I've finally taken the plunge and on some excellent advice from Azymuth, purchased a Slingshot hover glide 76 (it is an intimidating piece of kit to say the least). It arrived the other day (thanks Jesper) and I have decided to repurpose my less than regularly used 2012 iS117wide as my foiling board. I haven't plugged the foil in and ridden it yet as I really want to reinforce the fin box and insert inboard plugs for the footstraps first before stressing the board.........any advice on optimum position would be greatly appreciated i.e. do I keep them in line with existing and just bring in 2-3cm or should I look at bringing front ones back and in???
I have included some photos of the foil (position B) in relation to the existing strap position for reference. As you can see the centre of lift is not centre between straps but I am told that the glide is pretty forgiving in respect to feet position???? I know position C would bring lift closer to centre but I've read it's not ideal to learn to foil in this posi (please correct me if wrong)
In regards to reinforcing the fin box, my idea is to add carbon / fibreglass layers top & bottom & possibly try to key some of the layers into the side of the fin box itself for lateral strength. My theory is that the foil wants to punch up and sideways through the board so layers on bottom more critical but extra around bolts essential also - yet again would appreciate any experience in this method
Stoked you've got it - let us know how it goes
I moved the Tuttle box forward 15cm (early days with the Naish WS1 which has less lift) - not sure if it's necessary with the SS wing.
You can always try C position if you need more lift.
I glassed the sides of the Tuttle box to the top and bottom of the board - a glass I Beam.
I would get a few sessions in before you reinforce the box - then you can reinforce and move it forward at the same time if you want your back foot over the mast.
Rear footstraps were maybe a touch too close to the centreline for power upwinding but good for downwind.
Front position's great.
The big spread (44cms) between the footstraps works for me - transfer weight on the back foot to get going in light winds and transfer weight well forward to counteract increased lift when flying down waves and swells
Rather than estimating or guessing about center of lift position, you can measure it exactly. See this youtube:
Cheers JJ...some additional food for thought. I'll probably just go for a test run on the iS137 85cm wide board this weekend to get a feel for it as i've already started to stuff around with reinforcing the iS117w. Also I need to get some longer M10 cap head screws to fit the 117 as the fin box doesn't have chimneys (unlike the iS137). I'm going to leave the fin box where it is as there's always position C as you've mentioned.
Segler,
Thanks - I have watched that vid before and my photo shows the foil (position B) in exact position in relation to footstrap position (it's not a guess). I have attached photo indicating centrelines of footstraps (burgundy lines) and what I assume would be the approx. centre of lift (white line) that said, can anyone actually elaborate where the centre of lift is on the 76 wing?). I'm going to fit 5 hole footstrap plugs inboard to give me a good range of adjustment to find optimum position. I'll take some photos of the process and post progress.
Hi,
Some photos of SS Foils in relation to the Wizard 125.
The infinity 76 has the fuse in the B position, which pushes the lift quite along way forward. I find it comfortable to foil with front foot in the strap and rear foot infront of the rear straps, ie weight evenly balanced. I would guess therefore the centre of lift is probably further forward than your white line.
I find for the Timecode 68 to be balanced similar to the Infinity 76, I need to switch the fuse. The photo shows the Timecode in the C Position.
JJ's suggestion of getting some sessions before serious mods makes perfect sense.
Hope you get as much joy from Foiling as I am!!
Simon.
I don't have a foil yet, but when I do I'm thinking of nicking my son's Futura 122 and reinforcing it a bit along the lines of Sausage's ideas. My board has Tuttle box "chimneys". I was was thinking of filling them in and either layering some glass over the top or use a wide ally pressure distribution top plate. Good or bad idea?
Can17, 316 grade stainless steel. And you can just drill bolt holes out without waterproofing .
Stretchy,
Photos below of reinforced bolt area and bottom around the box. not the neatest job but in general I think it'll do the job. Bolt area effectively has 3 layers of carbon / 2 glass (two 50 mm strips either side of centreline and then two 50mm x 100 long carbon strips over holes then a layer of 4oz glass, then carbon then a sacrificial layer of 4 oz glass so I could give it a sand without going into carbon layer). bottom was pretty much the same layering. Have also made a leash for the foil by drilling hole for formuline leash (which will be screwed into a footstrap plug).
i'd push a couple layers of glass or carbon into the chimneys and wrap over deck and then layer up just to tie the box to the deck albeit if the bolts come all the way through to deck then it may not be necessary??
+1 nice work, thanks for posting. Leash arrangement looks great.
do you think the bottom layup will compromise slapping much due to negative rocker?