Hello
Before I post this, I have read tons and tons of articles and videos in the internet.
I am now starting to learn carve gybe. I have a few specific questions I want to ask, they should be simple to answer. I am still on the inital stage of the carve gybe. I am on a floaty board now, can blast comfortably in both straps. I can do non-planing gybes comfortably
1. When bearing away to broad reach from beam reach, do you unhook? Will the harness line stops you from bearing away to broad reach? I find myself the hook is bothering me to point further down the wind.
2. When bearing away to broad reach from beam reach, are your eyes located in the same horizontal position as the boom? I just want to know how extreme I have to bear away
3. When bearing away to broad reach from beam reach, how bend is your rear knee? almost 90 degrees?
4. During the carve process, the front hand extends and back hand sheets in. Will the front hand experience a very strong pull from the sail? and when I carve more, will I experience less pulling force from the wind? I want someone to point me out the pulling force for both hands in related to the carving process
Thanks
Gybes are difficult, especially if you want to come out the other side still planning. If you do get one, you will remember it for a long time. Hopefully you will remember what you did so that you can repeat the same again. Practice makes perfect.
(1). I would unhook. When you are on a bread reach, you are already in maximum speed. If you remained hooked in, and if you spin out, then you are in for a nasty fall. For me, Once I am ready to gybe, I actually pump the sail a few time to get even more speed. Why? Because you want go faster than the true wind, which is going to be behind you soon. As you start the gybe, your board will slow down because you no longer have the sail power, and the turn also wash off some speed. The pumping gives you that little bit more time and speed so that you don't have the full force of the true wind slams into your sail.
(2). There was a time when the lean-down slalom gybes were all the rage. No, you don't need to be that extreme, but you want to lean your sail more towards the inside of the turn as well as a bit more forward to the front of the board. Think of turning on a bicycle. You want your weight inside of the turn.
(3). Knee bend is a totally reflex issue. On choppy water, you need to bend your knees to absorb the bounce. The outside leg should be almost straight, while your inside leg will have to bend because that is how you distribute your weight to initiate the turn. If you bend your inside leg, obviously your weight will bias to the inside rail. Such a posture will mean you will fall over "if" you are not turning. But you won't because the centrifugal force will balance you out. That is the beauty of a gybe. That is some physics involved.
(4). Please refer to #1 about pumping the sail. If you have plenty of speed, the sail will now almost become weightless as the true wind is slower than you board speed. So the "strong pull" you worry about will no longer be an issue. I do want to remind you though that it is best to
* bring your fore-hand closer to the harness
* move your back-hand further towards the clew end
As you sheet in hard, it will force the sail more towards the front of the board, as well as making it lean towards inside of the turn. You must
* Keep you fore-hand very straight, almost like pushing the boom away from you.
I would suggest you do it in stages. Think of a gybe in
* Broad reach
* Pumping for more speed
* Initiate the gybe by foot movements as well as weight distribution. Of course, the straight fore-arm and hard sheet-in. Push the sail forward and inside the turn
* Allow the board to gybe until you are ready to flip the sail
* Flip the sail.
Now that is the hard bit...Foot change. Panic stricken sailor will quickly pull the old front-foot and go to the back-end fo the board. Please don't. As soon as you put weight on the tail, the board will sink and come off the plane. I would keep sailing on the "wrong" foot even after the sail flip. You can actually sail awy on the wrong foot.
Once you are comfortable on your new tack, and the sail is now powered up, you then pull out the old front foot and slot in the new front foot. You can hook in if you are not over power. You now have plenty of time to find the back strap.
Gybes are much about courage. You will be "zero" for a long time until, with enough falls and bruised egos, you will become a "hero". I suggest you wear a thick long john wet suit for protection.
And a good board helps. If your trying to learn gybes on a slalomy board you wont get anywhere. A nice forgiving fsw or maybe even a freeride will help you.
^^^^ Possibly?
Doing regular 25.5kt plus alphas now,
My gypes are no longer done the way I described above,
For me, the gype is constantly a work of improvement,
I think your initial planning gypes are a result of reducing drag, and basic board trim, nothing special, just build from there
Good luck
1. Don't over think it. Do it!
2. Watch some good Gybers for a while
3. Try to imagine what it feels like to do what you see them doing
4. Be prepared to get wet and fall in a lot. Commit!
5. Try all the variations of what you think others are doing after watching them.
6. Enter Gybes with as much speed as possible. Start on a beam reach and bear away a bit to build up speed more. Unhook, move back foot onto lee rail well froward just behind front strap and carve the board in gently leaning forward and into the turn.
7.Let the rig go well before you reach straight downwind and try to keep the boards steady and carving!
8.Do not pull back on the rig! Stand it up straight so it can pivot around balanced in front of you with you hardly having to hold it at all!
9. If you get to the point where you are getting past straight downwind try to flatten out the carve and make a wider arc as you grab the rig on the other tack.
10. Aim to crash and fall in a lot. Commit!
11. Oh, and did I mention: Don't over think it too much. Just do it!
Ahhh.... too much information above. Maybe just concentrate on 1, 4, 6 and 8!
I found I'd do a postmortem after every failed attempt and then work on what I thought caused the crash..
Also concentrate on one thing at a time until you get it sorted.. I find with me its often I'm not looking far enough into the exit or flipping at the wrong time..
I either end up stalled pointing upwind, or else when I try to flip earlier, I get pulled in forwards by the sail. I feel like there is a micro-second of opportunity between the two that I can't find, but it can't be like that, I must be doing something wrong. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Harrow.
Harrow,
Timing the flip is one of the keys to a good gybe.
Try following the wind with the sail as you go round, when it's pointing away from you flip it.
In fact if you do it right, you can take both hands off the sail as you throw it around and catch on the new tack.
Sue,
My head's got no idea what my body's doing. I have to let my body do it and watch from the sidelines to see what's happening, as soon as I start to think about it I fall off. I've been trying to back loop since last century, and still can't make out how I end up where I do, it all happens too fast now.
What I like about this shot is Isaac has very deeply bent knees yet his core is still largely over the centreline. He also has good downward pressure on the boom. His left foot has good pressure upwards. Just a point in time but I hope it illustrates some key features to a good gybe.
Sorry about that Harrow. Just couldn't resist!
Here is a drill to try:
Forget about finishing the gybe! Carve the board in, let go of the rig, hold it by the mast and don't try to get it back on the other tack. Just focus your efforts on keeping the board carving smooth for the last half of the turn until you are going the other way. It's perfectly OK to fall in then. It is part of the exercise!
Repeat and focus on being freely balanced on top of the board without relying on the rig for support at all.
Repeat and focus on [b]reducing[/b] the arc of the carve after you let go of the rig.
Repeat as many times as you can.
Only then, when you have imprinted the balanced, smooth, controlled carve on your body, do you start to think about taking hold of the sail again on the new tack and switching your feet.
I would do the feet switching repeatedly first, and when you have smoothed that out I think you will find that the rig will actually just fall back into your hands anyhow!
The idea behind this suggestion is to try to break down the rather complex skill into a number of simpler component parts. The principle works well for many people, i'm just not sure those particular steps will work as well as I envisage. It would be good if you try it and report your findings!
I like sailquik's exercise, I think it's great. Getting into a nicely balanced position is a key for good jibes.
For the foot switch, follow Guy Cribb's advice and practice it on land. Ideally, take the fin out of the board, put the board on a lawn or soft sand, and practice your stepping. Check the Intuition video for details if you can. If not, try to have the heel of your new back foot (almost) step onto the big toe of your old back foot. Or ask any ballet dancer to show you number 4 position
When you combine this thread with the various instructional videos, and lots of practice/falling in......
it just doesn't get any better for one of the most technical manouveurs in windsurfing.
thanks guys
Hi guys. Some great comments here for me who Is also exactly at this stage. Trying to increase my gybe percentage from 30% up and keep it planing.
Speed, commitment and get used to falling in are consistent themes. I am really good at the last one, but I love the feeling of speeding around the corner. Will keep at it.