Board Repairs

I was like you, intimidated by making a proper repair and using various repair kits.

My advice: make the jump a do proper repairs. It is actually quite easy to do, and easier to get good results than dabbling with repair kits.
And once you know how to do proper repairs, using repair kits becomes easy :-)

So, buy:
- a good epoxy UV-resistant surf resin. You wont believe how things become easier with these.
- some carbon band (easier to handle than 1 meter wide cloth), in 2" to 5" width.
- a sander, and water-sanding papers.
- a small scale to weight the resin (the ones precise to 0.1g are great)
- misc: latex gloves, plastic coffee cups, PVC clear tape for masking and covering the repair

Look at all the tutorials, and know that the only important step is properly mix the resin. Every other mistake can be corrected by removing the bad repair and re-doing it.

This said, for pinholes, just do the soapy water test: put board in the sun and soapy water on the pinholes. If no bubbles appear in 2mn, it is waterproof.
Otherwise, drill a bit the pinhole and re-apply resin.

Hi Vinski,

Just a follow up to the good advice above to let you know Phix Doctor's 2 to 1 Super Sap Bio-Epoxy is used exclusively by Firewire and Channel Islands, and is just over 30% bio sourced, the highest bio content in the industry. By design our mission is to make repair products using the highest performance resins and the lowest carbon footprint packaging at the lowest cost.

You can learn more about Super Sap Epoxy here...

entropyresins.com/products/

entropyresins.com/why-use-super-sap/?doing_wp_cron=1584707083.0277268886566162109375


Also to know more about Phix Doctor's range of eco-pack



ed repair products using innovative, industry leading resins have a look here...

www.phixdoctor.net/shop.html

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Bender said..
Air pushing out through a freshly lammed repair will cause pin holes IMHO that is.

My trick is to always cover the repair with flexible clear PVC tape stretched directly on it. This way pinholes cannot develop (air movements are blocked), you pre-shape the repair so that you end up with minimal sanding, and the resin will not flow and drop.

But Bender is right: ensure that the board is cooling down while you apply the resin. Heating it before the repair, if needed.

PS: Once the resin is hard to the touch, you can cure it by heating it to 40 / 45C for one hour (lamp, heating blanket). It will harden as much as one week at 20C, making sanding easier.
Do not heat more than 50C, however. Do not heat before it is already hard otherwise you will get air bubbles.

bender, your a smart man. expansion and contraction. hot and cold. So to day in sydney is sanding day