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recomend me the best sound proofing glue

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Created by HG02 > 9 months ago, 13 Jun 2014
HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
13 Jun 2014 7:49PM
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I will start sound proofing my engine panel next week Ive cut out all the material and should have the engine cover back during the week. I was thinking of kwik grip ,coat both sides let it dry a bit and put them together.
Has any one know of better glues to use

Toph
WA, 1839 posts
13 Jun 2014 6:54PM
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I would imagine as long as qwik grip is tolerant to the heat from the engine, then it would be perfect for the job.


Datawiz
VIC, 605 posts
15 Jun 2014 9:49AM
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HG, Assuming you're attaching the soundproofing to timber, I'd screw it on using large washers. This method is used on my Catalina & works well. If you glue it, maybe you'll have attachment problems long term. Conversely, if it adheres well, it'll be a pain if you ever want to detach it to make adjustments, etc.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
15 Jun 2014 9:58AM
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Select to expand quote
Datawiz said...
HG, Assuming you're attaching the soundproofing to timber, I'd screw it on using large washers. This method is used on my Catalina & works well. If you glue it, maybe you'll have attachment problems long term. Conversely, if it adheres well, it'll be a pain if you ever want to detach it to make adjustments, etc.


Data I was thinking that also it is to be fitted to fiber glass the engine cover and also the hull liner.
I have been thinking about running wooden stringers glass them on to the fiber glass and screw the sound proofing to stringers also adding glue . I hate it when this stuff comes off Id rather doing right and forget about it .
Looking at thw engine bay I dont think Ill ever ned to make any alterations later as Ive removed as much as possible out of there
Thanks

brett221
QLD, 128 posts
16 Jun 2014 10:33AM
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There is a orthotics supplier in Melbourne called Algeos, they have a contact adhesive that comes from Germany, is a lot easier to work with than kwik grip. Cost is around the same, just will make the job a lot cleaner. The contact number is 1300 668 606.

Solvents such as MEK make removal of it in 5 or 10 years time quick and easy.

southace
SA, 4776 posts
16 Jun 2014 10:26AM
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The best glueing and the easiest I have found in the past is a hot melt glue gun.... I think I used qwick grip when I did my engine bay but I would consider the hot melt again if I was ever going to do my engine bay again. In fact I have decided that when I get my new yacht I'm going to install a further insulation over the top of whatever the current noise proofing is.....as I hate noise....also I'm planing to have a built in genset and aircon for those hot tropical nights when the sandflys and mozzies want to come in and eat me So I will need some very good soundproofing in my engine bay!

cisco
QLD, 12337 posts
16 Jun 2014 2:10PM
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brett221 said...
There is a orthotics supplier in Melbourne called Algeos, they have a contact adhesive that comes from Germany, is a lot easier to work with than kwik grip. Cost is around the same, just will make the job a lot cleaner. The contact number is 1300 668 606.

Solvents such as MEK make removal of it in 5 or 10 years time quick and easy.


Just make sure when using MEK in a confined space that you wear a respirator. MEK is the active ingredient in glue that fries the sniffers brains.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
16 Jun 2014 6:14PM
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southace said...
The best glueing and the easiest I have found in the past is a hot melt glue gun.... I think I used qwick grip when I did my engine bay but I would consider the hot melt again if I was ever going to do my engine bay again. In fact I have decided that when I get my new yacht I'm going to install a further insulation over the top of whatever the current noise proofing is.....as I hate noise....also I'm planing to have a built in genset and aircon for those hot tropical nights when the sandflys and mozzies want to come in and eat me So I will need some very good soundproofing in my engine bay!



Just rememeber South Ace to invite me over on those hot nights OK ,when you fire up the air conditioner

Agent nods
622 posts
16 Jun 2014 5:16PM
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I am by no means a diesel expert....but by luck I had a mate who was, he was (is) diesel injection specialist. ( And bow down to people who know..HG? and his new axillary)

Things he taught me on making diesels quiet (both on yachts and home generators - where we lived you needed generators!).
Before you look at surround insulation....get rid of the source of the noise.
Make certain vibration is dampened...good and as many as possible, rubber mounts on motor and transmission. If you don't you just transfer the noise to somewhere else in the hull.

The greatest noise sources on the engine are air intake, and exhaust.
Increase the size of of air filter and include an intake nozzle (similar to car engine arrangement). Just make it easy to remove.
Exhaust...the bigger, thicker the better... I replaced a Perkins 4108 exhaust/water muffler once, the casing was 6 inch pipe with ½ inch thickness walls, and similar battens...it reduced the noise by 40% (measured).
Be careful of over insulation, stopping the noise getting out, also usually means stopping the air getting in....
Diesels like lots of nice clean and preferably cooler air......none of which is available in the normal yacht engine bay. So a fan assisted duct to the air intake would give extra power, plus allowing you to insulate for the noise.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
16 Jun 2014 7:29PM
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nods said...

I am by no means a diesel expert....but by luck I had a mate who was, he was (is) diesel injection specialist. ( And bow down to people who know..HG? and his new axillary)

Things he taught me on making diesels quiet (both on yachts and home generators - where we lived you needed generators!).
Before you look at surround insulation....get rid of the source of the noise.
Make certain vibration is dampened...good and as many as possible, rubber mounts on motor and transmission. If you don't you just transfer the noise to somewhere else in the hull.

The greatest noise sources on the engine are air intake, and exhaust.
Increase the size of of air filter and include an intake nozzle (similar to car engine arrangement). Just make it easy to remove.
Exhaust...the bigger, thicker the better... I replaced a Perkins 4108 exhaust/water muffler once, the casing was 6 inch pipe with ½ inch thickness walls, and similar battens...it reduced the noise by 40% (measured).
Be careful of over insulation, stopping the noise getting out, also usually means stopping the air getting in....
Diesels like lots of nice clean and preferably cooler air......none of which is available in the normal yacht engine bay. So a fan assisted duct to the air intake would give extra power, plus allowing you to insulate for the noise.


I have thought of s snorkel to bring fresh air( similar to lets say a land cruiser) in but have not had a lot of experience in marine Im a land mechanic I do know what your saying is spot on I had even thought of making a dollard vent some how to bring fresh air into the inlet maifold

Agent nods
622 posts
16 Jun 2014 7:10PM
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I like the idea of inlet snorkel.....you don't see them on yachts though - why? (every other diesel though, 4WD, truck, gensets....). Yacht designers design for sail...motor secondary. My mate used to add them for performance reasons, not or river crossings.

But we know motors are used a lot.....probably the more north, the more the motor is used? I lived for many years 6 deg S. never any wind in the morning, but a good onshore in the afternoon....so motor out then wait, and sail home.

southace
SA, 4776 posts
16 Jun 2014 8:56PM
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I fitted a rule blower to my last yacht engine room. I think from cloudy memory it sucked air out . i used vetus boxes ....my only hate was it only kicked in when the alternator fired up at 800rpm. You can see them in this pic below.



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"recomend me the best sound proofing glue" started by HG02