I know there are other threads out there on nose repairs, but I wanted some more specific advice. I have an old JP freeride board (maybe 2004). I dinged the nose pretty bad and cracked the board and the foam. I was wondering if it's worth trying to fix the ding by removing all the cracked and loose foam, filling with q-cell and then re glass.
Or, would it be easier to just cut about 3" off the nose, re shape nose and then re glass. I assume cutting a bit off the nose shouldn't reduce the performance in chop too much?
any thoughts?
i peeled off some of the loose fibreglass to show how the foam looks.
Just getting back into windsurfing after a 12 Yr break. Harness lines too short and got no skills, so got catapulted. Boom must of hit the nose
Both your options are probably viable, doesn't look like you'd loose much rocker by amputating the nose.
The damage appears to go forward of the rail hole. So you could probably curve your cut forward and retain a fair bit of rocker.
Looks like you'd need a lot of bog, be aware that could get hot enough to melt your foam, especially if it's a hot day. Using a slow part B may be an idea.
I wouldn't chop it . I'd hack out a bit with a coat hanger hook down the cracked foam and make a 1 cm gap. Then shove the nozzle of expanda foam in a can down the void ( Bunnings $7 ) and let overflow out.
Shape foam in morning and glass over.
Imax is on the money.... I'd go that route. Much easier, quicker and safer option.
If you go spray foam,stick a bit of plastic over and sandbag it to prevent too much escaping / keep pressure up inside, else you will probably get a big bubble void, and just as you shape you have a finger sized hole in it again.
I'd do as suggested by those above on the rail ding, its not very big.
Then grind out that deck crack and got about 5 layers of glass in it (i mean 4-6oz woven not chopped strand crap)
That way the loss of divinycell layer in only a strip say 15cm x 1cm is not really an issue as you "over" glassed it.
Easier to do the repairs separate for first time.
Its not structural so unless you use fibreglass resin, or get it too hot with a big fill, you pretty much can't stuff it up.
Either and the easier for your skills. Chopping
9" off the nose does'nt hurt anything, and fits inside the car better.
I found another rail crack on the other side of the ding. There was an old repair there and it looks like it cracked underneath as well.
I decided to just chop the nose about 4" and reshape it. Bit easier for my skill set. I assume if I built up 5 layers around the nose it should be structural strong.
.Five layers will do it , sad about the front , now it will be the ugly bridesmaid . 
You will be missing the high density foam layer so (assuming u are using normal 4oz glass) 5 layers is about minimum for a nose.
I'd say the 5 layers, plus then use resin and q-cell mix over, sand to get nice shape, then another 2 or 3 layers of 4oz over top. Then the final fairing with resin and q-cell again.
How far back over the existing glass should a overlap? Is 1.5-2cm enough?
i.e glass 5 layers up to existing glass and than another 3 on top over lapping the existing?
I would bevel the existing glass/pvc layer as much as you can, say 20mm bevel over the 4mm thickness
then your glass has plenty to bond to
This sorta thing, but all the way around top n bottom:
Yep, a butt joint is a recipe for a big snap!!!!!, I've seen it happen. As Mark says taper grind it back about 20mm, then you can fair it up nice and smooth.
