Anyone else been properly or partially sup barelled and can describe the feeling?
I've had a few close calls (never made it out of one), but had a really unique moment when going out in low tide heavy hollow 2.2m waves the other day. I pulled in to one and just watched the whole face open up as I dropped in. Rather than trying to go down and back up vertical for a hack the wave just called for me to cling to the wall and tuck in.
It felt like such a surreal moment with the board awkwardly pitched at such an accute angle slightly sliding down while going horizontal on a near vertical face. I had my am1 fins in and felt on that verge of both sticking and unsticking from the wave!
For awhile (what seemed like eternity) the wall just kept going on and slowing folding over- beckoning me to stay on it's face.
Then all of a sudden the wave just started to close out 3m in front of me and without any time to get out, had air-flipped me in to the pit with its bowling lip. I vividly remember those breif few mili-seconds of nothing-ness as I was in the air (not on the wave and not on the board) trying to grasp a breath knowing what was going to happen next.
I thought I had come out relatively unscathed until having a sore neck for the past 2 days!
Anyone else been properly or partially sup barelled and can describe the feeling?
I've had a few close calls (never made it out of one), but had a really unique moment when going out in low tide heavy hollow 2.2m waves the other day. I pulled in to one and just watched the whole face open up as I dropped in. Rather than trying to go down and back up vertical for a hack the wave just called for me to cling to the wall and tuck in.
It felt like such a surreal moment with the board awkwardly pitched at such an accute angle slightly sliding down while going horizontal on a near vertical face. I had my am1 fins in and felt on that verge of both sticking and unsticking from the wave!
For awhile (what seemed like eternity) the wall just kept going on and slowing folding over- beckoning me to stay on it's face.
Then all of a sudden the wave just started to close out 3m in front of me and without any time to get out, had air-flipped me in to the pit with its bowling lip. I vividly remember those breif few mili-seconds of nothing-ness as I was in the air (not on the wave and not on the board) trying to grasp a breath knowing what was going to happen next.
I thought I had come out relatively unscathed until having a sore neck for the past 2 days!
Here you go, this was a while ago. The feeling is pretty **** and you won't like it !! hahah
pretty bloody good - what board is that?
10 foot Smik.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/Review/SMIK-Style-Lord-10-x-29-149l?page=1
Anyone else been properly or partially sup barelled and can describe the feeling?
I've had a few close calls (never made it out of one), but had a really unique moment when going out in low tide heavy hollow 2.2m waves the other day. I pulled in to one and just watched the whole face open up as I dropped in. Rather than trying to go down and back up vertical for a hack the wave just called for me to cling to the wall and tuck in.
It felt like such a surreal moment with the board awkwardly pitched at such an accute angle slightly sliding down while going horizontal on a near vertical face. I had my am1 fins in and felt on that verge of both sticking and unsticking from the wave!
For awhile (what seemed like eternity) the wall just kept going on and slowing folding over- beckoning me to stay on it's face.
Then all of a sudden the wave just started to close out 3m in front of me and without any time to get out, had air-flipped me in to the pit with its bowling lip. I vividly remember those breif few mili-seconds of nothing-ness as I was in the air (not on the wave and not on the board) trying to grasp a breath knowing what was going to happen next.
I thought I had come out relatively unscathed until having a sore neck for the past 2 days!
Benji I feel your pleasure (& pain) and all i can say is that for the last 50 years of mainly shortboard surfing barrels and now sup barrels, the sup barrels are better, harder, faster more exciting and require more skill.
I previously have had only beach break close out barrels but recently had two great sucky reef / backdoor type barrels that were outstanding / fantastic this maybe due to riding smaller lighter sups (7.7 starboard & 7.2 custom:-)
Have had a few almost and a few head dips or very shallow versions of Barrels.
Had one session this winter on a metro beach, one of those sessions where you just pinch yourself - had a decent stretch of beach with no one around with an epic bank - a large rip either side of me seemed to keep the masses at bay.
Took off on a couple expecting to straighten out and bugger me they bowled up and threw a lip, held on for dear life and made 2 of them.
Really felt the quad lock in during that session.