I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Select to expand quoteWhiteofHeart said..
I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Chrome will autotranslate the subtitles for you if you already have it set to autotranslate French. In Firefox, you can turn on the subtitles/CC and then have it autotranslate French. In Firefox, turn CC/subtitles on and then go to Settings -> Subtitles/CC -> Autotranslate and choose French.
I just saw Gwen's excellent video this way as well as a nice Lokefoil video about foil tuning.
btw, I also use Spot Putty for very small voids, nicks and pin holes. Auto primer is also good for very fine scratches and fairing - it's thick, dries quickly and sands easily. Both have zero structual value (Spot Putty is just talc in a very fast drying medium) but are excellent as they don't require much sanding. A bit of blue masking tape is valuable for acting as a sanding guide and keeping from spreading stuff too far. 
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Select to expand quoteWhiteofHeart said..
I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Same here only French!
Select to expand quoteduzzi said..WhiteofHeart said..
I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Same here only French!
Did you try the CC -autotranslate?
Select to expand quotePaducah said..duzzi said..WhiteofHeart said..
I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Same here only French!
Did you try the CC -autotranslate?
Oh I see, did not think about the auto-translate. I love the result: "the grooves of my comfortable morning have disappeared", so poetic!
Select to expand quoteduzzi said..Paducah said..duzzi said..WhiteofHeart said..
I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Same here only French!
Did you try the CC -autotranslate?
Oh I see, did not think about the auto-translate. I love the result: "the grooves of my comfortable morning have disappeared", so poetic!
Select to expand quoteduzzi said..Paducah said..duzzi said..WhiteofHeart said..
I watched the video, but subtitles are only in french for me ;). I ran into the ground a few months back and have some nasty scratches on my racekit so I'll definately give your method a go! I'd normally just sand them out and fill the big dings with epoxy.
Same here only French!
Did you try the CC -autotranslate?
Oh I see, did not think about the auto-translate. I love the result: "the grooves of my comfortable morning have disappeared", so poetic!
French is a beautiful language ! 
Regarding these scratches on the foil wings that are bound to come over time of usage, is your reason to remove them/polish them out:1. as the scratched foil wing will otherwise start to create turbulence in the water flow when foiling and then ultimately loose some grip?2. for removing openings into the core/fibres/honeycomb or whatever materials are inside the foil that may quicker deteriorate if exposed direct to water?
3. purely cosmetic reasons?4. a combination of one or more of the above at same time?
Just trying to get a sense of how important this really is or not...
For sanding small scratches is there a certain direction to sand in; direction the water flows?
Could it make the foil perform worse if I sand in the wrong direction?
Thinking of giving some small scraps and rough edges on my slingshot hover glide wings a sand with 200, 400 and 1000 grit. After two years they have faired well with only very minor scrapes.
Any advice on sanding
Some may say its freeride gear so it doesn't matter, but I'm looking for efficiency if I can help it
. I don't notice any humming unless really cranking hard turns out. 20kts> starts to make a shrieking noise a bit.
I clean the scratches and dings with 70% isopropanol and fill with Devcon two part clear epoxy, hold contour and fill in place by laying thin clear plastic film, from a shopping bag or ziplock bag, over the partially set epoxy and smooth/shape as needed, after 24 hr carefully peel off plastic film and sand epoxy flush to surrounding carbon using 100/220/500/1000 grit sandpaper. The scratches and digs disappear on black carbon fiber and wing dihedral stays the same. Would never try to sand them out.
CAN 17 the wings will always WORK even with scratches. I don't care about cosmetics and I let mine get really bad while sailing a shallow venue. I stopped to fix them up when the tip delamed and was letting water into the core. If you get a crack through to the core you want to fix that asap. I tend to fix the scraches a couple times a year and when I clean them up I do notice a slight increase in performance, at least I think I do. I have used all the methods mentioned above and so far and my preference is use softer fast drying putty rather than epoxy. It's faster and keeps the sanding easier and less chance of cutting the carbon while trying to sand all the epoxy away. I like to use a primer because it fills pin holes and acts as a guide coat so you can see the defects. I finish with 2 coats of black engine enamel sanding between all these coats and filling any small spots as the guide coats reveal them. As I get above 600 grit I sand in the direction of the flow. I leave the wings finished matte with 1000, I am not convinced polish or wax is the fastest surface given what I learned at boat school. After this treatment the wings are better than new! The primer fills all the fabric print through and I was surpised that there were sublte spots that were not fair in the factory finish. If I were racing this treatment would be mandatory, for free ride don't fret unless the water is getting in or you just want to do it.
Thanks for the advice guys!
Thinking of just getting some of that Bondo spot putty Paducah mentioned since it would probably be easier to sand then epoxy. Just to fill very small scratches. Would you lay plastic over it or just apply and let dry?
Select to expand quoteCAN17 said..
Thanks for the advice guys!
Thinking of just getting some of that Bondo spot putty Paducah mentioned since it would probably be easier to sand then epoxy. Just to fill very small scratches. Would you lay plastic over it or just apply and let dry?
Bondo is as hard as epoxy, worked with both, but you will get a smoother finished surface with epoxy. Just get the two part waterproof epoxy that comes in a dual syringe for $5, lasts for 10 years, easy. Plus bondo will not flow into voids like freshly mixed epoxy will.
What about the old superglue and baking soda trick for small nicks? Is sands really nicely.
You could use graphite powder if you want it black to match the foil.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..CAN17 said..
Thanks for the advice guys!
Thinking of just getting some of that Bondo spot putty Paducah mentioned since it would probably be easier to sand then epoxy. Just to fill very small scratches. Would you lay plastic over it or just apply and let dry?
Bondo is as hard as epoxy, worked with both, but you will get a smoother finished surface with epoxy. Just get the two part waterproof epoxy that comes in a dual syringe for $5, lasts for 10 years, easy. Plus bondo will not flow into voids like freshly mixed epoxy will.
Okay, so Bondo only if in a pinch.
I don't know how important "marine" epoxy is for minor scratches on wings, I have the white but don't want to use it on a back carbon wing. I think JB weld clear could work well.
So my steps to take are(?)
-tape off the area with painters tape
-apply epoxy to scratches, using a plastic smooth edge of something to smooth out the epoxy in the scratches. I will try not to go overkill on the epoxy as it shouldn't need much and it would mean more sanding and potentially causing me to sand too much into surrounding areas. I think if I do this right I might not need to apply plastic over it to make smooth.
-take tape off before it cures to prevent it from getting stuck on the wing.
-sand and finish with 1000 grit
Select to expand quoteCAN17 said..Sandman1221 said..CAN17 said..
Thanks for the advice guys!
Thinking of just getting some of that Bondo spot putty Paducah mentioned since it would probably be easier to sand then epoxy. Just to fill very small scratches. Would you lay plastic over it or just apply and let dry?
Bondo is as hard as epoxy, worked with both, but you will get a smoother finished surface with epoxy. Just get the two part waterproof epoxy that comes in a dual syringe for $5, lasts for 10 years, easy. Plus bondo will not flow into voids like freshly mixed epoxy will.
Okay, so Bondo only if in a pinch.
I don't know how important "marine" epoxy is for minor scratches on wings, I have the white but don't want to use it on a back carbon wing. I think JB weld clear could work well.
So my steps to take are(?)
-tape off the area with painters tape
-apply epoxy to scratches, using a plastic smooth edge of something to smooth out the epoxy in the scratches. I will try not to go overkill on the epoxy as it shouldn't need much and it would mean more sanding and potentially causing me to sand too much into surrounding areas. I think if I do this right I might not need to apply plastic over it to make smooth.
-take tape off before it cures to prevent it from getting stuck on the wing.
-sand and finish with 1000 grit
My experience is that 3M 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper will remove the epoxy I added easier than the original finish on a carbon wing, I know AFS heat cures their wings so it is a lot harder than regular two part waterproof epoxy cured at room temperature, you just need clear two part non-yellowing waterproof epoxy, not the marine-grade white epoxy.
Select to expand quoteCAN17 said..Sandman1221 said..CAN17 said..
Thanks for the advice guys!
Thinking of just getting some of that Bondo spot putty Paducah mentioned since it would probably be easier to sand then epoxy. Just to fill very small scratches. Would you lay plastic over it or just apply and let dry?
Bondo is as hard as epoxy, worked with both, but you will get a smoother finished surface with epoxy. Just get the two part waterproof epoxy that comes in a dual syringe for $5, lasts for 10 years, easy. Plus bondo will not flow into voids like freshly mixed epoxy will.
Okay, so Bondo only if in a pinch.
I don't know how important "marine" epoxy is for minor scratches on wings, I have the white but don't want to use it on a back carbon wing. I think JB weld clear could work well.
So my steps to take are(?)
-tape off the area with painters tape
-apply epoxy to scratches, using a plastic smooth edge of something to smooth out the epoxy in the scratches. I will try not to go overkill on the epoxy as it shouldn't need much and it would mean more sanding and potentially causing me to sand too much into surrounding areas. I think if I do this right I might not need to apply plastic over it to make smooth.
-take tape off before it cures to prevent it from getting stuck on the wing.
-sand and finish with 1000 grit
Try black sandable primer first as mentioned by utcminusfour
If you insist on going the epoxy route, a) get some black epoxy colorant and b) mix in glass microspheres (the infamous "bog"). it should be thick like peanut butter not thin. Thicker sands easier. Wear a mask - you don't want to be breathing this crap. It's a few extra bucks but you'll be good for repairs for a few years.
But, try the sandable primer - sands super easily. If you have a gloss finish, you can top off with gloss clear coat enamel. Dries quickly and easy to sand.
And, yes, mask, mask, mask.
This stuff works well, I'm sure there are other brands as good if not better
I took same charcoal that I use for my water purifier and ground it up and mixed in with the 2 part clear epoxy perfect for repairs on plain carbon fiber wings.
