My 40 Year Bucket List
As a grommet living in Newcastle we all jumped on the bus at Blacksmiths and got a lift to the Hunter Thearter at Bar Beach to watch the surf movie FREE RIDE since then I've been wanting to surf Honolua Bay ever since I saw that surf movie "FREE RIDE," when narrater Jan Michael Vincent says "here's Mark Richards taking of on the wave of the day" way back in 1977. Honolua was just pumping.
Honolua Bay is rated as one of the top 10 waves on the planet to surf, they say it's like Angourie on steroids.
Well I got my 40 year bucket list Wish, surfed Honolua Bay all day, surfed 3 x 3 hour sessions when I first got there in was 3-4ft by lunchtime a few solid 6fters rolled in, there was no more than 20 guys in the line-up at one time. It was a fun day Honolua wasn't pumping I got a few nice one's and a few on the head, you had to pick your waves otherwise it would closeout on the take off my rating for the day was 4/10.
Coconuts looked like fun bit too fat, The Cave is where it's at.
Monk Seal Sun-baking Maui Style,
Honolua Bay was to small to surf today inconsistent 3ft so I went back to Hookipa it had good size 6-8ft with the odd 10fter coped a few on the head broke an old legropd I caught a bomb 8ft+ set all the way then it closed out so I bailed then felt the legrope go ping had to swim in the rip current to get me board hahaha. It was bigger than yesterday, I should have taken my 8'2'' gun out I was riding a 7'6'' it loved the drops.
Big day at Honolua Bay yesterday Saw good friends Kathy Shipman & Dave Kalama. I surfed from like 7:15am in the morning till like 3:00pm in the afternoon I did come in around 11:30am for like 1/2 hour to change boards it was like 4-6ft in the morning 2-3ft in the afternoon had fun on the MR single-fin, Looking at beautiful Molokai in the background, Wow I've paddle the Pai'lolo Channel 7 times already.
I feel a bit like Wallaby Teds brother Roo Ted. After a few Coronas I slept like a baby.
How good are the Coronas in this Country only $19 for a carton of 18 in Australia a carton of 24 Coronas is like $55 our Australian Government is F#@#d.
I need to find a chin-up bar so I can put the gravity boots on to stretch my back out.
Apparently a big NW swell is going to hit this Friday I hope to see Honolua Bay in the 10ft+ range. "Yes Please Mr wizard"
No Surf & No Wind today needed to do a little ocean training lucky my friend Christine had a spare 12ft Prone Paddleboard i could borrow. Did a flat water Maliko ocean paddle for like 70 minutes, it felt good to throw the arms over. (usually Maliko in the Hawaiian summer time has the best Downwind Paddling conditions on the Planet)
Yesterday had no waves so I got invited by the SIC crew to do a Kihei run Kihei was like EPIC 12/10 on some bumps I didn't know what to do paddle or just surf, hahaha.
On one Bump it was Devin Blish, Phil Gregory and Livio Menelau on the same bump gliding for like ever, BULK FUN.
My good friend Jaecey Suda brought the business Maliko Shuttle Bus of Kelly Moore-Coullahan
Devin Blish
Phil & Devin Blish
Randy Royce
Livio Menelau, Phil Gregory, Jeremy Riggs
Phil & Jaecey Suda
Jeremy Riggs & Ulan SIC - Kihei Photo Shoot
Ulan
Mark & Donna Raaphorst - what a SIC couple
No surf again today on Maui. Honolua Bay is around 1-2ft be fun on a Longboard.
But the wind was looking EPIC for a Maliko Run so Jaecey Suda put the word out the Maliko Shuttle was doing a run around 12:30pm the wind was good ENE 25-25 knots with gust up to 35 knots.
Maliki was Bulk Fun had the best time paddling with Devin Blish, Gregg Leion, Martin Giroud, Bill Boyum a G-land LEGEND, Jeremy Riggs, Jaecey Suda.
I just love my 18ft custom V3 SIC Bullet once you get on the tail it goes straight into 5th gear. Got some fun Bumps surfed for like ever I was way, way out like 4 km of the coast on my way to California, hahaha. I didn't want to get hit by a rouge wave on the outer reefs. my fastest k was like 4:20
http://www.surfline.com/video/featured-clips/honolua-bays-epic-winter-starring-dusty-payne_137943
Kihei
Maliko
No surf again today Maliko was doing it's thing once again EPIC, had the best paddle battle with Ralf Sifford and Andrea Moller. Jeremy Riggs smashed us all 58 minutes for a Maliko Run, Andrea 61 minutes Phil & Ralf 62 minutes
Big Swell coming Friday I hope to get one more surf at Honolua Bay then I'm of to the North Shore for 8 days.
Styling with my new Paddle with Riggs Truckers Cap, thanks Jeremy Riggs.
STOKED got me 2 months supply of The Best Coffee on the Planet to bring back to Australia.
Phil,
Don't they pack cocaine in coffee bags to fool the sniffer dogs?
Whatever you do, don't bring it back packed in a boogie board cover!
Honolulu By Night and by Day from from Lisa & Blair Thorndike place at Kaimuki, Maunalani Heights from on top off Diamond Head.
What a million dollar view for a concrete jungle.
Leinaala Hutchinson Thorndike Pajama Party Big Night hanging with my best mate Blair Thorndike (M2O Prone Paddle Partner) and close friends on Oahu
The Thorndike automatic Bottle Opener