I have got the tricky stage out of the way, now I can sleep easy not having to worry about the vacuum running all night. Tried out the aluminium clamping system on the bag and it worked a treat although it is pretty tight with 2 x 200um sheets/1 tube. I used 12x12 channel with 6mm PVC tube. Next up are the fittings...
Using up scraps, 3mm plain on the left, perforated on the right.
Pre-forming the Dcell with a heat gun.
Softened the winglet for continuity of the sandwich, will restore the wing with filler after the deck is laminated.
Tail panels fitted so that they can support the deck sandwich from below.
Gunking the rails for the Dcell wrap.
Fitting the bag and critical rail join.
Flipped over in the morning with the heat lamps on - bit of a cold spell at the moment with nights in the low 10's.
Bag seal with 12mm channel and 6mm ID PVC tube.
Deck sandwich trimmed with the snap-off knife blade.
Finished composite Dcell deck - no more scraps left, just in time as my bulk shipment of Corecell and Dcell has just arrived for the next 3 boards! Love it!
There has been a bit more progress with the perfect weather we are having!
Foot strap inserts, track, box and breather base are in, Deck is bagged(200g Twill carbon, 130g plain glass + patches) and initial sanding is almost finished. Next up is to fill a few low spots I should have filled before glassing but couldn't be humphried, then a finishing coat for polishing.
I glassed(2 x 130g plain glass + patches) the hull old school(not bagged) and everything was sweet until some gassing of the dcell combined with some crimped glass to form a few bubbles. Yet more repair work
. The newer surfboard glass(130g) seems to use smaller glass bundles(and have larger openings in the weave) which leaves more resin on the layup table. I think the layup might have been on the dry side as a result which doesn't help. I probably should have glassed the hull on the board then feathering the 2 layers around the rail would have been easier.
All scribbled into the mental note book for the next board...Sorry for all the photos - I have been too busy doing rather than posting. There are a few tricks I tried for the hidden inserts which worked well.
Select to expand quoteJas71 said..
Kimba she looks the bom, i hope it performers better than you hope.
Cheers Jas, hopefully she has PB potential! Select to expand quoteYetti said..
Might have to get my order in for a 85 liter Creeper :-)
Next up is a Creeper 58, we will have to see what volume the model comes out at... Select to expand quoteyoyo said..
What is the reason for taking the tail cutout up to the deck?
Cutout to the deck is for several reasons:
Easier & quicker to make.
More structurally sound with forces loaded on a vertical wall rather than a stepped wall.
Limited space on a low volume tail to have a cutout below the heel pad and still maintain a comfortable roll on the rail.
I think the area of the cutout when stepped would not contibute too much to early planing and the width at the heel pad has been slightly increased(1cm) to compensate.
The main reason for the cutout is a clean release(bottom and rail) and slightly wider tail without increased tail area.
Is it worth having? I hope to find out in a few weeks...
interested to get a ball park cost to build the board? materials only, labour is love, and you have the ultimate custom board.
is it the desire to be creative and develop your own thoughts rather than buy "Off the shelf"?
Select to expand quoteboardboy said..
what colour are you gonna paint it?
White or grey on the bottom, clear polished epoxy on the top and rails. I didn't have any problems with my black fanatics at Lake George and that is where the board will be used primarily.Select to expand quotejsr said..
interested to get a ball park cost to build the board? materials only, labour is love, and you have the ultimate custom board.
is it the desire to be creative and develop your own thoughts rather than buy "Off the shelf"?
I have used a lot of left over materials but a ball part would be $650 for full carbon deck but cheap chinook finbox. Add to that all of the equipment costs and you would want to make more than one...running costs are 1 bottle of shaping fluid / night
My first board in ~1993 was to save money(and see if I could actually do it).
Now the objectives are:
To get what I want in a board that won't lose $1000/year in value.
To make a board with care and with quality materials that will last.
Avoid getting caught up in the equipment race and spending big $ on gear that isn't used that much.
I also miss the buzz I used to get from people saying "you made it yourself!".
I have tried to add a few tweaks to this current board but rarely are designs completely new. The board is based on what I like about 3 or 4 other boards I have owned in the past...
I saw Creeper 48 or 47.5 in the flesh today. What a beast Kimba - well done
.
Can't wait to see the finished article
...
Limbs, (ha my phone's autocorrect changed kimba to limbs)
Thoroughly enjoying this thread - really appreciate you sharing your expertise in fine detail.
Awesome job Kimba, great to see people trying stuff out and doing their own thing. As a matter of interest here is the tail of the new MxR Lovenoodle thingy.....
Martin, that looks a little more elegant, probably stronger structurally but no doubt a bit trickier to build for someone who I guess is busting to get out on Lake George.
Select to expand quoteyoyo said..
What is the reason for taking the tail cutout up to the deck?
very common tail shape going through to the deck
Select to expand quoteCarl Macdonald said..
I saw Creeper 48 or 47.5 in the flesh today. What a beast Kimba - well done.
Can't wait to see the finished article...
I really should measure the finished board as I have changed a few things along the way...
Select to expand quotesausage said..
Limbs, (ha my phone's autocorrect changed kimba to limbs)
Thoroughly enjoying this thread - really appreciate you sharing your expertise in fine detail.
I like to show the warts and all - not just hero shots, glad you are liking the story Snags!
Select to expand quotemr love said..
Awesome job Kimba, great to see people trying stuff out and doing their own thing. As a matter of interest here is the tail of the new MxR Lovenoodle thingy.....
Cheers Martin, good to see more Lovethingys on the way!
Select to expand quotechoco said..
yoyo said..
What is the reason for taking the tail cutout up to the deck?
very common tail shape going through to the deck
Nice tails all round. I had a curved cutout on my last concept but went the iSonic looking route. Love those RS boards Choco!
So hopefully the board has its maiden voyage tomorrow. I have not had a chance to update the build photos(as I have been building the Bloody thing!!!) but will put them up when I get back. Until then here is the board getting the final clear coat, sanding, non-skid and the amine blush washed from the non-skid. I will keep a matt finish which shows the weave when wet - just like the finish on fins. My non-skid was late night inspirado and I already don't like the waistcoat looking front - this will change down the track. Also had a bit of trouble with the non-skid fisheyeing over to 1200 finish underneath - another experience for the memory bank. This will be the last clear finished board I do, opaque sanding coats are so much quicker to finish.
Select to expand quoteKimba said..
.absolutely fantastic kimba 
I can see silicon on the non sanded deck, probabley the fisheye , what did you use for a clear filler coat, have you weighed the board
Select to expand quotesausage said..
Excellent work Tim. Looking forward to hearing how it goes.
Well I didn't get the Creeper wet on the weekend, hopefully next trip. Looked nice on the beach tho...Select to expand quotejimbob SA said.. cool can I try it tmro, see you at LG
Next visit you get a ride - I promise!Select to expand quotekeef said..
.absolutely fantastic kimba I can see silicon on the non sanded deck, probabley the fisheye , what did you use for a clear filler coat, have you weighed the board
I used West 207 Special clear hardener(with 105 resin) for the carbon lamination and topcoat. Has a UV additive but a UV vanish is recommended. I wont worry as it wont be in the sun to often...I haven't weighed the board but it feels light but solid if that makes sense...
Hopefully I get to test her soon!
Good tip on sealing the plastic bag with alum c channel.
How is exactly this part made to connect sucking hose to the plastic bag ?
I need to laminate my poly sheets 2400 x1200 for my catamaran, What sort of plastic bag you are using and where to get it? if 200 micrometer black poly from Bunnings will be good enough?
macro I've used black poly and it works ok, but not being able to see what's happening is a pain. I've used their clear plastic without a problem
Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..
Good tip on sealing the plastic bag with alum c channel.
How is exactly this part made to connect sucking hose to the plastic bag ?
I need to laminate my poly sheets 2400 x1200 for my catamaran, What sort of plastic bag you are using and where to get it? if 200 micrometer black poly from Bunnings will be good enough?
I will take some pics of my vac bag connector tomorrow...its made from leftover poly fittings - a 1/2" flanged M-F elbow with gasket to seal on the inside of the bag. I cant bring myself to pay $75 for an off the shelf one and have not had the time to program and machine the version I have designed. Another winter project...
I did a lot of running around to source the bag (at a good price) but ended up finding a local small volume manufacturer, its 1m wide and 200um. Minimum Qty was a 25 Kg roll which is a pretty bloody heavy for a roll of plastic! It is also great for putting under the laminating rack, making patterns for the sandwich foam, taping to the layup table etc. I am not sure Bunnings do lay-flat tube.
Stuff I used was a folded sheet, had to seal one side, used windscreen fixing mastic.
This isn't a post on how to build a board, I think this is an awesome orgasmic experience...
Thanks Kimba to share your knowledge with us mate
Hats off for Kimba!!!
Thanks a lot
Select to expand quoteMarty1970 said..
This isn't a post on how to build a board, I think this is an awesome orgasmic experience...
Thanks Kimba to share your knowledge with us mateHats off for Kimba!!!
Thanks a lot
Haha, thanks Marty! Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..
Good tip on sealing the plastic bag with alum c channel.
How is exactly this part made to connect sucking hose to the plastic bag ?
I need to laminate my poly sheets 2400 x1200 for my catamaran, What sort of plastic bag you are using and where to get it? if 200 micrometer black poly from Bunnings will be good enough?
Here are some shots of the super quick Vac Bag Fitting. The socket in the base plate is cut from an identical elbow to that on the top. The ply is cut with a holesaw and the fitting bogged in airtight. Some 5mm EPDM foam is used on the bottom with 4 channels cut through the foam and into the ply. Ideally you want the base as low as possible to stop webs and "Drum Skins" forming around the fitting. My proper fitting will be out of brass or alu with flanged male fitting for ease of fittment into the bag. The other alternative is a 1/4 turn type fitting like the Airtech unit.
The right angle fitting worked nicely and didnt have many of the problems associated with a straight fitting. eg. the board is easier to flip under vacuum.
Note, the gasket sits on the outside of the bag and doubles as the template for drawing the hole that needs to be cut from the bag.
I weighed the board and it is 5.5Kg with pads. I am happy with that considering the heavy duty layup, full 3mm stringer and the filled perforated Dcell. Should sit on the water nicely and be as stiff as....
