Forget converters. There is enough hardware rolling around in the back of my car
Yeah I like the dual box AA , that's the way to go . The fight is still on for Tuttle or track mount. I'm vote one for Tuttle but for my new prone board I'm going track just because of board thickness. The Tuttle/track convert mounts are still heavy, cumbersome & expensive. Personally, I'd like to see the mast mounts on the foils to screw off & on Tuttle or Track mount. It's early days in the VHS v Beta battle. The back of my car is like a Bunnings store but the dual box Sunovas are the way to go. Well done to Bert & Tino.
Been doing it from the start so nothing new and seen plenty of boards with both systems so I don't think anyone invented the wheel here. For now as far as production goes it's really the only way to go.
Getting plenty of enquiries on this board from all over Oz. Being a 2in1 SUP Surf Foilboard with both mounting options appears to be a pretty unique combo right now. Certainly down our way. Casso just took the 7'4 away with him on a 4 week road trip so we should see plenty more action on the board as a SUP as well as a Foil board.
Just heard there is the addition of 7' - 95L board to the range available in June
7'0 x 28" 95L
7'4x 29" 110L
7'8 x 30" 125L
8'0 x 32" 145L
i disagree....I don't think you need the added wait of both mounts nor do you need to be able to adjust the positioning of your mast.... If you use GoFoil then all you need is a tuttle box, 2 screws & off you go.... If you need to adjust anything then adjust your feet & body positioning... The GoFoil goes straight from my Sup straight into my surfboard foil.... You can always get the Manta adaptor...
I'd like to experiment hydro foiling on my 11 ft Bic windSUP.
My aim is not high-wind, high speed , but, more modestly, gliding a few inches above the water , sort of midway between planing and full-fledge hydrofoiling. I wouldn't certainly spend a fortune on state-of-the-art, perhaps overpriced, carbon-made wings, so mine is a DIY project.
I have just read that a plate can be attached to the hull, instead of using the fin box, which can be damaged, especially a US fin box.
Here are my questions:
1. Can the plate be safely be glued to the hull with the regular epoxy resin and hardener used for fiberglas jobs, without coming off?
If not, what adhesive is recommended for bonding wood to the hull?
2.Can I attach the plate directly on the hull surface or do I have to scrape off the gel coat first, for a stronger bond?
3. Approximately, how much forwards of the fin-box should the plate be? Perhaps midway between the fin box and the centerboard?
Is there an optimal position along the hull? The board is 11 ft long, 34 " wide at midships.
4. Minimum length of the mast? I'd like to stay away from the usual very long masts. I wouldn't go above 40 cm ( 16 ") , because water tends to be shallow around the launch area, with shifting hidden sandbanks and hidden rocks just below the surface, especially in summer, low water conditions. .
5. Main wing surface: for the usual light winds here ( 10-12 knts) I was thinking that a large surfrace wing (36" x12"), would be required , in order to maximize lift. The board is 11ft long, 34 " wide at midships. Is it perhaps too much? I weigh 180 lbs plus the 220 lt board and rig.
6. It would simplify things enormously to do away with the rear stabilizer wing and attach the wing directly onto the mast, keeping in mind my intended purpose : calm water and light winds? What are the drawbacks without the rear wing?
I'd appreciate comments and suggestions on the above.
Thanks
Ittiandro
Mmm... are you speaking of Windfoiling? This is totally different, with the power of the sail, a big board is not a problem: you just fly it totally straight, the power is in the sail.
For SUP foiling however, the power is the wave, and you need to subtly move the board to tap its energy. A big board can work, look Robert video(*) on his 14', but the range of usable conditions becomes much smaller (you will need more perfect waves), and notice how he moves his 14' in the air... a 16 kg board (after reinforcements) will be much harder. I guess it is doable if you already know how to foil, but the learning curve will be harder.
I always advocated centering the foil to have it closer to the board center of gravity in my posts, but let's just say it seems to ruffle some feathers :-)
In a nutshell, just aim to windfoil it at first, to learn as much foiling as possible before attempting without a sail.
(*)
Ah OK. I never windfoiled, but I know Gong plans to make a thicker mast for windfoiling: The shaper says that masts used in SUP foiling are not rigid enough for windfoiling. So you may want to reinforce it quite a lot.
A shorter mast is a good idea to learn on: less mechanical stress, safer falls.
On the foilmount, if you read this forum and the Zone, you will see that any solution that only anchors on the hull will break in the long term. The glue is not the issue, the hull just delaminates (and one foilmount itself broke at the bolts holes)
I would just reinforce the hull with carbon layers before glueing the foilmount.
Or you can just use Piros solution: screw the foil on a plate, and duct-tape it under the board :-)
I have a board where the tuttle box pushed a bit sideways the hull which folded. I just glassed 6 layers of 12oz carbon on a 1' area over the hull around the box, it is now super solid, it makes a small buldge on the hull but nothing dramatic.
Duck tape... Here it is!
I've had the Sunova 7' 8" foil SUP since Christmas and cannot rate it high enough.
Mainly used for foiling, but how good is it to be able to take one board away & be able foil or SUP.
Further to my previous posts, I have now completed the windfoil prototype for my Bic WindSup, which I'll test as soon as weather permits.
Unlike most conventional boards, though, my foil cannot be mounted at the very end of the board, because I can't use the fin box..
To insert the 60 cm plywood mast, I had to build instead an 18" wood rail between the end of the fin box and the center board slot.
I have 18" to play with and can always try various settings at the beach, but in the meantime I wonder if anybody has suggestions on the the optimal position of the foil, given the length of the board: towards the back or the front? What would be the difference in handling?
Also, I read that the rear stabilizer wing can increase the lift in light winds, by tilting it downward. I didn't know it, so, as it is now, I cannot adjust it, but I can always modify the fuselage to allow adjustment of the rear wing angle .
By the way, I followed Colas advice to use duct tape. It is fine, but for added strength I have also glued the railing to the hull with double face 3M carpet tape. It feels very strong. It doesn't come off even by twisting, pushing and pulling the mast with reasonable force . To top it all, I have also fastened the mounting plate to the hull with straps. It should be O.K. in the water , at least in light winds conditions. Any comments/suggestions?
Thanks
Francone
Back on topic. I caught up with quite a few foilers from different countries at the Sunova Dealer meeting recently and the VHS/Beta war of Tuttle vs Track mount is alive and well! We can talk all day about the Pro's and Con's of each system but It is really not clear if either will come out on top as the preferred mounting system. Until this is sorted (and I doubt it ever will) the option to have both foil mounts on a board makes sense. The extra weight is negligible if done in production and the benefits of being able to put any foil on it is huge. Plus when it comes to upgrading and re-sale you double the potential market. So glad SUNOVA invented this system
Two points:
1.The duct tape suggestion sounds good, but it is perhaps a bit unsightly. Maybe regular carpet tape is just as good (and less obtrusive ) to hold the plate in place. I tried it and the plate it is hard to pull off by hand, at least with moderate strength.
For more secure fastening, I can always use a few retaining brackets glued to the hull with a U.S. made super-glue : J-B Marine Weld epoxy.
The manufacturer claims it has a 3900 lbs/psi strength A lot!
In fact, I joined two small ( .50") metal angle brackets back to back with this glue and tried to pull them apart by hand with all my strength , clamped in a vise. . The metal starts bending, but the glue holds! I am positive they won't come off when sailing.
The downside may be that the glue is so strong that the hull will crack or delaminate first, unless, as somebody suggested in this Forum, I reinforce the hull with a layer of carbon at the precise spots where the brackets are to be glued. Perhaps a couple of narrow carbon strips will do.
2. Stabilizer rear wing: I have angled the main wing at 10-12 ?( the L.E. is pointing slightly up for better lift).
Is it better that the rear wing , too, has a L.E. tilted upward, like the main wing, or does it have to be tilted the opposite way, i.e. slightly downward, perhaps for better stability? . Or does it matter at all? Can it be left on a horizontal ( neuter)plane?
Thanks
Francone