Technical tips, wheels

starter

It's relatively easy to check the alignment of the rear wheels, you will need some simple tools and at least one mate to help you, preferably two.
TOOLS
Two 5 foot (1500mm) aluminium straight-edges.
A dial indicator that reads in .001" (0.02mm) per division that is mounted on a FIRM base and ajustable for height and angles.
Tyre removal tools of your own choice.
An 8M steel tape.
Suitable packing where needed.
A marker pen.
A plumb bob.
An appropriate ajusting tool.
Icy cold coffee drinks laid on.

1. Remove the two rear tyres and check for slop in the bearings. Ajust to remove the slop if possible or if desired. Drink some icy cold coffee.
2. Set the frame on a FLAT surface and as level as you can make it.
Definitions: The surface of the water in a bath is absolutely LEVEL.
The surface of the mirror on the wall is absolutely FLAT.
Water in the bath is both FLAT and LEVEL (rocket science)
3. Pack the axle so that the wheel hub can spin freely, about 20mm (more or less)ground clearance would be ideal. Drink some more icy cold coffee.
4. Set the dial indicator close to the edge of one hub and rotate 360 degs. Note how much run out is displayed on the dial indicator. Mark the highest (or lowest) spot and position this point at either "12:00" or "6:00" o'clock. The "9:00" and "3:00" o'clock positions will now be exactly at ninety degrees to the axial center line of the axle. Mark the "9:00" and "3:00" positions.
To hold this position, the hub can be lowered onto the ground (concrete where you are working) keeping the marked spot at the required position.
5. Do the same with the other axle/wheel hub. Drink some more icy cold coffee.
6. Get your mate/s to now hold the straight-edge horizontal to the ground and at the center of the wheel. The center of the straight-edge should be located at the center of the wheel so equal amounts of the straight-edge protrude to the front and rear of the wheel.
7. With the straight-edges held firmly, measure the distance across the two straight-edges at both ends.
8. If a variation is displayed by the measurements, decide now if they are acceptable or if an ajustment is needed to bring the two measuments to equal each other. Drink some more icy cold coffee.
9. If an ajustment is needed, apply the appropriate ajusting tool to set the alignment to your desired limits.

The above can be performed with the tyres on the hubs. The problem is if the straight-edges rest on the tyres when making the cruicial measurments. There is no gaurantee that the tyres will run "true" and the results can be very inaccurate. If there are dings in the edge of the hub this damage can also upset the process. Try the technique both ways, ie, with the tyres on and with the tyres removed.

10. We will now check the camber of each hub.
Rotate the hub so the previously marked "9:00" or "3:00" o'clock is now at the "12:00" o'clock position. The hub is again sitting on the ground (concrete)
11. Place a straight-edge on the outside edge of the hub at the "12:00" and 6:00" o'clock position.
12. Hang the plumb bob from the top corner/edge of the straight-edge down to almost touching the ground (concrete again) and measure from the inside of the hub at the bottom, across to the point of the plum bob. Do the same procedure with the other hub and make ajustments if needed with the appropriate ajusting tool. The true angle of camber (tilt inwards) can be worked out very easily with simple trigonometry from the measurements taken. Drink some more icy cold coffee.
13. From a center point at the front of the spine section, measure to a specific point at the rear axle/hub assembly on one side. Note the measurment and check the other side measuring once more to the same corresponding point. This will indicate any error in the centerline alignment. An error here of 20mm may not create any problems unless you are after total perfection in the building of the frame.
14. Now that you are satisfied with all the work and ajustments, settle back with your drink of choice ( or icy cold coffee with icecream if it's me).

Kody

the french 5's and all the standarts at the WC2008 had alignment jigs which were 2 parrellel bars usually angle iron with the point up, set far enough apart for the rear wheels to sit in without moving. A simple frame then sat on the inside of the wheel on top of the parrellel bars and touched two points on the wheel rim. toe in/toe out was adjusted by rotating the relevant axle. This was done virtually every day, sometimes after a race if a bad capsize or big slam down was involved.