Hi Guys
This is what I have planned
To mark the port light cut outs Ill use the outer rings and clamp them to a straight edge at the correct spacing and just turn the straight edge with the outer rings in place to mark both cabin sides.
I will use a spacer full length along the cabin sides internally as a spacer and set the protrusion so the retaining fly wire dimples as near flush with the out side of cabin sides so the inner ring will protrude slightly( the outer ring slides over the inner ring)
Thats the easy part.
Next is reducing the width of the outer rings which I do with a slitter blade on a 5 inch grinder . I can slide the outer rings on to the fitted port light while there being mounted to center them in the cut out before I cut the depth off outer rings and get a accurate depth measurement.
Using a timber space is out even with teak Ill have a problem I think.
So I am going to make stainless steel nuts out of flat bar that will fit flush inside the outer rings.
Then make a jig so I can screw the nuts onto the jig and make a accurate height measurement on all nuts before welding place the jig with the nuts onto the outer ring and weld them on.
The jig would be made so it centers the outer rings as well as locating the nuts to be welded.
The dry assemble every port light if they work out seal them in place probably some thing like urethane
any input taken on board
Or I just make my own outer rings out of flat stainless steel and tap blind threads
I'm sure you will get it right! You seem to be quite the profectionist try a jigsaw blade that's used for metal or plastic I think they are just 1 or 2 mm width blade perhaps the call them a scroll blade can't quite remember its been 7 years!
Select to expand quoteHG02 said...
Hi Guys
This is what I have planned
To mark the port light cut outs Ill use the outer rings and clamp them to a straight edge at the correct spacing and just turn the straight edge with the outer rings in place to mark both cabin sides.
I will use a spacer full length along the cabin sides internally as a spacer and set the protrusion so the retaining fly wire dimples as near flush with the out side of cabin sides so the inner ring will protrude slightly( the outer ring slides over the inner ring)
Thats the easy part.
Next is reducing the width of the outer rings which I do with a slitter blade on a 5 inch grinder . I can slide the outer rings on to the fitted port light while there being mounted to center them in the cut out before I cut the depth off outer rings and get a accurate depth measurement.
Using a timber space is out even with teak Ill have a problem I think.
So I am going to make stainless steel nuts out of flat bar that will fit flush inside the outer rings.
Then make a jig so I can screw the nuts onto the jig and make a accurate height measurement on all nuts before welding place the jig with the nuts onto the outer ring and weld them on.
The jig would be made so it centers the outer rings as well as locating the nuts to be welded.
The dry assemble every port light if they work out seal them in place probably some thing like urethane
any input taken on board
Or I just make my own outer rings out of flat stainless steel and tap blind threads
Nice portlights 
Select to expand quotemangrovefrog said..
HG02 said...
Hi Guys
This is what I have planned
To mark the port light cut outs Ill use the outer rings and clamp them to a straight edge at the correct spacing and just turn the straight edge with the outer rings in place to mark both cabin sides.
I will use a spacer full length along the cabin sides internally as a spacer and set the protrusion so the retaining fly wire dimples as near flush with the out side of cabin sides so the inner ring will protrude slightly( the outer ring slides over the inner ring)
Thats the easy part.
Next is reducing the width of the outer rings which I do with a slitter blade on a 5 inch grinder . I can slide the outer rings on to the fitted port light while there being mounted to center them in the cut out before I cut the depth off outer rings and get a accurate depth measurement.
Using a timber space is out even with teak Ill have a problem I think.
So I am going to make stainless steel nuts out of flat bar that will fit flush inside the outer rings.
Then make a jig so I can screw the nuts onto the jig and make a accurate height measurement on all nuts before welding place the jig with the nuts onto the outer ring and weld them on.
The jig would be made so it centers the outer rings as well as locating the nuts to be welded.
The dry assemble every port light if they work out seal them in place probably some thing like urethane
any input taken on board
Or I just make my own outer rings out of flat stainless steel and tap blind threads
Nice portlights
mangrovefrog
you say that to all the sailors 
Im going to run a hard wood stringer epoxy sealed along the top and bottom of the inside of the cabin side so the outer ring fits between when the port light cut out is done measure the depth mark that on the outer ring and reduce the width of the outer ring to suit the hard wood spacer weld the tabs back on and dry fit Ill also make the hard wood spacer for the sides of the outer ring and do the same so the outer ring had a snug fit . after dry fit sealant and assemble
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
too many close up photos !!! doing my head in !!!! take a step back !!
I took this photo a few weeks ago before I filled in the old cut outs on the inside of the cabin Ill run two stringers of hard wood so the outer ring you see in this photo will sit between them and Ill also add the ends in hard wood as well.
These outer rings have tabs welded to then which I will remove and re weld after Ive reduced the width of the outer rings so there flush with the hard wood stringers inside the cabin sides bend the tabs and screw then to the hard wood stringers. Basically all I'm doing is reducing the width of the out rings on all 6 of the port lights and fitting them as per the fitting instruction from Trend Port lights
After that the inner rings are screwed to the inside on the same hard wood stringers and add sika flex be fore final fitting
