Has any one managed to remove one these Starboard nose protectors without doing to much damage to board? I might be getting a new (used) iS134 at the weekend, but it has this plastic lump on it, I'll be removing it straight away. Is it likely to rip a load of gel coat off or just minor paint damage? I'm hoping it just contact adhesive!
Try a hot air blower (hair dryer) and heat GENTLY along the edge while you peel up. Don't overdo the heat.
Go see your local cabinet maker, with your own container, ask for around 600mm of ABS cleaner, it will jelly up the glue and not hurt the board or plastic nor rubber, high density foam. Use the abs to clean the residual glue from board.
Select to expand quoteremoc said..
Go see your local cabinet maker, with your own container, ask for around 600mm of ABS cleaner, it will jelly up the glue and not hurt the board or plastic nor rubber, high density foam. Use the abs to clean the residual glue from board.
I don't think we can buy ABS cleaner in the UK. Is ABS cleaner a type of adhesive remover like the picture?
Angle grinder with sanding pad..
Sand the top and the front down slowly. Do it in approx 300mm long sections. Also try not to generate to much heat. As it is mentioned. Get it down to approx 0.5mm thick, use a paint scraper to remove it slowly.
Remove the M3 with Eucalyptus oil. That is how i done my JP Supercross years ago.
Hope this helps.
Select to expand quotemark62 said..remoc said..
Go see your local cabinet maker, with your own container, ask for around 600mm of ABS cleaner, it will jelly up the glue and not hurt the board or plastic nor rubber, high density foam. Use the abs to clean the residual glue from board.
I don't think we can buy ABS cleaner in the UK. Is ABS cleaner a type of adhesive remover like the picture?
I dont know this brand, but yep, as the Tab reads removes solvented adhesives, it wont hurt the board at all, i just went and tested it on my foil board. All comes down to what was used to stick it on, I would try this first as its is harmless to the board only to the adhesive that could have been used to stick it on, you'll still have to muscle it off. If its been silconed/polyurethaned or super glued on, go the grinder option as above.
Mineral turps will break down the glue and not damage the paint, or the board. I like Manuels idea of fishing line first to take off most of the pad.
Thanks all. Iv'e pick up some acetone, Turpentine, adhesive remover and 30lb fishing line (braided) and check my angle grinder still works. The silly looking nose protector will be gone this weekend.
Stick with turps, as others have said, cut away as much as you can. Cover area with an old towel, soak with turps, cover with a garbage bag so the turps doesn't dry out and leave overnight, go have a beer. Peel protector off in the morning, clean up any remaining adhesive with turps. Avoid acetone, it will soften and remove the paint.
Select to expand quoteairsail said..
Stick with turps, as others have said, cut away as much as you can. Cover area with an old towel, soak with turps, cover with a garbage bag so the turps doesn't dry out and leave overnight, go have a beer. Peel protector off in the morning, clean up any remaining adhesive with turps. Avoid acetone, it will soften and remove the paint.
I ended up using the turps and garbage method, worked well, 95% of it easily come off. I did get a bit impatient with the small remaining area, so I left some acetone on a cloth on it for an hour or so, big mistake as it softened a small area of non slip (didn't damage any paint though). Unfortunately, whoever fitted the nose protector also sanded down the area before glueing the thing on. So I just need to repaint and re-do the non slip on a small area.
All a bit of hassle and messing around, but it does/will look better for it, and I gained a little lesson on removing nose protectors. This has given me a bit more confidence to have a go at a diy boom re-grip next !!!
That's a good looking nose protector! Curious if that board was used for foiling?
Select to expand quoteMagicRide said..
That's a good looking nose protector! Curious if that board was used for foiling?
I don't think it was used for foiling (hopefully not). It only has a standard deep Tuttle, not a foil box.
The nose protector was a monster and wioukd have given a lot of extra protection, but every time I looked at it, it reminded of a beginners board so it had to go!!!
most of those protectors are factory fitted, though you can buy them separately.
had one on my futura, didn't enjoy the look of it but left it on from extra protection (not that I ever catapult .... 
)
You can pad the mast. If the glue was sticky, oil is safe (vegetable oil) both for the environment and your board!
It was written, "It only has a standard deep Tuttle, not a foil box."
The standard deep tuttle IS the mount for all tuttle-based foils. Don't get confused. The term "foil box" is what the brands are doing to try to hookwink you into using only their board and their foil combinations. This is understandable for their business, but don't be fooled by it. The foil box is a deep tuttle with a shallower inside roof. All the dimensions and curves and angles are exactly the same except for the height.
Now, if you are using a foil with a really tall deep tuttle fitting (such as some AFS, Starboard, Moses models) it might not fit into a "foil box" because the box is too shallow. I have encountered this myself with with Fanatic and Exocet. The Slingshot tuttle top is shallow enough to fit into any "foil box" out there with full seating inside and on the flange.
By the way, there is nothing standard about "foil box." The vertical dimensions vary by brand, and the slope of the roof inside varies by brand.
If you have a board (such as a formula board and many big slalom boards) with a truly deep tuttle finbox not labeled as "foil box" you can probably fit ANY tuttle-topped foil into it with full seating.
If you are nervous, match your brands. Or just use Slingshot for everything.
Select to expand quotesegler said..
It was written, "It only has a standard deep Tuttle, not a foil box."
The standard deep tuttle IS the mount for all tuttle-based foils. Don't get confused. The term "foil box" is what the brands are doing to try to hookwink you into using only their board and their foil combinations. This is understandable for their business, but don't be fooled by it. The foil box is a deep tuttle with a shallower inside roof. All the dimensions and curves and angles are exactly the same except for the height.
Now, if you are using a foil with a really tall deep tuttle fitting (such as some AFS, Starboard, Moses models) it might not fit into a "foil box" because the box is too shallow. I have encountered this myself with with Fanatic and Exocet. The Slingshot tuttle top is shallow enough to fit into any "foil box" out there with full seating inside and on the flange.
By the way, there is nothing standard about "foil box." The vertical dimensions vary by brand, and the slope of the roof inside varies by brand.
If you have a board (such as a formula board and many big slalom boards) with a truly deep tuttle finbox not labeled as "foil box" you can probably fit ANY tuttle-topped foil into it with full seating.
If you are nervous, match your brands. Or just use Slingshot for everything.
Interesting, I didn't realise this. I don't know much about foiling, so I googled deep Tuttle box ...... found some interesting stuff. I might be tempted to give it a go one day.
www.seatexboards.com/starboard-formula-into-foil-board/
Finally got round to painting the nose and patching up the Tiki man and white strips. I just need to do the non slip around the nose area, hopefully it will all blend in ok.
