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Hey I have a stuck raw water pump with three broken bolts. Is there anyway to get this thing off to replace with a new one? One bolt is sheered off and there are broken extractor bolts in there too. It's a mess! Engine is a yanmar 1gm10
Cutting off still leaves you with broken studs and a water pump housing the cannot be salvaged if need. Yes crazy!
Here is the service manual
www.jeanneau-owners.com/Manuals/3GM%20Engine%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Here is the parts list with exploded view of parts.
www.lsm-diesel.dk/2012/yanmar/pdf/motordele_1gm10.pdf
You will need to remove the front gear casing (refer Fig 2 in parts list).
The waterpump will come off with the casing.
Then you can work on it properly on a bench.
Drill out bolts and have stainless helicoils fitted.
Don't bother ordering gaskets (water pump and gearcase to crankcase.)
You will wait forever for them to arrive and pay to much.
Buy the correct thickness of gasket material, a couple of wad punches and make your own gaskets.
Have fun learning about your engine.
P.S. Drain oil before removing gearcase cover.
Gary
SLOWLY!!!
Parts into separate buckets.
Plenty of before photos to assist reassembly.
NO using a screwdriver between the alloy gearcase and cast iron crankcase.
I make a card board template of the removed part, punch holes for bolts to speed up reassemble
If they are of differing lengths this helps a lot.
Clean all parts before reassemble. Wire brush all threads. Apply anti seize for obvious reasons.
As I said, have fun getting ti\o know your engine.
gary
It sounds like you're just wanting to use an extractor bit to pull out the bolts with broken off heads.
Basically involves drilling a hole through the centre of the sheared off bolt then screwing the extractor-bit into that hole until it's binds in. Then reverse turning the bit out (along with the broken bolt out of its thread).
If I've got the link right, this youtube video demonstrates this.
Good luck with the extractor bits I've tried many times over the years it is possible but the reason the bolt usually sheers is it is seized in the tread, so the option then is to drill out the broken bolt all well and good in a drill press, free hand takes as much luck as skill. If you can get some heat in there like oxy or maybe a propane torch then douse it with water it will help and if there's enough broken bolt protruding to weld some thing to it that gives a good chance of success. Fingers crossed
Most times easyouts won't work on a boat as the bolts or studs are corroded in so tight when you try to back them out with the easyout tool it just spreads the bolt or stud as it tries to wind itself in jamming it even tighter in the hole till the easyout snaps off. The judicious application of heat in most circumstance works much better in breaking the bond between bolt and hole.
Maybe try to soak with some oxalic acid to help dissolve the rust. Then apply heat.
Hi Westimo
Had a good look at your photo.
Here it is oriented correctly.
The red is a missing or broken bolt for gearcase cover to crankcase.
The blue is a broken bolt for water pump body to gearcase cover
The greens are broken bolts for water pump cover to water pump body.
To fix the red and to do the job properly you will have to remove the engine.
Earlier suggestions of using Easiiouts will not work on such corroded broken bolts.
You have " Green" steel bolts broken off in soft bronze.
"Blue" steel bolt broken off in alloy gearcase cover
"Red" steel bolt broken of in cast iron.
This can only be repaired properly on a nice clean bench.
You will not get away with a hand held drill as per the set up video.
You have to use a drill press to control the drilling process.
You need to drill out and if you can re-tap (the same size).
If not helicoils are the answer.
To remove engine you need to take off everything you can in situ, (alternator and brackets, exhaust manifold, inlet manifold, starter motor etc.)
This will make the engine lighter and easier to handle.
lucky you have a small manageable engine!
gary
Jolene, Great advise on choice of welding rod, I guess the idea of a hard facing rod is the ability to leave build up, which gives something to try and get hold of and reshaping or sharpening a masonry bit to try to drill old extractors is gold !
