Cracked the nose on the carve 131. It had to happen!
I got the board at a good price as it already had a few repairs and given the learning curve I'm on I expected a few more repairs myself
I have some experience with composite work building model airplanes so I thought I'd give the nose repair a go.
Had the board standing nose down overnight - nothing came out.
I can see that water has entered the board due some discoloration along the grain on the deck.
I've removed some of the Brocken glass.
The sealed of the crack and applied vacuum
Pump is drawing a fair bit and there is some evidence of flow through from the open bung. I use a bit of spit and plastic bag as a test :-)
How long is it reasonable to dry the board before proceeding with a repair?
I want to go out again next weekend.
Any suggestions on where to proceed from here. I'm generally following the board lady website.
Video of air venting
Not really useful advice here....Well done on the nose. I was the expert on smashed noses a few years ago, but lost my touch the more I sailed. Best of luck with the repair, I'm interested in how it goes.
Is that yellow putty the proper vacuum sealing stuff or some ad hoc kluge?
I was thinking of using plasticine just because I can get hold of it easily, but I suppose I could order the correct stuff on the web.
I just want to do some de-watering at the moment but I'll have to fix the thing properly at some point (ding in rail).
Are there ad hoc substitutes for peel ply and breather layer?
I have used tacky tape. It is the proper stuff. Get it from composite shops.
Here in Brisbane CG composites usually have it. I've used blue tack as a cludge job sometimes
However for a small job putting down a layer of packing tape than using cheap latex tile filler / crack filler in a tube (bunnings) also works but can migrate into the job area
If your local to north side Brisbane you can have some if mine
Peel ply is pretty cheap from CG, FGi But Dacron from a dress shop works also - test first. Got some genuine stuff if you need it.
Breather. Paper towel, bubble wrap, multiple layers of dress lining material. Fly screen, shade cloth, nylon rope. :-)
Cheers jeff
Select to expand quotejirvin4505 said..
Cracked the nose on the carve 131. It had to happen!
I got the board at a good price as it already had a few repairs and given the learning curve I'm on I expected a few more repairs myself
I have some experience with composite work building model airplanes so I thought I'd give the nose repair a go.
Had the board standing nose down overnight - nothing came out.
I can see that water has entered the board due some discoloration along the grain on the deck.
I've removed some of the Brocken glass.
The sealed of the crack and applied vacuum
Pump is drawing a fair bit and there is some evidence of flow through from the open bung. I use a bit of spit and plastic bag as a test :-)
How long is it reasonable to dry the board before proceeding with a repair?
I want to go out again next weekend.
Any suggestions on where to proceed from here. I'm generally following the board lady website.
Video of air venting
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Cheers Jeff
Nasty ding Jeff - interested in how it goes a couple of small ones on the monster - I have reinforced tape from Bunnings on them as a sealer at present - Just bought my first fibreglass/resin repair kit the other day. Hope it goes well. Cheers Morgan
Hi Morgan
Spend some time looking over the material on the board lady site
boardlady.com/repairmenu.htm
Make sure your resin system is compatible with your board, most board need epoxy resin
Cheers Jeff
Jeff
I've just had a good read of the boardlady.com site.
Eva is a wizard. Her explanations are comprehensive, instructive, concise, easy to understand and amusing. This web site is a must read for all sailboarders, SUP riders and surfers.
Thanks for tip.
Is the vacuum pump a commercial off-the-shelf unit? Or is this something that can be made up? Any issue in using a household vacuum cleaner (wet and dry ones)?
My personal experience says that there will definitely be water in the board with such a crack. I would leave it to dry for at least a couple days. Maybe use some heat from the sun to accelerate evaporation. You could also sand/grind off the whole repair area before vacuum pumping more water out.
Hi Grumpy
It is a commercial 'hospital grade' pump :-)
Easiest pump to get is an old fridge motor. I saw a unit described on this forum recently
They are well described on many forums - search fridge motor vacuum pump
Don't think a vacuum cleaner has the necessary suction plus it would probably burn out ?
I've let the board dry for a couple if days.
Will push on with repair tomorrow. Probably use 2 part pour in foam to fill the foam voids.
Then multiple layers of glass to build up the skins once the foam kicks off and can be trimmed
Cheers Jeff
^^^ +1
vacuum cleaner no good as it will run with not much air coming out of the board so it will overheat pretty fast.
Using vacuum for patching dings must invite sucking air from inside the board and forming bubbles in the patch.
Do you only use vacuum for the outside skins?
