port light sealant

Hi guys
I have been looking for a sealant to go between the stainless port light frame and the cabin sides . Id like to use a Butyl tape if I could
I did find this at bunnings any one ever used it ? its called Tommy Tape the secs look ok
www.bunnings.com.au/tommy-tape-25mm-x-3m-specialty-tape-black_p1560101

Mate, I believe that is the wrong kind of butler tape. See this article: www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-butyl-tape.html

I believe what you want for that application is several mm thick and a bit like chewing gum or putty but in the form of a roll. It's awesome.

I could only find black in Australia when I looked which isn't ideal for boats. You may find some. Here's what I got: www.blackwoods.com.au/part/02716566/tape-butyl-mastic-50mm-x-10m

There is a US supplier of the grey stuff and he said he could do it for "Each roll is $16.85 USD plus the shipping ( $59.95 USD for up to 5 rolls.)". That's actually cheaper than the stuff I got from Australia as that was over $100!

If anyone wants a roll I'm happy to do a bulk order. I'd have to get an updated quote.

Hi HG

I don't know whether this is any good but it is used on caravans to seal windows and hatches to the body panels

It is called strip caulking and comes on a roll and is a greyish white colour
http://camec.com/building-materials/sealants.html
caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=119

The stuff that camec sells is 13mm wide, 6.4mm thick and comes on a 5.5 meter roll for less than $10

It is easy to use and is available from Camec who supply building materials to the caravan industry

Regards Don

Hes my plan of attack for the port lights any input would be appreciated I don't want to make any mistakes
I will start this weekend to fill in the old existing port light cut outs
I fitted up the inside of the port lights tonight and measures what was exposed to the out side of the cabin side 14 mm so this will stay as it is.





I will buy some teak 30 mm thick one length for each cabin sides and and insert the out ring of the 2 port lights into the teak on each side .
The teak will frame the out ring of the port light by 70mm and have routed edges on the out side of the teak timber. once Ive sort one side out Ill use that as a template for the opposite side on the cabin to replicate it then trace out the cut out and cut the fiberglass.
Using the teak will mean color matching of the cabin side wont need to happen after filling in the old port light cut outs which means one less thing to do and I'm not a great color matcher or painter so thats a bonus.
Also the teak will strengthen the cabin side also after the modification I hope it wont look to much wood on the exterior of the boat


goodoldboat.com/fitting-bronze-portlights/

Ill be following this link above as far as filling in the old port lights
Input appreciated I dont want to over look any thing

Probably too late now, but if you were after white butyl tape, its\'s available at tapesonline.com.au. Search for butyl on their website.

The way the inside frame will be set up on the inside of the cabin side and how in the inner ring end up protruding though the cabin side .The mastic would be used be on for the inner stainless frame and seal against the inner cabin side.
Where it comes through to the out side of the cabin I will be using a different sealant sika flex



I placed the new port light into the old port light cut out just to work out what need to be done. So Donks mastic will be on the inside of the cabin once that is fixed into position the teak frame and out port light ring will be bought up to fit the inside and I will use a sika flex product to seal the out ring and teak frame to the cabin side and teak frame will be fixed from the inside of the cabin as well as the sika flex sealant on the out side.
I dont think mIll have any problems.
My main concern is the angle of the outer ring will it comect water either rain or sea water and when the port is opened if it had this water will drain inside . So I will try as much as possible to rectify this by tapering the teak frame so its more up right and reduces the risk of water drain . That will be the hardest thing to do as the cabin side is not at 90 degress. It will be a trade off with ascetics and bloody water draining inside when the port light is opened
Note the outer ring slides over the inner ring when the two part are joined so there is room for adjustment to assist drainage
If you can visualize a teak frame around the stainless steel frame in the above photo that is 70 mm wide this is what I am doing . I think in the end Ill make four separate teak frames Identical. These teak frames will be 30 mm thick with the outer ring inserted
into them



outer ring with out a teak frame. These are 50 mm wide and will be reduced to fit my boat . Once Ive made the teak frames
I hope some of this makes sense
Initially I was going to use one piece of teak with two port light cut outs but feel this might be a problem as the cabin side are not a flat straight surface so four teak cut out make sense.
If I end up with color matching problems after Ive filled in the old port light holes I might paint a panel surround the covers the port light area . I will be painting the non skid areas this spring with a light Grey, so I could match this on the port light panel save me trying to match up the original color on the cabin top. or paint the complete cabin. Which I really don't want to do as it in reasonable condition.

Cheers Cisco