I just couldn't help myself, I kept looking at the shaped board and I wanted more of a stubby look, so I chopped few cm of the tail and reshaped the tail, I realize this may affect the trim of the board when its travelling along, hopefully a few cm shouldn't matter that much. The new finished length will be 220cm, below pic's show the bit I cut off.
Great job so far.
The stubbier tail will loosen it up, but it may take a bit more to get it up planing.
Top pic is 5mm corecell pre bent with a heat gun to help it wrap around the rails without breaking.
Bottom pic is divinicell mast block, corecell fin block to deck supports, carbon patches, folded up 4 oz glass that goes from nose to tail glass for around mast block, ill mix up about 300 ml of resin wet out the carbon and glass on plastic, tape down the corecell deck and put it in a vacuum bag until the resin goes hard anfd sticks it all down.
Looken good mike! But if you forget how to make boards you can borrow my book.
Note the 'stubby' on the bottom left, it was first shaped in 1982. 
OMG thanks Paul thats Gold a stubby in 1982. Why did we have decades of sail hole making long pointy noses?
I recently purchased a time machine and went foward a few years and took a pic of the 2020 range because there's been a lot of talk about board design on here, there's a few interesting examples there. The needle nose seems to have made a comeback!
You really talk some bull**** sometimes Spock.
(You told me a mate gave you the time machine.)
Select to expand quoteSpocktek said..
I recently purchased a time machine and went foward a few years and took a pic of the 2020 range because there's been a lot of talk about board design on here, there's a few interesting examples there. The needle nose seems to have made a comeback!
Classic photo !
Wonder what year 1981? and is that a Bombora Dromaderry proto far right?
The book was published in 1982. I think the dude shaping the boards is Hoyle Schweitzer??
Col you'd know?
I reckon they've tried everything by the look of some of the customs.
Here's some more....
(Sorry to hijack ya thread mike!)
Hey rider you should put a comp on for the spay design for your board. It looks sick. Keen to see the finished job
Select to expand quotewintortree said...
Hey rider you should put a comp on for the spay design for your board. It looks sick. Keen to see the finished job
Here's my entry...
No worries PJ the hijack helps keep the thread going, 
especially when I haven't been working on the board ( kids and wife had gastro, just waiting for my turn 
)
Thanks wintortree ideally id like to leave it plain black , but our sun and heat would melt and pop it.
Select to expand quoteSpocktek said..wintortree said...
Hey rider you should put a comp on for the spay design for your board. It looks sick. Keen to see the finished job
Here's my entry...
I'll bet they don't look like that now 
Board in the vacuum bag getting the corecell deck sucked on. The board sits in a jig to prevent twist.
Over the years I've repaired many boards and a lot of customs are twisted even seen some twisted productions.
If you want to check your own board for twist this is how
I've used a box knife to cut through corecell and glass for footstrap inserts, marked heal pressure areas for more more reinforcement when I glass the board. You can also see I joined two pieces of core cell to do the deck.
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Looking good R1DER! Can't wait to see the finished product!
Spocktec - love the old magazine posts. Would be awesome to scan it and post the whole thing up before its lost forever, love style of that era :)
Haven't done much lately life's been getting in the way. Pics are of footstrap plugs and vent plug just been resined in.
Whats the logic behind vent plugs? SUPs don't have them anymore and don't explode/warp. Sure they help a little with draining water after a ding before repair, but besides that... I don't get the point.
^^^ maybe all the SUPs exposed to in car / roofracks in summer heat have minor delams due to pressure, but it is not apparent as they are not subject to the same stress (well for 99% of them, and the hardcore users get a new one often anyway) ??
Select to expand quoteozpricey said..
Whats the logic behind vent plugs? SUPs don't have them anymore and don't explode/warp. Sure they help a little with draining water after a ding before repair, but besides that... I don't get the point.
Well I'm a little bit obsessive compulsive with my gear and after all the effort of making a board I want it to last, which is why I put in a vent plug. Here's the theory.
<div>Polystyrene is made by putting little expanded plastic balls into a container then heating them up with steam the balls expand more and stick together (the bond between balls isn't that strong try scratching some bubbles out of a block)
<div>If a board is sealed the foam and air in it expands and contracts from heat and cold. From the coldest part of the day usually around sunrise to the maximum temp of the day will cause say an 11cm thick board to expand from about 2 to 4mm and then contract again as the day gets cooler this happens 365 times a year and so on.
<div>Depending on how much resin was used making the board and how far it seeped into the foam decides how many layers of bubbles are bonded strongly to the inside layer of glass. The next layer down where the resin hasn't reached will eventually pull apart from the next layer of bubbles (delamination) from the daily cycling of expanding and contracting. It may take years to happen it may not, but by putting in a vent it gives the user an option. I leave the vents on my boards open all the time except for when I go sailing.
<div>Stick a sealed board in a car on a 40 degree day and it will delam.
<div>I have seen SUP's delamed, maybe we don't hear about them delaming offen because they are too long to fit in a car and so not many heat up and pop they also don't have the added stress of being jumped or a sail banging up and down.
<div>I also put the vent in the nose as it's the highest place above the water if its accidentally left open.
Edit not sure what the <div> thing in my reply is .... Android/Seabreeze glitch?
Another one joins the tail chop squad ;) funny how many of these I've seen since I hacked off the tail on my old board. They go so well, they practically sail themselves!
Select to expand quoteR1DER said..
Not quite how I do it but interesting to watch.
So much work to make a board hey! More work than necessary though.
Would be better to stick the hard foam on the deck when doing the glass and patch job between the styro and hard foam - much better for de-lams - to do a one step process at this stage recommended...
Made up a new fin jig with new fin tow in angles and canter.
Routed out holes and a dry run to make sure they all line up. Pics not in order just copied and pasted them as a group but not too hard to work out what's what.
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Why are boards so expensive, it only took that guy just over 40 minutes to build that one..
More power to you Rider, that is way more work than I would have imagined. Lots of satisfaction though - looking forward to seeing the finished result and hearing how it rides.
