One for the board builders and artists amongst you:
I'm respraying a board at the moment. It has durable black 2k primer and a very light blue coat over the top (black almost showing through in places). I was wondering, what is the best way to get the 'brushed effect' that you see on board brands like Coreban/Focus etc? Obviously sanding is involved but what grade wet n dry paper and do you do it wet? Do you use a wood or a rubber sanding block? What sanding pattern? (presumably lengthways).
The plan is to polish the finish to gloss rather than leave it matt (like starboard) after I've finished.
Many thanks for any tips
Select to expand quotesettlands said..
One for the board builders and artists amongst you:
I'm respraying a board at the moment. It has durable black 2k primer and a very light blue coat over the top (black almost showing through in places). I was wondering, what is the best way to get the 'brushed effect' that you see on board brands like Coreban/Focus etc? Obviously sanding is involved but what grade wet n dry paper and do you do it wet? Do you use a wood or a rubber sanding block? What sanding pattern? (presumably lengthways).
The plan is to polish the finish to gloss rather than leave it matt (like starboard) after I've finished.
Many thanks for any tips
Start to polish with first pass of sand paper 600 grid , then a second one with 1200 or around grid using softer pad as you come up in grid grade.
I had to do so some repairs on brushed carbon boards. Anything that thins the paint work:
- just slight spray with a paint bomb
- removing most of the (fresh) paint with solvent F
- sanding wet by hand
- plain sanding with a regular sander
For large surfaces, I would use a sander with a fine grit (600) , taking care of not digging in the carbon, with lengthways strokes to get a "stripes" pattern that most brands use.
Either spray or brush. White appliance paint works well. Sand lightly with 600 dry, then 600 wet, finally auto polishing compund. Voila!
I have got a regular glass board where the surface green gel coat is chipped mainly along the rail with paddle strikes. Exposing bare gf. I would like to strip the paint or sand it mainly because the paint is chipping off too easily and is making it look terrible. But also to save weight.
My question is how is the best way of going about this and will it need sealing after? If so, what with? I know it wont look like a brushed carbon board but happy for it to have a distressed look, just want to make sure its watertight.
I am currently sanding down the paint chips. There is bare glass showing. I have been using it with bare glass showing is this ok?? ! If so is there anything other than paint that will seal it?
I've sanded down boards to the glass before and done nothing.. and they've been fine.. 
Sanding through the glass is another story.. 
I'd like to know what the experts say about this.. 
Select to expand quotesettlands said..
One for the board builders and artists amongst you:
I'm respraying a board at the moment. It has durable black 2k primer and a very light blue coat over the top (black almost showing through in places). I was wondering, what is the best way to get the 'brushed effect' that you see on board brands like Coreban/Focus etc? Obviously sanding is involved but what grade wet n dry paper and do you do it wet? Do you use a wood or a rubber sanding block? What sanding pattern? (presumably lengthways).
The plan is to polish the finish to gloss rather than leave it matt (like starboard) after I've finished.
Many thanks for any tips
It's a big job if you want to do it .primer first light sand ,then top coat white ..then sand it till the primer starts showing . In your own pattern
streaks lines what ever .then spray .top coat with clear coat gloss .two pack.enjoy .
Select to expand quoteDavidJohn said..
I've sanded down boards to the glass before and done nothing.. and they've been fine..
Sanding through the glass is another story..
I'd like to know what the experts say about this..
Exposing the glass can be fine ... or not, depending on luck. The risk is to expose some pinhole (bubbles during lamination) in the glass that the hoatcoat covered.
The risk is quite small for small surfaces I guess.
