Question
Do I need to use fairing compound next?
Any better or easier filler suggestions?
No just more epoxy and q-cells about honey consistency
Then sand back
Did you fill the whole thing with epoxy and q-cell?
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said...
No just more epoxy and q-cells about honey consistency
Then sand back
Did you fill the whole thing with epoxy and q-cell?
That extra kilo in the nose will help with rotation on those double loops 
With every great weight loss (or gain) story you need your before and after pics. What did it look like before the first surgery, any pictures?
Noice recovery from and ordinary start. I did something similar today with a poorly controlled front hand when a gust came through
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I had PMSL at Yuppy's post, but now I'm not feeling so smug. Any thoughts on how to proceed. I'm guessing I'm going to have to build up a layer to spread the stress otherwise the split may grow.
Hi mort.
You are going to have to sand that sucker back until all the Brocken stuff is gone.
What I learnt from the board repair lady is that you must repair it back to the same strength. Not stronger. Because that will add stress to the area around it.
I think sand back 3 inches each side of the crack
I mixed up a batch of epoxy resin and qcell. Smeared it over the board and wrapped it in glad wrap to keep it from running off.
Another lesson learned. Glad wrap creates a whole bunch of bubbles. Looks like I've got lots of sanding to do tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
question. Is it ok to sail now? At what stage is it waterproof?
Select to expand quoteYuppy said..question. Is it ok to sail now? At what stage is it waterproof?
Probably is watertight... until it falls out.
Now that you have fixed your hole, you will need some cloth wrapped around that bad boy.... making sure that there is a good bond with the rest of the board.
Or you could just cut the nose off, and fix your weight-gain problem in the process.
Use shade cloth as a ply peel instead of glad wrap. Try this resin/cloth, then shade cloth, then absorbent material (Paper towel, toilet paper), then thick foam rubber 100mm or so, then wrap it all tightly in duct tape. Works great for small repairs like nose and rails
Select to expand quoteYuppy said..
I mixed up a batch of epoxy resin and qcell. Smeared it over the board and wrapped it in glad wrap to keep it from running off.
Another lesson learned. Glad wrap creates a whole bunch of bubbles. Looks like I've got lots of sanding to do tomorrow. Fingers crossed. question. Is it ok to sail now? At what stage is it waterproof?
OK so if you needed to hold it place, the mix wasn't thick enough, add more q-cell.
The qcell at this stage only needs to be a thin coat, your previously sanded board looked close to being fair enough. Spread it on evenly with a squeegee about .5mm thick, then all it needs is a light sand back.
Yes as long as you didn't sand through all the fibreglass it should now be ready to sail.
Select to expand quotekato said..
Use shade cloth as a ply peel instead of glad wrap. Try this resin/cloth, then shade cloth, then absorbent material (Paper towel, toilet paper), then thick foam rubber 100mm or so, then wrap it all tightly in duct tape. Works great for small repairs like nose and rails
It probably works better than real peel-ply. I have had some real-stuff stick down too well because of an excess of resin and it bonds to the breather fabric! EVENTUALLY it comes off
I'm ready to paint it now
Can I use enamel paint? Will it eat the board? It's not water based.
rinse it with petrol first to remove any debris then it should be sweet to paint with enamel :)
trouble with enamel, you can't sand or polish it smooth, ok on the deck, but if you want the board to perform, don't use it on the bottom. Acrylic automotive works well, or best of all two pack urethane marine paint.
Any of this stuff could eat the internal styrene, (including the petrol flying cab told you to wash the board with). But hopefully you've sealed that up with layers of cloth and epoxy?
