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Has anyone got any experience with regripping decks?
More specifically removing the grip, adding graphics (eg. stickers), then regripping?
Any instructions, or links to intructions?
Cheers
Removing the grip- sander, dont sand away the old edge and mask from that point.
Getting new graphics- local dealer, if you are careful with the sander the graphics will remain untouched. I've just finished an f2 wizzard and there is only 1 place where i got a bit carried away the rest is un-noticeable after the new grip is on.
New grip- there is the stuff in the can, which is ok but dosent last all that long and dosent really give a nice finish. I use UV stabilised epoxy and intergrip, gives long lasting grip and you can vary the amount of grip to your liking. I added a bit of acetone to the epoxy yesterday to thin it out a bit and it seems to have all worked fine and gave a nice finish.
i used some boat epoxy stuff and some grip powder. Didn't work, went yellow and ruined 4 boards (as i did them all in one go). The guy who sold me the kit (and told me it wouldn't go yellow) redid the grip with spray stuff which was much better.
If you can, pratice in advance on some wood or something.
Good luck!!!
Most epoxy hardeners will turn yellow. The one I have is for stuff like timber clear coating etc and will not yellow (but it is twice the price of standard hardener). I have done 3 boards with it and none have discoloured at all.
It will discolour slightly eventually but all non-skids do that anyway, you cant win against UV.
mk7 where do you buy UV stabilised epoxy and intergrip and what brand names have you found best?
surfboard quality pokyester finishing resin does the best job, it's harder and clearer than epoxy. It just doeasn't stick as well to some surfaces so you have to be carefull. Don't think I'd try it on plastic stickers for example. I've had some on top of 2 pack urethane paint for several years now and it's fine. Just don't let any get down your bung hole!!!! And don't use it near any epoxy that's not completly cured.
If I was regripping a polyester board I would for sure use the surfboard resin as it is much cheaper $10 vs $30 or something, it's just I've been regripping epoxy boards (stickered and some plastic skinned). Harder- now that they are including the wax is it as hard? Either way both resins will last as long or longer than stock grips.
lookkc- I like the International Intergrip non skid aggregate, when I first started doing boards chandlery suggested glass beads... all beads are too harsh (I know i've got 2 different grades I cant do anything with- one day I might treat some stairs or something). With the International stuff you can load it up if you want coarse etc, pepper shaker works perfect for this.
The resin is from these guys- boatcraft.com.au/informationpages/productoverview.htm
They are based at Loganholme and were very helpful (and their general epoxy price seemed quite reasonable).
Anyone know where to get the rubber to make the rubber footpads, like the old gorilla grip material?
i will reveal the secret formula used by me to reproduce factory clear non skid if someone asks me really politely and nicely! including board preparation.
well firstly with production boards the clear original non skid can be left but remove all footstraps and fittings and then scrub the board viciously with yer mums laundry scrubbing brush and ajax powder (not lemon or liquid)and hot water. boards with bodgy yellowed non skid need to be scraped or sanded back to the base material.there is no easy way to achieve this process, just hard work. if you wish to apply stickers,decals, etc then the board should be wet sanded with 240# sandpaper to a smooth finish, this takes some elbow greaseand then also scrub board with ajax. make sure that you hose the board good and then let it dry in the sun properly.
using masking tape cover the pads, trimming with single sided razor.
mask the rail line if you wish to have a gloss rail and definately mask the bottom with tape and newspaper(overspray goes everywhere)
to non skid you need a compressor with adjustable regulator and spraygun with bottom resevoir not gravity fed.
purchase international yacht paints intersurf non skid powder (from ships chandlery), 2 pack clear gloss automotive paint, automotive thinners and flattening base (all small quantities)from panelbeaters supplies. sometimes they can make you the litre or less of the 2 pack with the flattening base added, worth the ask.
get a 400g baked bean tin suitably washed and dried and mix 200 ml combined of the 2 pack clear toxic sh1t and add two heaped tablespoons of the powder to the mix stirring, o i sound like jamie oliver. then almost top up the tin with thinners leaving an inch to the top. keep stirring always.
pour the liquid death into the spray gun only after you have covered yourself in protective clothing/suitable vapormasks/gloves make sure workspace is properly ventilated.
and try the spray on a test panel at 20 psi full open feed wide spray pattern with a medium fast sweeping motion.
if the pressure is too much the beads of non skid will bounce off the surface so the pressure has to be set so that the non skid just spits out of the gun. if it comes out stringy or gluggy then you need more thinners.keep the mix agitated always as the non skid powder always settles fast.long slow full length passes of the board with the gun with pauses not to create runs will ensure a factory finish.
Thanks greenie, I almost forgot ur board making/repairing guru-ness. The last time I remember you posting at length on the subject was back when I first joined the forum.
When I grow up i'll get a big shed with compressor and air tools and spray guns and I will indeed use you're method 
hillbillie! read 350g of material of which 150g evaporates. added weight to board 200g.
coats of resin/laquer weigh heaps look/sh1t and wreck the resale of your..........oh why do i bother.
