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Summer Sessions - Don't get all hung up on board length

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Created by supthecreek 2 months ago, 20 Sep 2024
supthecreek
2627 posts
20 Sep 2024 7:43PM
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I absolutely LOVE Summer sessions!
Clean, warm and incredibly fun

3 size of the Sunova Ghost were ridden - 8'8 - 8'10 and 9'1
Conditions were only slightly different winds or wave size, all average Summer surf on Cape Cod
Honestly, I had to check clip dates and look back to see what size I was riding because I literally can't tell by watching them.
I label the first few clips with the size ridden... from then on, try to see if you can tell (if you want to know about a particular clip just ask using the start time (aka 2:14) and I'll look it up

My point:
Don't get all hung up on 4" of board length... on a good design you can achieve the same performance on a board that suits your personal comfort level!!

Saya suka SUP
NSW, 45 posts
21 Sep 2024 7:24AM
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94kg..is that the lightest you've been in awhile?
love your content, as always.

supthecreek
2627 posts
21 Sep 2024 8:14AM
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Saya suka SUP said..
94kg..is that the lightest you've been in awhile?
love your content, as always.


Thanks Saya suka, I appreciate that!
Yes.... lightest I have been in 40 years.
I spent a lifetime believing the lies.... "eat low fat, low calorie" and struggled the endless diet nightmare of tasteless food.
Went Carnivore and am loving life, getting more fit and feeling younger and stronger every day.... simply by eating everything I have been told not to eat

theSeb
296 posts
21 Sep 2024 1:05PM
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Great to hear and thanks for the vid, Rick. You are an inspiration to us groms in our forties.

Steveo1
NSW, 130 posts
21 Sep 2024 6:48PM
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Good advice on board's and food. Surf forever Rick.

Hoppo3228
VIC, 776 posts
22 Sep 2024 12:45AM
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supthecreek said..

Saya suka SUP said..
94kg..is that the lightest you've been in awhile?
love your content, as always.



Thanks Saya suka, I appreciate that!
Yes.... lightest I have been in 40 years.
I spent a lifetime believing the lies.... "eat low fat, low calorie" and struggled the endless diet nightmare of tasteless food.
Went Carnivore and am loving life, getting more fit and feeling younger and stronger every day.... simply by eating everything I have been told not to eat


Ricko - Great stuff.

My fiance was vegatarian/vegan for over 20 yrs. She was then diagnosed with incurable lymphoma (cancer) 8 years ago. Stage 3. Tumors were found in the neck/chest/stomach and spine. After spending countless hours really looking into physiology / nutrition as well as some botany, I convinced her to go full carnivore - not without lots of resistance however. She's now been completely cancer free for over 6 years. When we get her check ups the Prof says whatever you are doing - keep doing it - but he doesn't believe diet makes a difference. I asked him in his training to be an oncology professor how much time he spent studying nutrition - he said 3 days. Says it all really.

supthecreek
2627 posts
22 Sep 2024 12:13PM
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Hoppo3228 said..


supthecreek said..



Saya suka SUP said..
94kg..is that the lightest you've been in awhile?
love your content, as always.





Thanks Saya suka, I appreciate that!
Yes.... lightest I have been in 40 years.
I spent a lifetime believing the lies.... "eat low fat, low calorie" and struggled the endless diet nightmare of tasteless food.
Went Carnivore and am loving life, getting more fit and feeling younger and stronger every day.... simply by eating everything I have been told not to eat




Ricko - Great stuff.

My fiance was vegatarian/vegan for over 20 yrs. She was then diagnosed with incurable lymphoma (cancer) 8 years ago. Stage 3. Tumors were found in the neck/chest/stomach and spine. After spending countless hours really looking into physiology / nutrition as well as some botany, I convinced her to go full carnivore - not without lots of resistance however. She's now been completely cancer free for over 6 years. When we get her check ups the Prof says whatever you are doing - keep doing it - but he doesn't believe diet makes a difference. I asked him in his training to be an oncology professor how much time he spent studying nutrition - he said 3 days. Says it all really.



Yes... absolutely insane how modern medicine pays fails to understand the value of real Nutrition.
So stoked to hear that Carnivore worked out for your lady!

Since January, I have spent 3-5 hours a day studying the science around Carnivore as well as Keto and how they are different from the standard "Healthy" diet .... it is an exciting time watching "Functional Medicine" focus on prevention and cure rather than managing illness.
At this rate I'll be surfing for a long time to come!
Stronger at 76 than I was at 56!



colas
5091 posts
22 Sep 2024 1:11PM
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supthecreek said..
focus on prevention and cure rather than managing illness.




On this subject, I discovered that current studies seem to show that the human body has a kind of a fixed "quota of calories" to spend each day, whether you exercise or not. Tribes walking 9km per day were spending the same amount of calories than office workers glued to their seats.

This explains why workout does not make you lose weight: you just assign a bigger part of your quota to muscles, but the total calories consumed do not vary.
However, there is a huge beneficial side-effect: the body dispatches the remaining calories quota to all the organs and systems, that then spend them into useless, and most often bad functions: for instance our immune system may go "trigger happy" and spend this extra energy in attacking our own body via inflammation, allergies and auto-immune diseases.

Thus exercise is a way to prevent our body to misuse our daily calories spending quota.

A nice "Kurzgesagt" video explaining this:

bobajob
QLD, 1535 posts
23 Sep 2024 1:33PM
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Select to expand quote
supthecreek said..

Hoppo3228 said..



supthecreek said..




Saya suka SUP said..
94kg..is that the lightest you've been in awhile?
love your content, as always.






Thanks Saya suka, I appreciate that!
Yes.... lightest I have been in 40 years.
I spent a lifetime believing the lies.... "eat low fat, low calorie" and struggled the endless diet nightmare of tasteless food.
Went Carnivore and am loving life, getting more fit and feeling younger and stronger every day.... simply by eating everything I have been told not to eat





Ricko - Great stuff.

My fiance was vegatarian/vegan for over 20 yrs. She was then diagnosed with incurable lymphoma (cancer) 8 years ago. Stage 3. Tumors were found in the neck/chest/stomach and spine. After spending countless hours really looking into physiology / nutrition as well as some botany, I convinced her to go full carnivore - not without lots of resistance however. She's now been completely cancer free for over 6 years. When we get her check ups the Prof says whatever you are doing - keep doing it - but he doesn't believe diet makes a difference. I asked him in his training to be an oncology professor how much time he spent studying nutrition - he said 3 days. Says it all really.




Yes... absolutely insane how modern medicine pays fails to understand the value of real Nutrition.
So stoked to hear that Carnivore worked out for your lady!

Since January, I have spent 3-5 hours a day studying the science around Carnivore as well as Keto and how they are different from the standard "Healthy" diet .... it is an exciting time watching "Functional Medicine" focus on prevention and cure rather than managing illness.
At this rate I'll be surfing for a long time to come!
Stronger at 76 than I was at 56!




Hey STC, if this is a recent photo of you, I've got to say that you are looking really fit! Well done in finding what really works for you.
After my bypass surgery I ate the basically the Mediterranean diet, no salt or sugar and that worked for me although I've been slipping a bit lately and eating a bit more sugary / high carb food and noticed the weight starting to gain so am cutting that crap out again.
I have been toying with the idea of adding more lean meat into the diet but sat fat is my big enemy so I would have to be selective, no bacon! I'm not sure I could go full carnivore, I love my fruit and vegies too much!
But yeah, good for you thats awesome!!

supthecreek
2627 posts
23 Sep 2024 7:37PM
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Thanks bobajob!
Yes, that picture was from Sept 10th.... still have a lot more weight to lose, but I am getting there
More than that, I am healing my body is so many meaningful ways.


Jakdog
4 posts
24 Sep 2024 3:39AM
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supthecreek said..
I absolutely LOVE Summer sessions!
Clean, warm and incredibly fun

3 size of the Sunova Ghost were ridden - 8'8 - 8'10 and 9'1
Conditions were only slightly different winds or wave size, all average Summer surf on Cape Cod
Honestly, I had to check clip dates and look back to see what size I was riding because I literally can't tell by watching them.
I label the first few clips with the size ridden... from then on, try to see if you can tell (if you want to know about a particular clip just ask using the start time (aka 2:14) and I'll look it up

My point:
Don't get all hung up on 4" of board length... on a good design you can achieve the same performance on a board that suits your personal comfort level!!



Nice video thanks mate. Curious as to how tall are you and whether taller people need bigger boards as opposed to weight?

supthecreek
2627 posts
24 Sep 2024 10:51AM
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Select to expand quote
Jakdog said..

supthecreek said..
I absolutely LOVE Summer sessions!
Clean, warm and incredibly fun

3 size of the Sunova Ghost were ridden - 8'8 - 8'10 and 9'1
Conditions were only slightly different winds or wave size, all average Summer surf on Cape Cod
Honestly, I had to check clip dates and look back to see what size I was riding because I literally can't tell by watching them.
I label the first few clips with the size ridden... from then on, try to see if you can tell (if you want to know about a particular clip just ask using the start time (aka 2:14) and I'll look it up

My point:
Don't get all hung up on 4" of board length... on a good design you can achieve the same performance on a board that suits your personal comfort level!!




Nice video thanks mate. Curious as to how tall are you and whether taller people need bigger boards as opposed to weight?


Thanks Jakdog, I appreciate that!
I am 5'10, so pretty average height.

I do give special consideration to people who are taller, because it raises the center of gravity, and depending on build, it can be quite a dramatic difference.
Height, age, fitness and skill level are all important factors in the equation beside the standard weight/volume.

I generally like to have a solid conversation with taller SUPsters to work out the best size for them.
My buddy needs a wider board than most at 6' 11"


backbeach
NSW, 125 posts
27 Sep 2024 5:11PM
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Hey Rick thanks for ur inspiring work I really dig it and makes me embrace getting older and maintaining a surfing lifestyle.
Getting back to your intro comments re not getting hung up on 4" length difference on quality boards and then demonstrate same via your video (walkin the talk;-)-how much of that equates to other factors beyond board design.
First and foremost would be skillset and then style-elements which you've got a poo tonne of but is covert behind your casual style.
Devon Howard or Harley Ingleby are good examples of that in obviously different formats.
There's other factors like local wave and conditions knowledge, fin choices and even how the mojo flows on the day, we could probs pontificate endlessly.
Then the $64 question is what's the STC take home message on the difference between the 8'8 - 8'10 and 9'1 beyond go with the flow?

supthecreek
2627 posts
29 Sep 2024 9:32AM
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backbeach said..
Hey Rick thanks for ur inspiring work I really dig it and makes me embrace getting older and maintaining a surfing lifestyle.
Getting back to your intro comments re not getting hung up on 4" length difference on quality boards and then demonstrate same via your video (walkin the talk;-)-how much of that equates to other factors beyond board design.
First and foremost would be skillset and then style-elements which you've got a poo tonne of but is covert behind your casual style.
Devon Howard or Harley Ingleby are good examples of that in obviously different formats.
There's other factors like local wave and conditions knowledge, fin choices and even how the mojo flows on the day, we could probs pontificate endlessly.
Then the $64 question is what's the STC take home message on the difference between the 8'8 - 8'10 and 9'1 beyond go with the flow?


Thanks backbeach!
My current favorite is the 8'10 because it is solid and comfortable for me and I get easy performance out of it.
The 8'8 is a bit more work and turns can be snappier, but in general I only feel a performance advantage on an occasional session. Mostly I find that when I surf the 8'8 I tend to over amp a bit, trying to win my heat.... so I end up a bit jerky and out of sync. Sometimes, when the waves a weaker or choppy, I grab the 9'1 and actually get improved performance because it gives me the added glide speed in softer sections, that allows better turns.

I used to ride a lot of different boards, but every time I use something else, I am let down.... so I end up back on a Ghost.

Took the 8'10 out at dawn and walked off into the mist which didn't film well.




subber
76 posts
29 Sep 2024 11:33PM
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supthecreek said..
I used to ride a lot of different boards, but every time I use something else, I am let down.... so I end up back on a Ghost.
Took the 8'10 out at dawn and walked off into the mist which didn't film well.



Ahhhhh....The Ghost!

colas
5091 posts
2 Oct 2024 4:25PM
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Also, take into account the rider height.

I use a 7'10" board (2.39m), but since I am 5'6" (1.67m), it is equivalent to a 9'4" (2.84m) board for a 6'6" guy.

Jakdog
4 posts
17 Oct 2024 1:41AM
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Select to expand quote
supthecreek said..

Jakdog said..


supthecreek said..
I absolutely LOVE Summer sessions!
Clean, warm and incredibly fun

3 size of the Sunova Ghost were ridden - 8'8 - 8'10 and 9'1
Conditions were only slightly different winds or wave size, all average Summer surf on Cape Cod
Honestly, I had to check clip dates and look back to see what size I was riding because I literally can't tell by watching them.
I label the first few clips with the size ridden... from then on, try to see if you can tell (if you want to know about a particular clip just ask using the start time (aka 2:14) and I'll look it up

My point:
Don't get all hung up on 4" of board length... on a good design you can achieve the same performance on a board that suits your personal comfort level!!





Nice video thanks mate. Curious as to how tall are you and whether taller people need bigger boards as opposed to weight?



Thanks Jakdog, I appreciate that!
I am 5'10, so pretty average height.

I do give special consideration to people who are taller, because it raises the center of gravity, and depending on build, it can be quite a dramatic difference.
Height, age, fitness and skill level are all important factors in the equation beside the standard weight/volume.

I generally like to have a solid conversation with taller SUPsters to work out the best size for them.
My buddy needs a wider board than most at 6' 11"



Holy crap. That is a big man right there.. Cheers mate



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