With lots of windsurfing gear, wife willing to purchase a SUP for coming summer season and other family members (we are 5) who are also willing to enjoy their time on the water and learn how to windsurf or go kayaking there are not many transport options available.....any car is too small.
I think the time has come to build a trailer to fit all the gear and just go to all these beautiful spots which WA has to offer without leaving anything behind .... The idea was born to build a custom trailer to suit our family needs.
I have decided to share and document the work in progress here on forum for all those who are considering to build a trailer but not sure where to start and for all others. Do not hesitate to ask questions or to comment / suggest improvements as the project progresses.
Episode 1: "A Month or so ago... Gumtree here I come..."
First Idea - find a good and reasonably priced second hand trailer as a basis to build on.
I am not sure how many days and hours I spent searching Gumtree for "suitable candidate" but what I know is my windsurfing skill level would be much better if I would have windsurfed instead 
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Every single time I found something interesting and went to have a look it turned to be an absolutely buggered old piece of art.....
The framework/ base on all of them were either completely corroded or in "arc" shape from using the trailer well overloaded.
It seemed like they long past their retirements age being well used and abused in home building or renovation projects.
Very funny that people still asking top dollars for this scrap metal and also funny that actually some people will end up buying it...
After few of these very close inspections and even more wasted time I got really frustrated 
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I knew there are only two ways to go:
1.) increase my spending budget (to more then $400) to get something better or
2.) do some research on how much it will cost to actually build one..... Surely it can not be so hard...
Over here in Sydney, it seems that second hand rusted out trailers go for about $300. If you want one to use as a basis of changing to a windsurfing trailer, you are probably better off finding a new one for $500, which they sometimes sell for. People seem to leave trailers full of stuff and they rust fast. In my experience the way they are built means that replacing the rusted sections is not practical. They tend to use folded metal and when it rusts, you can't easily replace that section. Compare that to a trailer I got from my grandfather, which is probably more than 40 years old, but because it was built from angle iron and sheet metal you can replace sections easily. Yet its still a strong and light-weight trailer.
I have heard of people buying trailers just for the ID and building something almost from scratch, instead of getting it inspected and blue slipped.
I built my own trailer 18 years ago rhs and aluminium sheeting. Just striped out floor painted the complete trailer looks new again.
Stop wasting your time build it from scratch and get what you want.
If I was building again I would use the aluminium composit sheets that most are using now on there trailers
Tip make sure you put gas struts on your doors it's worth it
My trailer started life a boat trailer and got converted to a motorbike trailer before I purchased it (off ebay) and made it a windsurfing trailer. Two doors up front, roof tilts up on gas struts and back opens for a ramp. I just added 4 timber rails and stapled marine carpet on them to make 2 shelves.
A normal 6x4 is to short, if your going to convert something go for a boat trailer as suggest already.
Episode 2: approx 2 weeks ago "Man I got soooo lucky..."
Decision was really easy to make.
I am not going to spend over $500 for a better looking junk. I will build a brand new one from scratch instead. This way I can make it how I like it and build it to last for ever!
After my research I found the material costs to build a frame is actually way cheaper than buying an old trailer so no brainer really.
What I needed was welding equipment and somebody who knows how to weld properly. As I am working for a company with a steel workshop I have asked my bosses for permission to utilize the company equipment which was granted. Thanks boss#1, Thanks boss#2, I really appreciate it 
My steel welding colleagues utilized my skills for various home projects in the past so there was no problem to get one of them to help with his welding skills.
I have purchased few lengths of Duragal 50x 50 SHS from our local steel supplier, created a drawing of the frame and went to the workshop to have a chat with my mates about my project, and what happened next was a pure luck....
....I have been told that one of our maintenance guys saved a Land Cruiser axial from a trailer which was dismantled few days ago and I can have it if I want... Gosh I am a lucky man.... The axial was in "as new" condition and fresh painted.
Next day I went to "Martins Trailer Parts" shop and got a great advise on what else I need so I end up buying all the remaining parts and went back home thinking again about how lucky I am...
This is the result so far after a week of work after hours.... Thanks STEVE for your help with welding it together mate!
Built mine from scratch, photos in profile, but here's the plan
Basic frame has lasted 20yrs but its time for a new one. Its a bit lighter construction than your one. Basic construction 35x75x3.5 RHS frame with 35x35x3 EA cross members to support timber ply floor all painted with a 3 part paint system. No Dura gal back then. Top frame is 20x20x2.5 SHS with smaller 15x15x1.8SHS to pick up the sheeting. Its had a new top about 10yrs ago which is still good with just a good paint system, no gal.
That's a sweet trailer Byron has. If only I had the skill to build my own, but alas, I know my limitations! Now the business is up and running I am saving my cookies for Greg.K to build me one in his spare time :-)
Nice trailer Byron, and it still looks to be in good shape after all the years of service.
There is very hard to find this kind of quality builds this days..... I will definitely go for gas struts.
Also nice looking trailer Cammd I like the idea with the front doors but the ramp I think is not as practical as the door opening up and protecting you from sun at the same time.
Do you guys having problems with water leaking to the inside? How did you seal it? Rubber gasket?
Your trailer is looking very heavy duty for windsurfing gear. Don't make it too heavy to tow around. I used a Gokart trailer as a starting point. It's great being low for towing but wish it had a bit more height inside. Slowly been adding more things to it over time and setting up how I want it.
I started with an open 6x4.5 with modifications (PhilSWR now owns it).
Next I wanted enclosed and lockable so bought a Gokart trailer to modify.
Which looks like this now.
I've ended up putting a 65L water tank underneath with a 12v pump for washing gear. Next is installing a battery and wiring it all up with a switch panel for ease. Also have bought a bunch of internal LED lighting for those late sessions.
Anyway looking forward to the rest of your build.
Cheers
Marty
I used stainless piano hinge then glue thin 100 wide strip of rubber Clark rubber
Now you can get self sealing hinge as shown on front of my trailer I fitted this a year ago
I also made my gas struts come out a bit on the door as this then self closes the door in the closed position. That's the mechanical engineer comming out of me.
Lights I got on eBay got them with reversing lights in them and they are water proof led they were not around when I built it in 1996.
Few updates for beginning of the week:
I have found four wheels on GT with good tyres for $100.00 (not bad I think)
This will be ok for the minute before I go for nice fency looking alloys..with this extra cash I dont have :)
Axial springs and coupler mounted to the frame, chain welded on..... it already starts looking like a trailer.
Next step painting it as long as weather allows...
What size chain did you use? I think the standards now require the chains to be stamped with their rating. Supposedly if you don't then they will fail you on the inspection (at least over here). Having said that, I haven't seen any factory trailers with these markings stamped on the chain.
Select to expand quoteFormulaNova said...
What size chain did you use? I think the standards now require the chains to be stamped with their rating. Supposedly if you don't then they will fail you on the inspection (at least over here). Having said that, I haven't seen any factory trailers with these markings stamped on the chain.
Thanks for your question. I have used what was available..... It is not stamped. I will check with trailer part supplier tomorrow.
I did not see any stamped chains on any trailer I used before... however this one will be new registered so there is high chance the law has actually changed.... 
Can't wait to see it in person. As for mag rims, a $12 pair of plastic hub caps from supercheap do wonders.
Trailer frame painted today with a good quality etch primer for galvanized steel.
After checking the standard requirements re chains rating marking etc. It looks like there is no way around it but just to cut the chain which is already on
Thank you to all who made me aware of this regulations....
The only" strange" regulation is not allowing for the chain to be welded to the drawbar direct but to weld it to a steel plate which then can be welded to a drawbar.... Is this not a strange regulation? I guess I need to find the "appropriate" way to do this tomorrow.
Maybe I will call the workshop where I am planning to register the trailer to confirm the way they want to see this done....
This is a very nice looking trailer moondo what are the overall dimensions?
My one will be 1.22m wide and 2.44 long to the point where the angle starts overall length approx 3.5m.
Your one is perhaps wider?
You did the correct thing using etch primer.
My trailer is a lot bigger as it was designed to fit a long board and 4.6m one piece mast. It is 5m long and 1.5m wide. Last year when we went to sandy point we fitted 10 boards in it 12 sails 8 booms and this included two formula boards and 5 formula sails.
I think it's funny so thought I'd show you
Select to expand quoteMaaxim said..
The only" strange" regulation is not allowing for the chain to be welded to the drawbar direct but to weld it to a steel plate which then can be welded to a drawbar.... Is this not a strange regulation? I guess I need to find the "appropriate" way to do this tomorrow.
Are you sure about this detail? I think it says 'as close as practicable', but I don't think it says you can't attach to the drawbar. In my case, I have a plate to which the coupling is bolted, and the plate is welded to the drawbar, so this makes sense to weld it to that.
In your case, that same plate is the drawbar, so you would think it would make sense to weld to that.
Are you using 1 or 2 chains. I like the idea of 2 chains and crossing them for safety.
Select to expand quoteAre you sure about this detail? I think it says 'as close as practicable', but I don't think it says you can't attach to the drawbar. In my case, I have a plate to which the coupling is bolted, and the plate is welded to the drawbar, so this makes sense to weld it to that.
In your case, that same plate is the drawbar, so you would think it would make sense to weld to that.
Are you using 1 or 2 chains. I like the idea of 2 chains and crossing them for safety.
Well.... like any other standards it is open for different interpretations. I will attach 2 chains to the drawbar using hammerlocks (shackle not permited).
Select to expand quoteMaaxim said..Are you sure about this detail? I think it says 'as close as practicable', but I don't think it says you can't attach to the drawbar. In my case, I have a plate to which the coupling is bolted, and the plate is welded to the drawbar, so this makes sense to weld it to that.
In your case, that same plate is the drawbar, so you would think it would make sense to weld to that.
Are you using 1 or 2 chains. I like the idea of 2 chains and crossing them for safety.
Well.... like any other standards it is open for different interpretations. I will attach 2 chains to the drawbar using hammerlocks (shackle not permited).
Ahh, I didn't realise you were making a trailer exceeding 3.5 tonnes ATM. Sorry. That must be a lot of gear you are taking with you 
If you have a look, you are looking at a section dealing with greater than 3.5t ATM. In an earlier section of the document it mentions trailers less than this ATM:
Chain used in trailers up to 3500 kgs ATM must comply with Australian Standard AS4177 Caravan and light trailer towing components - Part 4 Safety chains up to 3500 kg capacity.
The size of chain according to trailer ATM is specified in Table 1 below.
If the chain is to be welded to the drawbar, the weld must cover at least 50% of the length of the link and the adjoining link must be able to move freely within the welded link. Alternatively a plate may be welded to the drawbar and suitably rated fittings such as Hammerlock fittings may be employed.
I accept that these documents are not that easy to read though, so feel free to send me payment for the consultancy
It was interesting to read that they never policed these safety chain requirements before because the chain was hard to source. That makes sense.
When I was looking to find this stuff, I found a reference to Bullivants having it as 'lifting chain'. I haven't made the effort of going and asking them, but I am sure I saw it on a website of theirs.
Just as an aside, over here in NSW, the registration charges and inspection requirements change with the weight of the trailer. I can't remember the figures, but once it reaches a certain weight, it gets charged a much higher rego, and requires an annual inspection. If it has an increased capacity above 750kgs, it requires brakes to be fitted.
Accordingly I think a lot of people modify existing light-weight trailers so they don't have to get them weighed again. Alternatively they might be getting the barest of the trailer registered, and adding on the rest afterwards.
What are the requirements in WA? I guess annual inspections are not required, but are rego fees higher based on the weight of the trailer?
Select to expand quoteAhh, I didn't realise you were making a trailer exceeding 3.5 tonnes ATM. Sorry. That must be a lot of gear you are taking with you
If you have a look, you are looking at a section dealing with greater than 3.5t ATM. In an earlier section of the document it mentions trailers less than this ATM:
Chain used in trailers up to 3500 kgs ATM must comply with Australian Standard AS4177 Caravan and light trailer towing components - Part 4 Safety chains up to 3500 kg capacity.
The size of chain according to trailer ATM is specified in Table 1 below.
If the chain is to be welded to the drawbar, the weld must cover at least 50% of the length of the link and the adjoining link must be able to move freely within the welded link. Alternatively a plate may be welded to the drawbar and suitably rated fittings such as Hammerlock fittings may be employed.
I accept that these documents are not that easy to read though, so feel free to send me payment for the consultancy
You are absolutely correct mate! My bad for misreading it.... The guy in the shop gave me 2 chains and he did ask how heavy the trailer is hehehe....
Point taken, free carton for you, pickup Lucky Bay WA
I need to start reading standards in the early hours I guess... lol otherwise it will cost me alot to by all the gear to fill the trailer hehehehehe lmfao
Hi Maaxim, Dimensions of my trailer are L 3100mm x W 1600mm. so a bit wider than yours. I have also extended the nose cone since the original build, to 3600mm in order to put the SUP in. No pics of the mod though
Moondo, I like your trailer mate. I just see that flat timber area as a post-sail bar with a few beers and snacks...
I had a dedicated trailer once, but ended up selling it and bought a 7x4 box trailer with removable racks so I can use it for more than just windsurfing - dump runs, motorbike, hardware store etc.
I'm enjoying watching your build Maaxim.
