That looks terrifying to me - he would have got an absolute smashing. Ouch.
This bloke should be dead...
Fark that
Can somebody tell me how big these waves are.
And don't gove that triple over head BS.
I want old school size I.e 30 feet,etc
30 plus easy I'd say closer to 40
And I up I reckon those guys are both on 10 foot boards
I stayed in Puerto in 2001 and its an amazing wave....the biggest we surfed it was maybe 4 times OH and that was plenty ****ing scary for me....I have got absolutly no idea how these guys throw themselves over the edge on waves like this
My local online surf reporters would call that 4 to 5 foot, possibly slightly larger on the south-facing beaches.
But I'd say more reasonable judges would add a zero to those numbers.
My local online surf reporters would call that 4 to 5 foot, possibly slightly larger on the south-facing beaches.
But I'd say more reasonable judges would add a zero to those numbers.
Funny, in our area we also have some "experts" like that.
They call the XXL award waves 15 foot and the wave face is measured as 30 by the judges!!
Bit of chest beating, me thinks!!! Or what's that other word? Oh yeah, Wankers!
Remember the cyclone pam swell?
That was fun but it went next level when it hit Mexico.
Here's a clip of Pascquales which is like porto Escondido's sister and can be pretty evil.
Had a nice stint there back in 1990 with a 6'8" and 7'2" Byrning spears mini quiver finding their limits.
Enjoy...sphincter puckering action...
Remember the cyclone pam swell?
That was fun but it went next level when it hit Mexico.
Here's a clip of Pascquales which is like porto Escondido's sister and can be pretty evil.
Had a nice stint there back in 1990 with a 6'8" and 7'2" Byrning spears mini quiver finding their limits.
Enjoy...sphincter puckering action...
Great big scary mothers. Would like to see them paddle in!!
“It’s Mexico at its most raw, and the waves are serious,” explains Koa Smith, who recently took a trip south with fellow Hawaiian chargers Billy Kemper and Koa Rothman. After looking at the charts, the crew had expected to find some hair-raising 8- to 10-foot barrels. But Pascuales has a knack for amplifying whatever comes its way, and by the time the south swell arrived, it had mutated into 20- to 30-foot walls of unpredictable beachbreak fury.
Five years ago there wouldn’t have been a question about how to tackle those conditions: either gas up a Jet Ski and wax your shortboard or find somewhere safe to hide until the swell dies down. But in the midst of the current paddle renaissance, the crew felt compelled to try scratching into a few under their own power. “That was our original plan,” says Kemper. “There was a window when I was the only person in the lineup and got about 10 waves in a row without a drop of water out of place. Everything came together in those few hours, and I realized I was probably having the best session of my life.”
—Billy Kemper “But it wasn’t like Jaws, where you know where the best waves are going to break and you know exactly where to sit. It’s a beachbreak, so you’re getting caught in rips, chasing waves, and taking 20-footers on the head. After paddling for a while, we realized using a ski would be the difference between catching one big bomb on a 9’0″ and having a good session or catching a hundred of them and having the best session of your life.” After that epiphany, their horsepower increased and so did their wave counts, and the trip turned into an all-you-can-surf barrel buffet. For three days straight, the swell kept growing and the conditions kept getting cleaner. Rip tides eased and the wind switched offshore, allowing the crew to take turns pulling into some of the biggest and most perfect tubes of their lives.
But it wasn’t all smiles and rainbows. Surfing maxed-out Pascuales always comes at a price, and everyone who caught waves paid in broken boards and broken bodies. “Every time you fall out there, you know it’s going to be bad,” says Rothman. “There were a couple of long hold-downs when I thought, ‘If I have to take one more of these things on the head, I’m not gonna make it,’ and the ski came just in time. It’s hard to keep surfing after wipeouts like those, but then you look out and see the best barrel you’ve ever seen, and you have to get right back out there.”
“It’s Mexico at its most raw, and the waves are serious,” explains Koa Smith, who recently took a trip south with fellow Hawaiian chargers Billy Kemper and Koa Rothman. After looking at the charts, the crew had expected to find some hair-raising 8- to 10-foot barrels. But Pascuales has a knack for amplifying whatever comes its way, and by the time the south swell arrived, it had mutated into 20- to 30-foot walls of unpredictable beachbreak fury.
Five years ago there wouldn’t have been a question about how to tackle those conditions: either gas up a Jet Ski and wax your shortboard or find somewhere safe to hide until the swell dies down. But in the midst of the current paddle renaissance, the crew felt compelled to try scratching into a few under their own power. “That was our original plan,” says Kemper. “There was a window when I was the only person in the lineup and got about 10 waves in a row without a drop of water out of place. Everything came together in those few hours, and I realized I was probably having the best session of my life.”
—Billy Kemper “But it wasn’t like Jaws, where you know where the best waves are going to break and you know exactly where to sit. It’s a beachbreak, so you’re getting caught in rips, chasing waves, and taking 20-footers on the head. After paddling for a while, we realized using a ski would be the difference between catching one big bomb on a 9’0″ and having a good session or catching a hundred of them and having the best session of your life.” After that epiphany, their horsepower increased and so did their wave counts, and the trip turned into an all-you-can-surf barrel buffet. For three days straight, the swell kept growing and the conditions kept getting cleaner. Rip tides eased and the wind switched offshore, allowing the crew to take turns pulling into some of the biggest and most perfect tubes of their lives.
But it wasn’t all smiles and rainbows. Surfing maxed-out Pascuales always comes at a price, and everyone who caught waves paid in broken boards and broken bodies. “Every time you fall out there, you know it’s going to be bad,” says Rothman. “There were a couple of long hold-downs when I thought, ‘If I have to take one more of these things on the head, I’m not gonna make it,’ and the ski came just in time. It’s hard to keep surfing after wipeouts like those, but then you look out and see the best barrel you’ve ever seen, and you have to get right back out there.”
Will.watch that later,but loved the story and their thoughts.....crazy ****
When I was at Pascquales there was a row of shanty style wooden buildings along the beachfront.
I ended up staying at one of them where Momma Enriqeta would serve drinks and food. She had a square box about waist high made from concrete slabs in which she'd put beer and soft drinks in and the ice truck would deliver a block of ice each day and she'd cover it with a hessian sack. There were a few tables and benches to sit on and a hammock.
Dirt floor with mixed in with black sand from the beach. There was room out the back that had a few old beds in amongst the clutter and a wood fired stove off to the side.
In the evenings her husband Carlos would roll up in his ancient wooden sided farm truck with their eighten children (that's right 18) in the back and pick her up and they'd head to their home.
Myself and a couple of Kiwi surfers who were staying there would sells drinks to passers by for her.
Mostly the Federales patrolling the area (heavily armed with their machine guns) would be our customers, since there was still plenty of banditry in the area.
Not long before I arrived they had a shoot out with bandits in the street there in broad daylight.
For dinner we would hop on the local bus into town and buy a chicken and veggies from the local market for Enriqeta to cook up food for us.
Since she had no fridge we'd just leave it in the cooking pot until it was all finished, eventually, maybe by the next day, or so.
To shower after a surf there at least was a hose to hold over ones head while standing in the dirt yard.
Entertainment at night was spotting the huge rats that lived in holes in the sleeping area.
Then day time was filled with taking on what Pasquales would throw at us... and it was often plenty.