Hi Guys,
As per subject... what would be the best approach DIY or send it to someone?
Thanks
Send it up to Steve Stratfold in O'Connor) (or similar) and get it done properly...
^^ disagree Chad - nose repair is perfect first timer one as it is not structural, unlike tackling, say, delam near the footstraps where it may later snap clean in half. That is a sand / grind out / laminate / fill sand
pizza p!ss
$30 $50 materials.
Pretty easy repair to learn on, I would take a look at those small cracks while your fixing the big one
Sand paint off with 80 or 120 grit ,
put 3 layers of glass 4 oz is best, with epoxy of coarse west systems is the best and you can buy small bottle and don't wet glass al the way to the edge cut the glass bigger and just wet area with the damage, only need to go about 20mm around the edge of The damage on these nose jobs.
sand glass so it's blended in on the edges, apply car bog over repair, the better the car bog at this point the better the end result will be so don't be a tight ass when buying this.
sand that with 120 then 220 then 320, go to super heap and buy same silver in the small cans and paint it.
Do all the sanding by hand if your not fully confident with a sander.
Once you have sanded heaps, got hell itchy, made a mess of your shed , wasted your spare time. You will ever enjoyed it or realised to could have payed a pro $120 to $150 to do a better job.
But everyone should repair a board at least once to appreciate how much work is involved.
And to stop or minimise future catapult damage I use a nose protector (JP brand), expensive but saved me a broken board for sure.
^^^ how can u be sure there is not damage under the protector?
I'd rather accept some nose damage as part of learning, and spend the nose protector money on stuff to learn to repair boards with. It is not hard, like Jase said above everybody should.
Select to expand quoteP.C_simpson said..
don't wet glass al the way to the edge cut the glass bigger and just wet area with the damage, only need to go about 20mm around the edge of The damage on these nose jobs.
Hey Jase/Mark,
Why don't you wet the glass to the edge? I always find it hard to sand the edge of the glass (when i wet it completely) do be totally flush with the original/surrounding surface - in fact I often seem to sand the original part down faster than the repair! Will not wetting the glass totally help to prevent this?
Thanks!
Yes, lets say you cut a bit of glass and wet out the whole thing then twice more to get 3 layers, this will leave a hard edge of laminated glass, when you are feathering the edge of the glass you will be basically sanding the new 3 layers to blend it to the original glass sanding back and forth over the edge of the new glass, before the edge is feathered out and seamless into the old layers you would have most likely sanded threw the skin of the board and this will have to be repair too..
When the glass is not wet to the edge you don't get that hard edge. so sanding is much easier and feathers seamless without sanding into old skin to aggressively.
Select to expand quoteP.C_simpson said..
Yes, lets say you cut a bit of glass and wet out the whole thing then twice more to get 3 layers, this will leave a hard edge of laminated glass, when you are feathering the edge of the glass you will be basically sanding the new 3 layers to blend it to the original glass sanding back and forth over the edge of the new glass, before the edge is feathered out and seamless into the old layers you would have most likely sanded threw the skin of the board and this will have to be repair too..
When the glass is not wet to the edge you don't get that hard edge. so sanding is much easier and feathers seamless without sanding into old skin to aggressively.
I just try and stagger the layers of glass so the edges never align at the same place.
I also like using an over sized piece of peel ply on top of the glass which I tape down and tension to keep the pressure on the repair.
If you have gone through into the foam and removed any bits of broken foam mix up a little q cell and fill any holes then glass over while its all still wet.
If done well saves quite a bit of sanding and makes for a stronger job, plus is faster.
I learnt all about repairing boards from the one and only world renowned board repairer.
boardlady.com/
Select to expand quoteP.C_simpson said..
Pretty easy repair to learn on, I would take a look at those small cracks while your fixing the big one
Sand paint off with 80 or 120 grit ,
put 3 layers of glass 4 oz is best, with epoxy of coarse west systems is the best and you can buy small bottle and don't wet glass al the way to the edge cut the glass bigger and just wet area with the damage, only need to go about 20mm around the edge of The damage on these nose jobs.
sand glass so it's blended in on the edges, apply car bog over repair, the better the car bog at this point the better the end result will be so don't be a tight ass when buying this.
sand that with 120 then 220 then 320, go to super heap and buy same silver in the small cans and paint it.
Do all the sanding by hand if your not fully confident with a sander.
Once you have sanded heaps, got hell itchy, made a mess of your shed , wasted your spare time. You will ever enjoyed it or realised to could have payed a pro $120 to $150 to do a better job.
But everyone should repair a board at least once to appreciate how much work is involved.
Thanks guys,
Sorry for the late reply I was off in Holidays and I didn't have internet access, I appreciate the input. I guess I will try it to do it myself.
