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DARTH said...laceys lane said..
73 kgs. I like a bit of foam theses days after sups and long boards.plus your always fighting a crowd
Plus the sweep I guess. seems a lot tho. I'm 80kgs and have just gone up to 31.1lt for my 6,3. Not fighting crowds and sweep either.
Surfed WA and the Goldie. Definitely want more foam foot for foot over East. Even when it's barreling it's tits off it doesn't have the same push as most of the WA beaches. The closest thing I have found to over east are a few beachies in bays out south east.
Over in the Goldie I gave up on the 35-37 litre boards I was surfing over here and went to 48. Now, on the reefs in the south west, I surf 46l and up.
I weigh 92 so a bit more than you light weights. But I agree with Lacey about shapers hiding foam better. I rode a 7' board last week at Lefties and was throwing turns like I haven't for awhile (this particular board hurts my crappy ankle) in chest to head high waves. It's a beautiful thing for a board to be able to snap in the pocket, bottom turn hack, into a barrel. I was redded to hell for being stoked about a good surf, but it was on a "fat pig". Clever shaper.
Said before, most people on either coast are deluding themselves in the amount of foam they surf. Foam is your friend.
But like a local shaper says, surfing is about how it feels, not necessarily about true performance so if a wafer feels good then I guess people are on the right board.
The waves Darth is hitting I would be looking to pull out either that 7' or one of the old 35-37l boards. Bit of rocker, finer rails, shorter rail lines.
That's why quivers are good.