Select to expand quotejbshack said..
Had a ball again today, same place as last week. A few epic Point barrels being scored and managed a amazing keeper for my memory bank..
I didn't make it out but it was big and ballsey and seemed to run for ever..
(Ok on my scale)
A question though, if your sliding out on bottom turns (board is just flat and slips away) is that more an issue of fin size or am i not setting my rail correctly
I was blaming the Medium fins (I'm 96 kilos) but i think its the more a rail issue as some waves were just amazing to ride and some just slipped away
Got ya foot firmly over the fins? Not too far forward?
Select to expand quoteBuster fin said..jbshack said..
Had a ball again today, same place as last week. A few epic Point barrels being scored and managed a amazing keeper for my memory bank.. I didn't make it out but it was big and ballsey and seemed to run for ever.. (Ok on my scale)
A question though, if your sliding out on bottom turns (board is just flat and slips away) is that more an issue of fin size or am i not setting my rail correctly
I was blaming the Medium fins (I'm 96 kilos) but i think its the more a rail issue as some waves were just amazing to ride and some just slipped away
Got ya foot firmly over the fins? Not too far forward?
Yeah that has been a big driver. I found that this board I'm riding really needs heavy back foot..I even managed once to get the foot on the outside of the foot pad..Im wondering if i need to re position it slightly
You're just a kook, bjshack.
That board's never going to hold well off the tail. Fat rails and a wide tail plus flat rocker. At least that's how it looks in that picture. I've been forced back onto a similar board and it's night and day. The only solution is paddle harder and get in early. Steep late drops are not your friend unless you like to be adventurous. You can get them wired but it's a compromise. Best solution is an equipment solution.
Select to expand quoteBuster fin said..
I would.
Next question then, how do they remove and can you re glue them, or is it just buy another
Legion maybe I'm a kook, but i thank god every day I'm not like you
I gave you feedback. It's equipment. Lots of volume, not much rocker, super wide, fat rails. It is what it is. Would you take your Prado to Wanneroo and then say it doesn't corner well?
I surfed a similar design on the weekend. Coming off a shortboard, I came very close to catching both rocker and rails on a few occasions and it didn't turn as sharp off the rail line. However, it generated heaps of speed and was slidey and poppy. Tradeoffs.
Sorry JB how is this a daily surf update. Time to shift it to your own thread mate.
Select to expand quoteGrevas said..
Sorry JB how is this a daily surf update. Time to shift it to your own thread mate.
Done
Scored pumping Metro beachies on Saturday. Decent swell, dropping tide and all day offshores made for some very fun surf. Hope everyone else made the most of the awesome conditions!!
Photo courtesy of Daniel Degoisa
Select to expand quoteCoohan said..
Scored pumping Metro beachies on Saturday. Decent swell, dropping tide and all day offshores made for some very fun surf. Hope everyone else made the most of the awesome conditions!!
Photo courtesy of Daniel Degoisa
That looks like were i was Sunday..
Select to expand quotebjshack said..
That looks like were i was Sunday..
Except it's not closing out ...
Select to expand quoteLegion said..bjshack said..
That looks like were i was Sunday..
Except it's not closing out ...
Haha were i was it was not all close outs, but i am serous, i think it is THE beach i was surfing Sunday.. I could be wrong, but if its North, ill bet I'm not
Select to expand quoteCoohan said..
Another one by Dan Degoisa
Stunning, but sadly not were i was..
Yeah, the winds been hideous the last few days luckily it`s dropped off when the tide has been right or else it would have been all over where i was. On Sunday when there was still a fair bit of swell around had to wait for hours for it to drop..but ended up ok. Been flat the last 3 days though!
Still waited a while after those pics.
[edit] was a worry when it got a bit of Nth in it, thought it might go light N.W. but turned out glassy. (Awesome sunset that night and that moon!!)
Looks like a challenge that's for sure!
I enjoyed a couple of fun dawn and dusk session early in the week, had a great bank with some absolute drainers running along surfing at first on the fish and then the mal.
Grommys got some rippers as well - so much fun watching the stoke they have, the banter is non stop as well!
Nothing better than locking in and just sitting deep as the wave goes from the sandy rip section on take off to the blue green colour as it opens up..and then goes sandy again as you get dumped on the beach ha ha
Smaller this week but good uncrowded waves. Monday at everyone's favourite left 5 out chest shoulder high sets. Today at the a frame no one out but me and a mate for three hours. Couldn't believe it, kept waiting for the crew to come trading barrels and laughing our heads off. After an hour and a half we say wide and scored a dozen sets each and surfed till cactus. Epic morning can't believe it.
Absolute grovel this morning, nice conditions though. Same little bank threw up a few little peelers but not as good as earlier in the week.
The rip there is still working overtime.
Would love to still be out there...
nice waves down south
thurs light offshore wnw swell
was only one out for a good 45 min @ lefties (or anywhere else that I could see) mid-late arvo
even better next am, clean crisp waves, occasional bubble
max 10
some one would paddle for a wave, no else moved
ahhh, the good old days
Was shifty, lumpy head-high+ glass at LBB; mostly lefts. Some gems if you were in the right spot, but otherwise it was hit and miss... swell dropped around 10:30am. Good fun. Getting too hot for a steamer, although it was cold at 7:30am with the breeze 
Fun clean peaks early on, went a bit crappy mid morning. Still managed a few hours surf, mowed the lawns and watching the footy now. Bewdiful!
I'm in qld surfed snapski yesterday. And had a late arvo in Byron today. Got some pics I can't post them off my iPhone ( what's happened?) ill try again when I'm home
There were some bombs on the beaches this morning with the early offshore. Not as lumpy as expected with the onshores most of the night, pretty glassy actually with just a bit of lump and a few nice ones holding up. Better than it has been, a lot of sand has moved around so with a bit of luck there should be some good banks with the next proper offshore. Even the northern reefs looked OK for the early with just two paddling out at smots and copping a good size set on the head as I was heading home.
Pics of the last three days are on my profile I don't know how to get em up on here. Me missis got one of the best shots I've seen of an empty a frame. Ended up surfing it by me self for four hours than heading up the coast to a wedge right. If someone knows how to pull it off me profile and put the a frame on here fire it up. Swells bumping tomorrow one of me mates here wants to take us to one of his waves reckons itll be the goods fingers crossed
