No it's not a drink made with tomato juice, it's what i have in my sailing box. Has anyone solved the problem? I've had a look for stainless P3, but my efforts have met with limited success.
Wiha makes stainless drivers for aerospace applications where plated tools are not allowed. Prices aren't too bad.
How long does it take for an ordinary driver to go too rusty?
Is the cost of replacing them less economical than spending more money on a stainless version?
I like to have a driver in my backpack, these ended up like this after one summer.
Are those your backups? If so, You can put them in a ziplock bag and will stay pristine forever
Just put them in a metal toolbox with a current thru it
go on you know you want to invent something, ask Imax
Eliminate the screw driver...Use stainless 6mm hex bolts instead (Bunnings) and use a socket driver. You can put more torque on which is useful for fins with a flange but also very useful getting them out if you leave your fins in the board and the bolts seize to the barrel nuts. The sockets seem to be made of better material that doesn't corrode..I've been using one 10mm 1/4" drive socket with a 10cm extension to clear the footstraps for 4+ years and no sign of corrosion.
I painted mine, had the black paint out anyway. Now only the very tip is rusty.
Understandable if you want to go sailing with it, but I can't say I've ever had one rust to a concerning level. Usually I find I need a new one because tip has worn to the point where the screwdriver slips. As nice as it is, I don't think stainless will help with that problem.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Just put them in a metal toolbox with a current thru it
go on you know you want to invent something, ask Imax
I find the weight of the battery with enough current bogs the board down.
^^ But keeps sharks away (apparently)
It is proportionate to your gullibility, fear of sharks and size of your wallet though
