i see so many leg ropes attached incorrectly at a shop level and it astounds me people really dont know how to do this , i am constantly re attach them for people down the beach
The idea is to tie this rope / cord as short as possible
Best practice is to use the double loop , where you simply push the rope through / under plug bar / you now have 2 loops , put velcro webbing through both loops, put knot under velcro and webbing. again some tweaks with loop size prior to are required to minimise the length of the rope / cord length to get it as short as possible
Ps ill would post a couple of photos ............but im SUPen in remote location
Here's a few pics for ya mate...
#1 below - NO! (single loop over rail NOT GOOD)
#2 below - railsaver won't even touch rail let alone save it!
#3 below Yes! - double loop to shorten distance to rail
#4 below - you can see that railsaver might actually do its job here and not chop into rail or any body parts that get caught between.
Tryfan, good pics making the point, but it also shows a flaw.
You have a carbon wrap around the rail to also act as a rail saver, but the carbon wrap should be adjacent to the plugs so they are in the same area as the rail saver strap, but the strap misses the carbon. Close, but no cigar.
Tryfan, good pics making the point, but it also shows a flaw.
You have a carbon wrap around the rail to also act as a rail saver, but the carbon wrap should be adjacent to the plugs so they are in the same area as the rail saver strap, but the strap misses the carbon. Close, but no cigar.
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Obviously you have to be able to safely grab your leg rope
Your leg rope is attached to your board via a small piece of rope / cord, that is supplied and or is a single loop and or stitched to the leg rope rail saver which is the webbing
THIS LOOP SHOULD NOT BE LARGE ENOUGH TO GET YOUR FINGERS IN AND IF IT IS YOU HAVE INCORRECTLY ATTACHED IT
i see so many leg ropes attached incorrectly at a shop level and it astounds me people really dont know how to do this , i am constantly re attach them for people down the beach
The idea is to tie this rope / cord as short as possible
The first reason is if the loop of cord is long it can act like a knife to butter impacting the rails slicing and crushing them when under tension from a fall
The webbing is designed to distribute the apparent pressure over and around the rail on a fall
Grabbing this webbing is an essential tool for you to use for controlling your board from getting away from you / best done when the board is upside down and no large loop to potentially get your fingers caught in
So
Do not attach your your rope / cord around the the leg rope plug bar with a single loop slipknot you often also expose a large loop and knot on the side, this knot will also impact your rail causing damage hand fingers board.
ALL LEG ROPE / CORD KNOTS SHOULD NOT BE EXPOSED AND TUCK NEATLY UNDER THE ASSOCIATED VELCRO WEBBING / RAIL SAVER
The slip knot is ok as long as you can make it shot enough to attach legrope / which is often not the case and your knot is not exposed.
Best practice is to use the double loop , where you simply push the rope through / under plug bar / you now have 2 loops , put velcro webbing through both loops, put knot under velcro and webbing. again some tweaks with loop size prior to are required to minimise the length of the rope / cord length to get it as short as possible
Also check this rope regularly for wear and tear stretch they are to easy and cheap to replace. When it does snap it wont be a sore finger it will be a bloody long swim
Ps ill would post a couple of photos ............but im SUPen in remote location
It also pays to remember that sometimes, even if you've followed all the tips, all the best advice, and have everything perfect, sh1t just happens. Skin and bone will always come off second best.
Tryfan, good pics making the point, but it also shows a flaw.
You have a carbon wrap around the rail to also act as a rail saver, but the carbon wrap should be adjacent to the plugs so they are in the same area as the rail saver strap, but the strap misses the carbon. Close, but no cigar.
Not sure why the carbon strips are on the rails of this board, but i'm guessing they were thinking more for flexion/torsion than rail protection. If they were to protect rails from leggie damage they wouldn't be where they are, they'd be where they're not. Lokahi haven't continued with the carbon strips on their 2016 models though, so whatever it was there for wasn't working.
I'd like to think that the carbon strips were designed for shredding legends like myself for when i land my 20ft airs the carbon in the tail lessens the impact of the flex/torsion on the board's tail so it doesn't slap the water so hard it snaps in two from my legendary shredding feats of aerial acrobatics...
Disclaimer:
Yeah, nup
I usually grab the board by the rails down near the tail and sink the tail as the wave hits in a sort of weird reverse duck dive, it works well to minimise the distance you get dragged and it also means you are at your board and can swing around and start prone paddling as soon as the wave has passed, with this technique it is also easy to ditch the board if the wave is too big for you to hold it, basically just let go and keep hands clear, I would definitely not want my hand in any tail handle,nose handle or leggy loop, if you can't hold it by the rails then trying to hold it any other way is just going to cause damage, but yes sometimes sh#t happens
I usually grab the board by the rails down near the tail and sink the tail as the wave hits in a sort of weird reverse duck dive, it works well to minimise the distance you get dragged and it also means you are at your board and can swing around and start prone paddling as soon as the wave has passed, with this technique it is also easy to ditch the board if the wave is too big for you to hold it, basically just let go and keep hands clear, I would definitely not want my hand in any tail handle,nose handle or leggy loop, if you can't hold it by the rails then trying to hold it any other way is just going to cause damage, but yes sometimes sh#t happens
Sliced my hand a few years ago doing this, I was just a bit too slow to lift the nose up and wave pushed board back at me. I still do it tho if I can't get up onto board quick enough coz board usually goes up and over easily.
Brenno is right about the sh|t tho, and sometimes our instinctive reactions don't pan out like we'd hope (like the time I thought leaping over the nose was a good idea...)
Tryfan, good pics making the point, but it also shows a flaw.
You have a carbon wrap around the rail to also act as a rail saver, but the carbon wrap should be adjacent to the plugs so they are in the same area as the rail saver strap, but the strap misses the carbon. Close, but no cigar.
Not sure why the carbon strips are on the rails of this board, but i'm guessing they were thinking more for flexion/torsion than rail protection. If they were to protect rails from leggie damage they wouldn't be where they are, they'd be where they're not. Lokahi haven't continued with the carbon strips on their 2016 models though, so whatever it was there for wasn't working.
I'd like to think that the carbon strips were designed for shredding legends like myself for when i land my 20ft airs the carbon in the tail lessens the impact of the flex/torsion on the board's tail so it doesn't slap the water so hard it snaps in two from my legendary shredding feats of aerial acrobatics...
Disclaimer:
Yeah, nup
Tar for your follow up ...............POST
The carbon wrap is there to strengthen the rail from the sole of your foot when your maxing out your bottom turn with your toes are wrapped around the rail often this area will quickly go soft under your foot pressure cracking or splitting the rail ...........extra strength there is great
i have just had to completely rebuild a bottom turn rail as it went completly soft and spongie as all fk and was pissing me off. I was only a matter of time before it cracked and the water started quirting in / bring on extra carbon wrap in this critical area.
Interesting as you could extend it a tad more to help protect the rail but its probably strong enough (who wants a heavy tailed board / and then theres the extra costs but hey GLASSED TO LAST OR GLASSED TO BLAST
Where the carbon stops,is often where they break ........but thats ofen through the middle areas ,,,,,,,,,your board looks sick
I got a question for you
[b]Which plugg are you using when riding forehand of backhand and im Guessing but calling you a natural footer
Yep, carbon tail rails to increase the board's reactivity apparently.
More precisely, Carbon rails allows you to print in your marketing material that it improves reactivity :-)
I got a question for you
Which plugg are you using when riding forehand of backhand and im Guessing but calling you a natural footer
Your right I do surf in natural stance, but main reason on boards with two plugs i would use right hand side leash plug is for when leggie stretches and loads up from wave (or me) pulling it back, if plug is on right hand side the board usually pulls more to that side (unless it's upside down) and I find it quicker to get up and onto my feet from that side. Like getting up onto a horse i guess.
Yep, carbon tail rails to increase the board's reactivity apparently.
More precisely, Carbon rails allows you to print in your marketing material that it improves reactivity :-)
I would have thought they may have said for 'reinforcement'
it made me curious when another post said they were there to act as a rail saver but not in the right position which I thought wasn't right so looked them up.
This brand isn't in Oz but apparently have a lot of dealers in Europe, are they very popular Colas?
Yep by attaching to one side or the other your board will release better from the surf when being skull dragged as the board is on an angle also when you pull it back it it turns to you won way or another better for you to climb back on
The drag from either side when riding a left and right hander is also effected , as minimal as this may be to the mear mortal it does occur ,but it is the thickness / lenght of the associated rail webbing saver and actual legg rope that is most noticeable
A thick 10mm 10 foot leg with a thick webbing creates lots of drag hence i personally perfer the calf attachment to my leg for SUPen for a couple of reasons ,
the first being it means 3 plus foot of this think legrope is not dragging in the water when paddling and and dragging on a wave face
The the thick style webbing / rail saver is easier to hang on to when getting worked and rips less at your hand and fingers when controlling your board preferably when upside down
The recovery for your leg rope is easy to reach as you just reach down the side of your body to find it and retrieve your board also if you collect some weed around the leggie its easier to grab and flick off
Also i find kicking and swimming a bit less restrictive
Disadvantages is the paddle can get hooked up more often and some people hate the pull when getting skull dragged from the calf
The thin shorter leggie reduces drag significantly especially in small to medium surf , but often comes with a thinner rail saver that seems to rip harder at your hand and fingers when you want to use it for controlling your board.
Obviously they are not as strong .........so the size and power of the surf you use them in is more critical to have them not stretch out
They will spring your board back to you twice a quick for recovery being shorter
The other point is the length of your leg rope in comparison to the size of the board you are riding ............it should be a tad longer than the board you are riding , this gives you the ability to stay clear from it especially diving of the front to avoid your body(especially legs knees and ankles) being clipped by the nose and or having it spring back into your face
Call it over kill but im traveling with 4 including an ankle
finger safe supen and dont play with fireworks overseas
Well said king of the point.
Does anyone know if there is 10mm 7'or 8' long with knee attachement leash
Because it would be accurate to the +100liters and sub 8' SUP to get that kind of leash ; up we said up here.
it made me curious when another post said they were there to act as a rail saver but not in the right position which I thought wasn't right so looked them up.
This brand isn't in Oz but apparently have a lot of dealers in Europe, are they very popular Colas?
These kind of reinforcements are great on prone shortboards because it is where you put your rear foot and push: it helps transmitting the foot force for reactivity, and spreading the force for durability. So it actually works, if you are advanced enough to put your rear foot there and crank it (something maybe not most SUP riders may feel). Note that on surfboards, the carbon strip is wider, to act as a foot pad.
Lokahi is a small brand by a local French Kite champion "Cyril Costes" in the north of France, that have I think the oldest French Kite shop ("Triple C"). They are made in China with a Chinese shaper, from what I could read in a magazine ("Get Up") interview. They are not well known internationally, but have been present for quite some time now.
Well said king of the point.
Does anyone know if there is 10mm 7'or 8' long with knee attachement leash
Because it would be accurate to the +100liters and sub 8' SUP to get that kind of leash ; up we said up here.
Knee / calf in the big wave 10mm leggie 10 foot are hard to find i know of it in 9mm Wavehunter which **** stretched out first beating ... Balian do a variety thicknesses calf / ankle , no calf bigwave , i just had Balian 10mm one made up / should say extended the padding and velcro to fit calf ........ at this size they go stud connection not allen key for rail saver / and or ankle /calf attachment
There is a lot of brands and variety out there but as you said KAMI the one you really want seem to not be made or carried through many shops
Whats a surf shop with outf a variety of Leg ropes and fins (gotta get ya colours right ) cloths shop even down town Bali got sweet fa
OH some of the brands are interchangeable with calf / ankle and webbing rail savers via small allan key ,which works well ,if ya leggie stuffed / broken snapped etc etc .......... parts can be retrieved
just dont get ya fingers in a knot
I got out today locally and met a big english guy on a mal who got talking and offered me some advice. Dont grab the leggy loop and held his hand up minus most of his middle finger! I said holy ****, and mentioned that I knew about that because of this thread.
Komunity Project have new leashes with neoprene handles next to the railsaver
komunityproject.com/product/kp-sup-coil-10/
In small waves such a handle would help, but I don't know that you should use it in bigger waves. Apart from anything else, the handle does not seem to be oriented correctly given the direction of the forces on the board. Just my opinion.
Does anyone use coiled leggies in surf?
I used to use a coiled leggy on surf but it would get tangled a lot and caught up on my paddle especially when top turning. I now use a balin 8 foot storm leash...it's a great leash and keeps board nice and close...
Ouch nasty.
I see a lot of people feed the loop of cord through the leash plug on the board then back through itself to leave a long loop of cord, this can allow fingers to get easily caught and also in some cases (particularly on surfboards) the cord can cut cut through the rail of the board.
The loop of cord should be threaded through the leash plug then the railsaver on the legrope past through both loops of cord so that the cord is doubled and kept as short as possible, reducing the chance of catching fingers.
Fingers can also be injured from getting jammed between the railsaver (flat material) and the tail of the board, it you are going to grab the leggie/railsaver do it so your fingers are clear of the rail and make sure leggie is not wrapped around hand or fingers.
As mentioned though if the surf is big you are better off just letting the board go.
What he said
i see so many leg ropes attached incorrectly at a shop level and it astounds me people really dont know how to do this , i am constantly re attach them for people down the beach
The idea is to tie this rope / cord as short as possible
Best practice is to use the double loop , where you simply push the rope through / under plug bar / you now have 2 loops , put velcro webbing through both loops, put knot under velcro and webbing. again some tweaks with loop size prior to are required to minimise the length of the rope / cord length to get it as short as possible
Ps ill would post a couple of photos ............but im SUPen in remote location
Here's a few pics for ya mate...
#1 below - NO! (single loop over rail NOT GOOD)
#2 below - railsaver won't even touch rail let alone save it!
#3 below Yes! - double loop to shorten distance to rail
#4 below - you can see that railsaver might actually do its job here and not chop into rail or any body parts that get caught between.
I thought with double plugs you would put ropes through both so if one snaps you still have the other
"sometimes our instinctive reactions don't pan out like we'd hope (like the time I thought leaping over the nose was a good idea...)"
Yep got smacked once in the guts and once on the hip...leggie doesn't let you do this :)
"sometimes our instinctive reactions don't pan out like we'd hope (like the time I thought leaping over the nose was a good idea...)"
Yep got smacked once in the guts and once on the hip...leggie doesn't let you do this :)
Yep - caught this one on vid. Could not breath for a while...
I pinch the railsaver or leg rope between thumb and index finger, most of the time I can hold the board in place.
I pinch the railsaver or leg rope between thumb and index finger, most of the time I can hold the board in place.
You mean, because that's the only two finger you still have after years of grabbing the railsaver? :=)