Has any one managed to remove one these Starboard nose protectors without doing to much damage to board? I might be getting a new (used) iS134 at the weekend, but it has this plastic lump on it, I'll be removing it straight away. Is it likely to rip a load of gel coat off or just minor paint damage? I'm hoping it just contact adhesive!
Try a hot air blower (hair dryer) and heat GENTLY along the edge while you peel up. Don't overdo the heat.
Go see your local cabinet maker, with your own container, ask for around 600mm of ABS cleaner, it will jelly up the glue and not hurt the board or plastic nor rubber, high density foam. Use the abs to clean the residual glue from board.
Angle grinder with sanding pad..
Sand the top and the front down slowly. Do it in approx 300mm long sections. Also try not to generate to much heat. As it is mentioned. Get it down to approx 0.5mm thick, use a paint scraper to remove it slowly.
Remove the M3 with Eucalyptus oil. That is how i done my JP Supercross years ago.
Hope this helps.
Mineral turps will break down the glue and not damage the paint, or the board. I like Manuels idea of fishing line first to take off most of the pad.
Thanks all. Iv'e pick up some acetone, Turpentine, adhesive remover and 30lb fishing line (braided) and check my angle grinder still works. The silly looking nose protector will be gone this weekend.
Stick with turps, as others have said, cut away as much as you can. Cover area with an old towel, soak with turps, cover with a garbage bag so the turps doesn't dry out and leave overnight, go have a beer. Peel protector off in the morning, clean up any remaining adhesive with turps. Avoid acetone, it will soften and remove the paint.
most of those protectors are factory fitted, though you can buy them separately.
had one on my futura, didn't enjoy the look of it but left it on from extra protection (not that I ever catapult .... )
You can pad the mast. If the glue was sticky, oil is safe (vegetable oil) both for the environment and your board!
It was written, "It only has a standard deep Tuttle, not a foil box."
The standard deep tuttle IS the mount for all tuttle-based foils. Don't get confused. The term "foil box" is what the brands are doing to try to hookwink you into using only their board and their foil combinations. This is understandable for their business, but don't be fooled by it. The foil box is a deep tuttle with a shallower inside roof. All the dimensions and curves and angles are exactly the same except for the height.
Now, if you are using a foil with a really tall deep tuttle fitting (such as some AFS, Starboard, Moses models) it might not fit into a "foil box" because the box is too shallow. I have encountered this myself with with Fanatic and Exocet. The Slingshot tuttle top is shallow enough to fit into any "foil box" out there with full seating inside and on the flange.
By the way, there is nothing standard about "foil box." The vertical dimensions vary by brand, and the slope of the roof inside varies by brand.
If you have a board (such as a formula board and many big slalom boards) with a truly deep tuttle finbox not labeled as "foil box" you can probably fit ANY tuttle-topped foil into it with full seating.
If you are nervous, match your brands. Or just use Slingshot for everything.
Finally got round to painting the nose and patching up the Tiki man and white strips. I just need to do the non slip around the nose area, hopefully it will all blend in ok.