So Friday after rinsing watch, drying and connecting to computer I noticed a little yellow button on the desktop. It did look vaguely familar, so checked the watch, yep, minus the adjust button.
So now I have to decide what to do.
I think it's still water proof, the adjust function still works with a screwdriver or similar tool.
Here's what the watch looks like now.
I've pulled a button with actuator out of Pepe's case with the broken strap.
So here's the two of them. Mine's obviously broken because the cheap Chinese stainless has rusted through, Pepe's is in much better condition, he probably was more conscientious about rinsing after every session.
It wasn't a problem removing, but I'm not sure these old fingers can replace that tiny circlip.
Also I can't work out how the seal works, looks like a very neat fit for the shaft in the case, but a rusted shaft will quickly destroy and seal that relies on that. There's also no obvious reason why pressing the button should allow the unit to vent. That circlip is the only thing contacting the inner case when unpressed. The spring and washer are on the outside, so the washer only gets pressed harder against the case when button is pressed.
The circlip isn't going to create a seal against the inner case.
At the moment I'm inclined to leave well enough alone and see how long the other buttons last.
BUT it is a warning to be very thorough with your rinsing, you've got to get the salt water out behind the buttons
Congratulations on proving Murphy's law again - anything that can go wrong will go wrong . The GW60 seems to be an amazing tool for this.
Perhaps the Chinese interpretation of "stainless" is "stains less if you keep it dry". I just got some "stainless" track nuts from Slingshot at $9 a piece which got rusty after the very first session. Other stainless (316) bolts that I bough locally for a lot less don't show the slightest bit of rust after many sessions.
So I've thought about the sealing thing for a while, and still none the wiser. But I guess there's a posibility the little yellow button seals against the side of it's hole. Just in case I'll use some silicon to do the job instead, and hope I don't need to use the button.
My 11 month old watch was fogging so I bought some Oring lube from my pool shop I have been packing it around the buttons to help seal them the fogging has gone so I think it's working. I have since bought a second watch which I have also packed with lube. Time will tell if this works.
Just replaced a button on a broken GW60 today. Used a small flat screw driver to push circlip back on. Also replaced a battery same time from another failed watch as mine has failed after 180 uses.
The stainless charging and computer communication stainless circular contacts on the back were corroded so replaced them with some newer ones removed from broken watches. They also have a small circlip which can be removed and push out old stainless one.
I have been putting tap and Oring sealer I bought from Bunnings on seal of back cover before putting back together.
Do not use buttons on water and wash with fresh water before using button to turn off.
The watch had no corrosion internally.
Always use Garmin for numbers on water with windsurf app.
Alpha is only number I look at GW60 for on water and wait for it to cycle through.
This is how I have set my GW60.
Good work cocky 2. Thanks for the info. I'd never have thought of replacing the connection contacts.
I don't trust these shaky old hands with that tiny circlip, it's likely to spring off into another dimension if I try.
I've just sealed over the adjust button hole.
slightly off topic... given all the broken watch-bands, has anyone found a suitable wrist-band-like-thing that might be used to hold the now face-only device ?
Using lube around my buttons is working Im now getting no fogging in my screen not sure if it was the weather causing it or it got some water integracion.