recent swell

Yesterday was big and wild, so I ventured further afield - 20 minutes south to a creek we havn't paddled for a while - was kinda hoping for a few runners up the mouth, but didn't happen


Hey I even deleted the foto and went into file and rotated it and pasted again - Bull****! Anyway, was too bumpy this morning and too crowded - nobody getting any good rides - a few terrifying out of control type ones tho - went out this arvo in the dying swell with minimal crowds - got two " Bombs" but no real wall to it - smaller ones ran thru but were slower as well - enjoyed myself! Steve ps : stating to feel at home on " sunova the one " - the board that has kept me surfing.

That is serious crowd - what percentage know what is going on? Felt lucky this arvo that there were a few inexperienced extras floating around, got a great wave, seemed like double ohead, but that might be because I got flogged - leggie snapped ( or actually the waist " leashlock " plastic bit broke. Swam about 150 meters throwing the paddle and chopping white water rinses on the way, still had 200 meters to go, But a young floater had my board and paddled it over with a smile - THANK YOU!