How to jibe when you are seriously overpowered ( on the choppy water)?
I need your advice.
I thought that I have this scenario tested on the recent stormy weather but it seems that is not that easy yet.
Here is that situation . Wind as per graph ( 30 + knt ?) 5.7m2 and 92L JP, me 82 kg, quite a big chop.
Just freshly reviewed Alwarez Youtube video with 8 different jibes and plenty of time today I did try my best in practising jibbing.
Since I am moderate jibing begginer I am open for critics and advice as well.
How to jibe?
lay down jibe or step gybe ? ( I did try lay down the sail but it seem almost impossible to release that extreme power from sail )
try to loose some speed or get into jibe at full speed ?
commit to the gybe 100 % or keep relaxed and slow down?
I did test all possible scenarios with a bit miserable results if comnited too much then rail dig in into water, if lay down - then impossible to release power, if relaxed then ok but looks awfully
If you watch the top sailors they approach the mark/buoy very high.
This will help to dump the power/wind from the sail.
That is,if you also pull the back-hand in radically with all your strength,while at the same time pushing really hard with front hand.
Forget about laying it down,just concentrate on above 3 techniques.
And 4th technique is use a smaller sail.
30 knots with a 5.7m and 82kg? That sounds challenging to me, even if it were smooth water, and not choppy.
One strange thing about gybing, at least for me, is that you lose a fair bit of that power as you bear away from the wind. It feels scary initially, but bearing away calms things down a bit and is more comfortable than not bearing away.
Isn't a lay-down gybe just what you are doing with the sail. The footwork is still step-gybe or strap-to-strap, but you are oversheeting the sail and laying it down to make it a lay-down gybe.
I would suggest going with the wind, to lose some of that power, and then attempting the gybe.
what works for me: (I step, but occasionally strap-to-strap in the heavy stuff, it's not preconceived, just what works at the time). i weigh 76kegs, and was out in a very lumpy 30+kt a week ago with a 6m free race and 100ltr board. however my kit is excellent at handling bumps and I've been sailing a looong time, so although I was not exactly comfortable, i was in control, which is important. you must be ready to gybe, it's a kind of zen moment - and you can't enter with confidence if you're having trouble just going in a straight line.
1. time the approach carefully. even in nasty chop, flat spots can be found in between 'sets'. find them, and let the rail bite before really loading the inside rail. pressure should be gradually increased thru the first half of the turn, not all at once
2. I use the sail to pull me inboard into a strong gybing position (hips should always be over the centre line, outside heel lifted off the board). get this right and gybing becomes a *lot* easier, plus mast foot pressure loads the nose of the the board to allow it to slice thru chop and keep up speed. personally I do this by letting the sail fall to the inside (and slightly forward) and my body will follow it in. this naturally extends my front arm and kinks the rear and without really trying - voila! i've depowered the sail. score!
3. despite my best intentions, it doesn't always go to plan, so real deep knees in the turn lets me recover if/when the board hits a big piece of chop and tries to buck me off.
4. on rig flip anticipate the power: I get low to control the surge that is certain in heavy conditions.
in any conditions gybing's a lot to get right compressed into a handful of seconds, and technique is most important in heavy conditions. but we have an important ally: speed. it's amazing how much I can get away with if I just come in hard and fast.
when you are seriously overpowered, bearing away just increases your speed really you wanna go hard and sheet it, bend your ankles and knees through the turn
LOOK through the turn it will help you to keep carving around
most sailers start good then get stuck when it comes to completing the carve and flipping the rig
Pretty sure you could pick-up a smaller sail for significantly less than 10,000 batteries, a new electric outboard and the rest of the gubbins for a non-functioning solar powered catamaran, a one man helicopter garden ornament or a TIG welder (with MIG function).
Thr hardest part of gybing in strong winds in the JP slalom is getting the back foot out and into the opisite strap, on these boards your back foot really controlls the the load on the fin that keeps it stable.
In rough conditions you need to bear away and pick a flat section thru a trough and get the foot onto the opisite pad so yout foot is near the strap, pushing down on the edge to initiate the gybe,
At this point your body position should be bent knees and leaning into the gybe, this will keep the tail from sinking and stop the board from losing speed.
Saill wise at the same time pull in back hand push out front hand as mentioned above. what this does is puts a lot of downward pressure onto the board and helps keep the board from bouncing - lets you punch thru the chop rather than bounce over it.
As you rotatate slowly sheet out to maintian pressure in the sail. if you keep the sail too close to you as you rotate you will have a lot harder time when it comes to the flip.
Personally in strong winds i like to flip the sail really early. As you hit about 90 degree off the wind i release and and reaquire the sail on the opposite side before the board turns another 45 degrees. Ideally you want to be sheeting in while still on the reach and keeping speed up. By maintaining speed the apparant wind is very low and makes it A Lot easier to power it up for the exit.
As you sheeting in again you can just rotate your foot into the strap at this point you have both feet in straps and have the leverage you need to pull the sail into position. As soon as you feel comfortable pull youy back foot into the back strap and accelerate!
The biggest mistake most ppl do when learning is lack of commitment. almost never bend the knees enuf and lean forward into the gybe. Learning it is hard becase it really feels like you are going to get catapulted byt this only really happens because you sont commit enuf and the board slows down.
Simply put less speed = more apparent wind = harder to control.
Pull down into the boom as you get ready to unhook and keep pulling down throughout..easy for me to say.. need practise now....on entry really pull down into the boom and rake rig forward a touch so weight off rear foot & you can move it..Guy Cribb tip..really helped me..no more though..have to go to his clinics..
This is the closest video describing conditions I am talking about.
I've found concentrating on just two things helps the most. Everything else seems to fall into place by itself. Er, when I get it right.
Macro: Gybing while overpowered in chop is hard. Keep practicing. The end.
Two things:
1) Come in from high and really pick your way through the chop. Concentrate on finding a smooth path and anticipating the bumps. The appropriate curve will vary depending on conditions, speed, lulls and the like, but momentum is the thing you want to keep.
2) Be aware of the wind. You'll flip the rig at the correct moment and angle much more when you are really aware of the apparent wind. If you've practiced on land even a little bit it should be instinctive.
If you have too many things to think about while gybing you're going to have a bad time.
This video illustrates #2 beautifully. Needs sound.
beautiful example for usefulness of lay down gybe
Antoine could initiate this deep jibe any using sail....
no time wasted for moving your foot to the rail
almost all the time remains in the straps...