Forums > Surfing Longboarding

im embarrassed to admit it

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Created by laceys lane > 9 months ago, 10 Jan 2015
climber
NSW, 1125 posts
11 Jan 2015 10:26AM
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At the risk of a thread hijack..............All this talk of the "search" for "the board"....seems we are all on the same one..the search that it.
Frustrated with the small wave ability of my last board, I finally bit the bullet.
Tried a few differing shapes / boards from friends .... biggest learning 46 yrs of shaping and surfing talent out does 4yrs of learning to surf.
Sat down with Greg and discussed the options ... my height, weight and fitness and my willingness to be open.
Without the knowledge of years of surfing, I became more reliant on the custom shaper knowledge .... but a shaper that surfs every day.

What I got rocks ... have surfed it twice every day this week ... only fault I have with it is its ability to very late drops....more likely a user issue (Poor tradesmen blaming his tools). Very user friendly on take off (read stable) nice and quick and with smaller fins in very very loose)
6'4" x 21 x 2 3/4...shallow rocker on the entry..big flat section in the middle with slight tail rocker over a double concave to spiral V exit (Thruster setup) (photo of the board is not mine...it is a "5'10" version..but you can get the idea..Greg made a couple out of the conversation)







laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
11 Jan 2015 9:40AM
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climber ive done alright on the return back to shorties. the mr puffer is fun and the pgerm I think will be that performance step up board.


the longer short or dare I say mid length is purely about being able to paddle up the qld points when its on or rough or sweepy.


there is nothing to be gained flogging yourself to death and when that 'wave 'appears being too tired to get it.


second most important thing is that I actually surfs well, can take on a bit of wild stuff without being a gun. these points have flatter fun sections to that gun is going to kill that fun off. same as a fun shape is a tough gig if its a bit hairy.


so in my mind I see the board as a bigger version of your standard thruster with out being too thick and not a toothpick.


now most bigger boards in the shops are for 'big' guy or are out and out guns or fun shapes.


that's why the much maligned mid length is such a hard board to get right.



a example is new years eve when vanders and myself hit up to 4 ft hollow cooly. yeah not big and the evo 2 went great but the above imaginary board would have given me the paddle power and then really be able to hammer it down the line

climber
NSW, 1125 posts
11 Jan 2015 11:10AM
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laceys lane said..
climber ive done alright on the return back to shorties. the mr puffer is fun and the pgerm I think will be that performance step up board.


the longer short or dare I say mid length is purely about being able to paddle up the qld points when its on or rough or sweepy.


there is nothing to be gained flogging yourself to death and when that 'wave 'appears being too tired to get it.


second most important thing is that I actually surfs well, can take on a bit of wild stuff without being a gun. these points have flatter fun sections to that gun is going to kill that fun off. same as a fun shape is a tough gig if its a bit hairy.


so in my mind I see the board as a bigger version of your standard thruster with out being too thick and not a toothpick.


now most bigger boards in the shops are for 'big' guy or are out and out guns or fun shapes.


that's why the much maligned mid length is such a hard board to get right.



a example is new years eve when vanders and myself hit up to 4 ft hollow cooly. yeah not big and the evo 2 went great but the above imaginary board would have given me the paddle power and then really be able to hammer it down the line


Absolutely agree LL...The board in the pic is now my small(er) wave board. I also have a std performance shorty, but in the quiver is a 7'3"x 21 x 2 3/4" mid length...It is aboard that I often think about parting with but never can. It was my first step down of mals three years ago as a board I could surf beach breaks with and still duck dive.
It did the job really well.....but it shines today as the board I jump on when a little tired or I am on the points here and need to "compete" for waves...but still want the driving performance. Great speed and still has the ability to be thrown around and can ride it to 4-6ft quite OK.
(Going to Broken Head next week....it is the first board on the roof)
cheers
G

Macaha
QLD, 21914 posts
11 Jan 2015 7:41PM
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laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
11 Jan 2015 7:51PM
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Macaha said..





Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
12 Jan 2015 8:27AM
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Do you have a Patagonia store up there...they usually stock Gerry's boards...minus the horrific Naish colour scheme....who don't you just ring starboard and tell them you want 6'10 x 21 x 2 3/8 666

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 10:30AM
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Tux said...
Do you have a Patagonia store up there...they usually stock Gerry's boards...minus the horrific Naish colour scheme....who don't you just ring starboard and tell them you want 6'10 x 21 x 2 3/8 666


Horrific why its just yellow isnt it

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
12 Jan 2015 12:40PM
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laceys lane said..

Tux said...
Do you have a Patagonia store up there...they usually stock Gerry's boards...minus the horrific Naish colour scheme....who don't you just ring starboard and tell them you want 6'10 x 21 x 2 3/8 666



Horrific why its just yellow isnt it



I just assumed that your deal with Starboard prohibited you from associating with anything thats yellow....no banana ice cream etc...and all your clothes most look like brushed carbon

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 11:43AM
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Select to expand quote
Tux said...
laceys lane said..

Tux said...
Do you have a Patagonia store up there...they usually stock Gerry's boards...minus the horrific Naish colour scheme....who don't you just ring starboard and tell them you want 6'10 x 21 x 2 3/8 666



Horrific why its just yellow isnt it



I just assumed that your deal with Starboard prohibited you from associating with anything thats yellow....no banana ice cream etc...and all your clothes most look like brushed carbon


Ive pretty much pulled right out sup

thePup
13831 posts
12 Jan 2015 10:17AM
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Actually here's a poser - can you get a naish product that is not a yellow colour ????

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
12 Jan 2015 1:26PM
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thePup said..
Actually here's a poser - can you get a naish product that is not a yellow colour ????


Doesn't one of the downwind boards come in white with yellow?

thePup
13831 posts
12 Jan 2015 10:39AM
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buggered if I know looks like yellow is a theme colour regardless

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
12 Jan 2015 2:25PM
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laceys lane said..

Tux said...

laceys lane said..


Tux said...
Do you have a Patagonia store up there...they usually stock Gerry's boards...minus the horrific Naish colour scheme....who don't you just ring starboard and tell them you want 6'10 x 21 x 2 3/8 666




Horrific why its just yellow isnt it




I just assumed that your deal with Starboard prohibited you from associating with anything thats yellow....no banana ice cream etc...and all your clothes most look like brushed carbon



Ive pretty much pulled right out sup


Whats with you Qld...you and Mac change sports/boards more than I change my undies...I reckon by the end of the year you will have a new fleet of bright yellow wind sups shaped by MR

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 1:39PM
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Been fully blown sup for nearly 7 years. Lost it

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
12 Jan 2015 1:54PM
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It's why I have that Green single fin...... Rip buster 2000

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 2:24PM
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thePup said..

Actually here's a poser - can you get a naish product that is not a yellow colour ????


thePup
13831 posts
12 Jan 2015 1:15PM
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Looks like one of them family pump up board jobs

Macaha
QLD, 21914 posts
12 Jan 2015 3:20PM
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The topic heading is fitting

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 3:55PM
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Macaha said..
The topic heading is fitting


someone asked mac- blame them.

pup. just the first one I came across. the Alana range or something.


actually dj has posted surfing vids with him on one too

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
12 Jan 2015 4:58PM
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laceys lane said..

Macaha said..
The topic heading is fitting



someone asked mac- blame them.

pup. just the first one I came across. the Alana range or something.


actually dj has posted surfing vids with him on one too


I'd almost pay to see Mac riding Alana

thePup
13831 posts
12 Jan 2015 2:07PM
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^^^^
boom boom

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 4:08PM
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Select to expand quote
Tux said..

laceys lane said..


Macaha said..
The topic heading is fitting




someone asked mac- blame them.

pup. just the first one I came across. the Alana range or something.


actually dj has posted surfing vids with him on one too



I'd almost pay to see Mac riding Alana


I have a photo of him with a 666 on top of his car but I think they call it blackmaiing

thePup
13831 posts
12 Jan 2015 2:11PM
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Select to expand quote
laceys lane said..

Tux said..


laceys lane said..



Macaha said..
The topic heading is fitting





someone asked mac- blame them.

pup. just the first one I came across. the Alana range or something.


actually dj has posted surfing vids with him on one too




I'd almost pay to see Mac riding Alana


I have a photo of him with a 666 on top of his car but I think they call it blackmaiing


Ahhhh geez Lacey my BEERFINE phone is howling stridently you cheeky bastard of a thing ease up on the chopper will ya

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 4:58PM
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You know im looking at the sideways surf at the alley with a massive rip.Cams show cooly packed and im thinking why am i bothering with 6'10.

and realistically I shouldn't be putting myself in those heavier situations where im not in control of what my output is

I don't Iike the alley all boofy and last time I got ran over at cooly.

I think I will can the bigger board idea.

The only big board I want to paddle up the point is the evo 2.


fun topic is over

Macaha
QLD, 21914 posts
12 Jan 2015 5:17PM
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laceys lane said..
You know im looking at the sideways surf at the alley with a massive rip.Cams show cooly packed and im thinking why am i bothering with 6'10.

and realistically I shouldn't be putting myself in those heavier situations where im not in control of what my output is

I don't Iike the alley all boofy and last time I got ran over at cooly.

I think I will can the bigger board idea.

The only big board I want to paddle up the point is the evo 2.


fun topic is over



Thank god for that,I was going to saying early in the piece the evo would be the perfect paddler up the piont but would you want a 9.6 out there? but you've finally made the right call,would you go out in zoo land when its really on? Not a chance best leaving it to the short boarders!Oh you mite have the power to start a topic but not enough to end it

thePup
13831 posts
12 Jan 2015 3:27PM
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hmmmmm how about we place it in suspended animation status ..... sort of chryogenic freeze type caper you can always defrost it later and have another chew on it champion

Macaha
QLD, 21914 posts
12 Jan 2015 5:31PM
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thePup said..
hmmmmm how about we place it in suspended animation status ..... sort of chryogenic freeze type caper you can always defrost it later and have another chew on it champion


Noway Pup he is not getting off lightly mate noway

laceys lane
QLD, 19803 posts
12 Jan 2015 5:46PM
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Select to expand quote
Macaha said..

laceys lane said..
You know im looking at the sideways surf at the alley with a massive rip.Cams show cooly packed and im thinking why am i bothering with 6'10.

and realistically I shouldn't be putting myself in those heavier situations where im not in control of what my output is

I don't Iike the alley all boofy and last time I got ran over at cooly.

I think I will can the bigger board idea.

The only big board I want to paddle up the point is the evo 2.


fun topic is over




Thank god for that,I was going to saying early in the piece the evo would be the perfect paddler up the piont but would you want a 9.6 out there? but you've finally made the right call,would you go out in zoo land when its really on? Not a chance best leaving it to the short boarders!Oh you mite have the power to start a topic but not enough to end it


nar , wouldn't go out a 6 ft pumping kirra or something. wasn't really getting it for that buddy.


however im into not playing with the zoo animals- got bitten last time. as you get older you tend to think about what 'could' happen more than then your younger.




funny you know the day I got the head knock was quite sweepy.


I was able to hold my place but I saw heaps of guys come drifting down and past me.


there's still some paddling arms in this old dog yet. enough to beat you mac


cheers mate


Macaha
QLD, 21914 posts
12 Jan 2015 5:51PM
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Yes I know the older we get the more we think things out.
Its not arm day today its chest see you on my return

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
12 Jan 2015 6:58PM
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4 pages of crap !! !!!

The boys at the coffee shop must love it when you two arrive



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Forums > Surfing Longboarding


"im embarrassed to admit it" started by laceys lane