I just ripped it off and then removed the remaining glue residue with a degreaser/wax remover from bunnings. It was long and laborious but it did work. Looking back on it, it may have been better to have lifted a corner poured in some of the solvent, let it work, pry up with scraper then do it all again until it was all gone. Either way it may take some time. Not aware of a magic bullet method. I wouldnt mind knowing any other suggestions.
Mate I have just done this with my new board. I used advice I found on seabreeze. Was a little anxious but worked amazing..
Use turps and a old towel. The process and steps can be found on here...sounds tricky but my deck and residue just peeled off with no trouble.
This is the trick: put some solvent on a cloth, and apply and tape a plastic sheet on top if it for 10-15mn to let it act.
The glue comes out effortless.
Be careful to never use acetone, which will destroy the board (created invisible micro cracks). Solvent F is ggod.
This is the trick: put some solvent on a cloth, and apply and tape a plastic sheet on top if it for 10-15mn to let it act.
The glue comes out effortless.
Be careful to never use acetone, which will destroy the board (created invisible micro cracks). Solvent F is ggod.
I use turps saturated towels on the deck pad and cover with black plastic then leave overnight. You should be able to peel the grip straight off next morning.Then clean up any glue residue with leftover turps on a rag. I have used this technique a few times on a PSH and a Naish SUP and it didn't damage the boards in anyway.
Waz
For what it is worth, I just tried this on a Deep Minion (with the deck pad they are now supplying with their boards) - it sort-of worked. The deck grip peeled right off - leaving a layer of plastic (almost like cellophane) with glue underneath it. With the aid of a hair dryer I peeled off the plastic - leaving the layer of glue. Then I re-applied the towel soaked in turps which dissolved the glued. But then I had to scrape it all off... Messy and time consuming but better than the alternative...
I use turps saturated towels on the deck pad and cover with black plastic then leave overnight.
Normally, 10 minutes is sufficient.
Fanatic deck pads seem to be glued on with a glue, rather than the usual 3m type film. The decked edges on a Fanatic board seem to have no movement that normally can be seen with grip that used the 3m type film.
I took the deck off and replaced it when my 2-piece Allwave was repaired and the replacement 3mm smooth deck grip from deckgrips.com* is great. I tried to soak it with turps but still ended up with hours of scraping . It was as if the turps did not soak into the glue.
I am now looking at a new Allwave (LTD construction) but do not like the standard bumpy deckgrip. I am thinking of a retrofit of new grip on a brand new board.
Has the "turps'n'towel" method worked for anyone with a Fanatic board?
*a good Aussie company from Byron.
Fanatic deck pads seem to be glued on with a glue, rather than the usual 3m type film. The decked edges on a Fanatic board seem to have no movement that normally can be seen with grip that used the 3m type film.
I took the deck off and replaced it when my 2-piece Allwave was repaired and the replacement 3mm smooth deck grip from deckgrips.com* is great. I tried to soak it with turps but still ended up with hours of scraping . It was as if the turps did not soak into the glue.
I am now looking at a new Allwave (LTD construction) but do not like the standard bumpy deckgrip. I am thinking of a retrofit of new grip on a brand new board.
Has the "turps'n'towel" method worked for anyone with a Fanatic board?
*a good Aussie company from Byron.
Not sure why I was red-thumbed, but I second your comment about deckgrips.com. They were very helpful and friendly.
Fanatic deck pads seem to be glued on with a glue, rather than the usual 3m type film. The decked edges on a Fanatic board seem to have no movement that normally can be seen with grip that used the 3m type film.
I took the deck off and replaced it when my 2-piece Allwave was repaired and the replacement 3mm smooth deck grip from deckgrips.com* is great. I tried to soak it with turps but still ended up with hours of scraping . It was as if the turps did not soak into the glue.
I am now looking at a new Allwave (LTD construction) but do not like the standard bumpy deckgrip. I am thinking of a retrofit of new grip on a brand new board.
Has the "turps'n'towel" method worked for anyone with a Fanatic board?
*a good Aussie company from Byron.
Not sure why I was red-thumbed, but I second your comment about deckgrips.com. They were very helpful and friendly.
I believe you were red thumbed due to the advise of using heat gun, not the best advise really. Turps, towel is enough.
Fanatic deck pads seem to be glued on with a glue, rather than the usual 3m type film. The decked edges on a Fanatic board seem to have no movement that normally can be seen with grip that used the 3m type film.
I took the deck off and replaced it when my 2-piece Allwave was repaired and the replacement 3mm smooth deck grip from deckgrips.com* is great. I tried to soak it with turps but still ended up with hours of scraping . It was as if the turps did not soak into the glue.
I am now looking at a new Allwave (LTD construction) but do not like the standard bumpy deckgrip. I am thinking of a retrofit of new grip on a brand new board.
Has the "turps'n'towel" method worked for anyone with a Fanatic board?
*a good Aussie company from Byron.
Not sure why I was red-thumbed, but I second your comment about deckgrips.com. They were very helpful and friendly.
I believe you were red thumbed due to the advise of using heat gun, not the best advise really. Turps, towel is enough.
Thanks Mick - but perhaps people should just say so - it is a bit of a mystery otherwise. Not sure how else to get it off.
This is the trick: put some solvent on a cloth, and apply and tape a plastic sheet on top if it for 10-15mn to let it act.
The glue comes out effortless.
Be careful to never use acetone, which will destroy the board (created invisible micro cracks). Solvent F is ggod.
acetone is really good for dissolving the contact adhesives on boards.
It may bugger up some lower quality paints but it will not affect the epoxy used in making a SUP, nor the 2K paints used on a quality board.
This is the stuff I was referring to. 15 minutes of turps/towel got the deck grip off the clear (super tough) cellophane material, but another 15 hours of turps/towel had no effect on this stuff. A little bit of heat assistance made it possible to pull it off, leaving a layer of glue. 15 minutes of turps/towel dissolved the glue which could then be scraped off with a plastic spatula.
acetone is really good for dissolving the contact adhesives on boards.
The issue with acetone is that, although it doesn't dissolve the epoxy resin itself, it dissolves the various addons that are added to modern resins (for UV protection, controlling hardening times, controling toxic emissions...), leaving microcracks in the resin that can induce porosities and structural weakness.
I have seen with my own eyes somebody messing up the graphics painted on the blank under clear resin by a removing a tar stain with acetone. Even with this quick application, the acetone was able to go through the resin (though the cracks created) and dissolve the paint on the blank.
BTW it was one of a first board of a then young shaper, Ron House (that by now is a pionnier of SUP shaping), that made a summer internship at Barland to shape some sailboards.
Plus, acetone is extremely toxic, burns the skin, and goes through the skin to destroy your internal organs, especially the liver (which for most of us is already under regular attack of alcohol :-) )
PS: useful trick: when buying a second hand board, ask the owner if you can use acetone to clean it. If he says yes, then don't buy it! :-)
I removed the deck pad of a CoastRunner today using the turps and towel method and it just pulled straight off after 15-minutes. It left behind the contact adhesive that was used to secure the pad but I just continued with the turps and towel method on the contact adhesive and it allowed it to soften and be scrapped off with a palstic scraper.