Recently Mac gave us his insightful post relating to how his surfing style did'nt allow him to be able to ride the log he recently aspired to and had purchased.
This brings to light yet another difference between longboarding and shortboard surfing. Looking at numerous "longboard" surfing videos highlights a distinct difference in surfing styles within the general concept of longboarding.
I was on the beach at One Mile Beach at Port Stephens in 1999 the day Colin McPhillips won his first world longboard title defeating a Brazilian surfer with a linked series of short board moves in one metre beach break waves. There was barely one distinct longboard identified move in the session. It could easily have been a surf off for a short board title. This and the resulting years gave rise to the recent resurgence in the art of logging as distinct from what had become the default competition HP style of longboarding.
I alternate between a 9' bamboo and carbon fibre HP longboard with a 2 + 1 fin setup, and a 10' traditional log with 50/50 rails with a single 10"inch Dolphin fin. There is a distinct difference in riding styles, requiring an equal distinct difference in mind set.
I continue to be a student in both riding styles, I have mastered neither and look forward to others thoughts. For what its worth I can only offer my insights.
HP 9' - I ride when 4'and over surf. I have a rubber pad on the fin end of the board. I shorten my 'pop ups 'so as to leave my back foot on the pad over the fins. This allows me to ride short board style driving bottom and top turns, re entries etc. I am still able to step up to put the board into trim when required.
Log 10'- Ridden under 4' usually on a higher tide. Utilise fade turns on take off, thrust my pop ups more forward and if conditions are right take a first step immediately after the pop leading to a step to the nose.
The most important difference I believe is in the initial stance after pop up. When riding the 9"HP I adopt the crouched lent over stance common in short board surfing, this gives greater leverage when driving a bottom and top turn.
Contrary to this is the stance when riding a log. This requires a more upright stance with a straight back and bent knees, centreing ones balance to allow a smooth cross step along the centre stringer.
These observations are only what I've been able to glean from the videos so generously shared here on seabreeze, Longboarding at my local break isnt widely the preferred mode of surfing. If I am out of wack in these observations I am completely open to other view points. Share your thoughts on the subject so we might all improve.
first post I have read in a couple of days,and what a cracker it is...sadly im rooted and off to bed...cant wait to reply and here the replies to this....great post again
I just cruise on the LB. That's what they are all about I reckon. Summer waist high glassy sliders. Makes days you normally wouldn't bother really fun.
very good topic.
for me with macs ex evo2 combining the two styles while riding one wave is really hard.
when you pull it off linking these moves pretty neatly its very satisfying
but as you say going for straight back bent knees into shortboard mode then back again - well its probably the thing that keeps me interested
great post ,,,,
" I was on the beach at One Mile Beach at Port Stephens in 1999 the day Colin McPhillips won his first world longboard title defeating a Brazilian surfer with a linked series of short board moves in one metre beach break waves. There was barely one distinct longboard identified move in the session. It could easily have been a surf off for a short board title. This and the resulting years gave rise to the recent resurgence in the art of logging as distinct from what had become the default competition HP style of Longboarding"
In a comp situation I guess if you are getting good scores all comp by surfing hp style hitting the lip etc then ya gunna stick to it especially for a world title especially in a beach break!
now if said world title was on a point I'd put my coin on tip time and traditional logging would be the higher point scorers.....u don't see many reo's from whoever wins the Noosa comp,
At least you can get a decade out of a traditional style log, a hp longboard is lucky if it lasts 6 months before it creases or snaps
Great post Stu as everyone else has said. Personally I am not a fan of HP Longboarding- when you see those vids of young blokes ripping on then I just wonder why they are not in a shortie. Especially how they could do the moves with more aggression, power and freedom. I love watching the old style when done well. Having said that when I am in a longboard there is a part of me that wants to do HP moves. I am a contradiction that's why I now just surf the log so I can not do those !
Many of the "competition " longboarders that win the top titles mainly ride small boards...the current WC falls into that category.BUT, those guys can LOG it too....depends on the waves, cant snap if your highly rockered LB doesn't catch the knee high slow moving stuff.
I agree with Ted - Whilst I can appreciate the skill of the HP longboarders, I can only cringe when I see them. Just ride a shortboard if that is the style of surfing you want to achieve. The shortboard, for the most part is perfectly catered to this style of surfing. There are far more negatives associated with attempting this on a 9' + board then there are positives.
I love to watch logging when it is done well - I also love logging when I am participating (Performed NOT WELL)...
Best advice I have ever heard - If its under head high ride a log, if it is over head high ride a short board.
Sounds simple enough for me
+1 with Ted.
I watched a Crescent Head comp a few years ago and the final had ex. and current world champs competing. Great surfers, but I found it repetitious and boring! Bottom hand turn, hit the shoulder, reo, bounce off the shoulder, figure 8 around off the white water, run to the nose, toes over for a second max, straighten up, start again!!! Wave after wave it was identical. Would have been more dynamic on short boards and more pleasing to the eye on logs.
A few of the comps now are single fin only, no hard edges on the board.
As you can guess, not a fan of performance mal riding.
+1 with Ted.
I watched a Crescent Head comp a few years ago and the final had ex. and current world champs competing. Great surfers, but I found it repetitious and boring! Bottom hand turn, hit the shoulder, reo, bounce off the shoulder, figure 8 around off the white water, run to the nose, toes over for a second max, straighten up, start again!!! Wave after wave it was identical. Would have been more dynamic on short boards and more pleasing to the eye on logs.
A few of the comps now are single fin only, no hard edges on the board.
As you can guess, not a fan of performance mal riding.
Agree. I'd rather watch long noserides and good footwork than someone attempting an arial on a 9 foot board. Sometimes it just looks ugly and forced. If I was going to get a longboard I'd get something that trims and runs like a log but with a more performance edge than a full blown log. Each to their own though.