks like an inferior job to me for a marine environment. I defer to others on if it could be 316 or not.
Jode5, I'm always interested in a good SS polish. I use Wichard Greenox, have you used it, and if so how does Purple polish compare? Sorry for thread hijack.
SB
Hi all
A local boat builder told me yesterday to keep the stainless clean and shining on his boat he mixes 2 parts windex with 1 part baby oil in a spray bottle
I haven't tried it but he said it works well
Regards Don
There is a product made here in town called Metal Gleam. It's just a mixture of acids. It's used locally by the fishing industry to clean down paint work [removes rust streaks] cleans fibreglass and does a brilliant job on stainless steel. It's meant for cleaning stainless steel but works well all over the boat. Just slop it over everything with a soft boom and hose off.
looks like a very bad stick or mig weld, make sure this guy can tig weld next time.much cleaner and localised heat spread.no need to grind and polish that is only for people who cannot put down an attractive looking run.
The first two photos are of high quality welds (by AJC) and the third is of what is a standard quality that you would find on most boats (by Hanse) which is quite acceptable
32mm tube welded to an Edson ball rail mount. This weld can not be done without grinding and polishing and a first class tradesmen.
Staunchion Of high quality ( not the loop welds)
Acceptable quality standard welds.
sorry jodes my( bad) plenty of experience land welding but not in a marine environment. I withdraw my welding comments. I owe you a beer.
Thank you everyone for the comments - truly appreciated. Where to from here? If its a case of some ordinary looking craftsmanship but the surface rust tends to dissipate with a few polishes, and the structural integrity is OK, then I can "live and learn" with it. The boat is not perfect in other areas and so wouldn't be entirely out of place! If the above doesn't apply, then I will have to chase down the fabricator, and given the original job took an absolute age - about a month to fit (shipwright's fault that one - couldn't keep the water out), then it could be a long and drawn out process....guess that is why second hand boats are pretty cheap these days - not much honest talent at reasonable prices to fix then up! Maybe I need better connections....
Interesting topic .... To give an idea of acceptable quality .... Thanks to all contributors !
Nice polishing work certainly to a higher standard than I ever needed to do. But, every weld on here shoes undercut on the top leg.
The "acceptable" one goes halfway through the wall. Y'all need rotatable jigs setting up.
Good to see the passion and pride in workmanship and experience coming out in this thread.
Speaking only for own boat, I'm happy to see the weld's surface lays as long as there are no hooks to rip skin or clothing. And primarily, it must never break away under stress due to hidden weakness or corrosion (esp when I'm leaning over the pulpit pulling on the anchor chain).
Since I see some good SS welding knowledge on this thread, I have two general questions:
a) Is the temperature of the welded parts raised to the same level by all welding methods - Tig, Mig, Stick etc. - or are some methods substantially cooler than others?
b) Taking the example of a T-junction weld of 1-inch SS tubes; before grinding/sanding, is a "thin" run normally less strong than a "thick" run? Are there any other visual clues to the relative strength of two raw welds (pre grinding)?
Thanks
