Select to expand quotedafish said..
Nice work, but I love your timber board better ;)
yeah I love that board too. However it's too thin to rout boxes into and having the bolt come down from the top makes it a complete pain In the a$$ to take the foil on and off. I didn't want the crude washer bolt system damaging my new expensive foil when it arrives either.
with all the talk that flat boards are crap I decided to try some rocker in this to see what the fuss is all about. The pvc foam was very easy to form to have rocket in it.
Carbon Co Nang 100 Slingshot FSup
not sure how this will go kiting maybe need to have all ten toes hanging over the nose
Select to expand quotehorey69 said..
Carbon Co Nang 100 Slingshot FSup
not sure how this will go kiting maybe need to have all ten toes hanging over the nose
That setup should be awesome for the small swell you guys get up there. I've got the same setup, but haven't really given it a good go in the right conditions, because I always just go for the easy options and use my standard wing.
The front foot pressure actually isn't too bad. The last time I took the 84 out, I actually moved the mast back about a 1.5cm from normal (trying to compensate for the extra lift), but actually found I needed too much back foot pressure. It also holds speed surprisingly well for such a massive wing (over 2000cm2...).
When you take it out it, I would recommend leaving a screwdriver on the beach to let you do quick adjustments on the track position - and take a small kite!
I've actually got a photo of my setup on your board!
Chris,
I will move the mast to position B before I use it. The micro is set up with a carbon set up.
Now we just need wind from the NE or SE. In the meantime it's wing skating for me.
Select to expand quotehorey69 said..
Chris,
I will move the mast to position B before I use it. The micro is set up with a carbon set up.
Now we just need wind from the NE or SE. In the meantime it's wing skating for me.
I haven't tried it on B yet (only on A). B is supposed to be better for pumping, so I'm keen to give that a go as well. I just wasn't sure how much it would affect front foot pressure.
Next NE/SE I'll come up there and give it a go.
Select to expand quoteJonesey32 said..horey69 said..
Carbon Co Nang 100 Slingshot FSup
not sure how this will go kiting maybe need to have all ten toes hanging over the nose
That setup should be awesome for the small swell you guys get up there. I've got the same setup, but haven't really given it a good go in the right conditions, because I always just go for the easy options and use my standard wing.
The front foot pressure actually isn't too bad. The last time I took the 84 out, I actually moved the mast back about a 1.5cm from normal (trying to compensate for the extra lift), but actually found I needed too much back foot pressure. It also holds speed surprisingly well for such a massive wing (over 2000cm2...).
When you take it out it, I would recommend leaving a screwdriver on the beach to let you do quick adjustments on the track position - and take a small kite!
I've actually got a photo of my setup on your board!
I use the slingshot 76 foil with a 100cm board (kite) and have it in A position and love it. I thought the rear wing should be facing up though?
Select to expand quoteBrohan said..Jonesey32 said..horey69 said..
Carbon Co Nang 100 Slingshot FSup
not sure how this will go kiting maybe need to have all ten toes hanging over the nose
That setup should be awesome for the small swell you guys get up there. I've got the same setup, but haven't really given it a good go in the right conditions, because I always just go for the easy options and use my standard wing.
The front foot pressure actually isn't too bad. The last time I took the 84 out, I actually moved the mast back about a 1.5cm from normal (trying to compensate for the extra lift), but actually found I needed too much back foot pressure. It also holds speed surprisingly well for such a massive wing (over 2000cm2...).
When you take it out it, I would recommend leaving a screwdriver on the beach to let you do quick adjustments on the track position - and take a small kite!
I've actually got a photo of my setup on your board!
I use the slingshot 76 foil with a 100cm board (kite) and have it in A position and love it. I thought the rear wing should be facing up though?
That is the 48cm rear wing, it's designed to go on the bottom and face down.
The 42cm one is designed to go on the top and face up.
Select to expand quotewarwickl said..
I just use an old skim board for kite foiling that is low volume and was very cheap.
A friend made a board out of ply from Bunnings.
We are just every day guys so that may explain it.
But why spend big $ on a board when spending on the foil is way more beneficial?
Interested to know how you went with a skimboard, I have a 100cm bean shaped I'm thinking of building in foil mounts, which look too easy to be true on a ply board.
Only issue (aside from small size for a beginner) is lack of rocker.
Select to expand quotePeahi said..warwickl said..
I just use an old skim board for kite foiling that is low volume and was very cheap.
A friend made a board out of ply from Bunnings.
We are just every day guys so that may explain it.
But why spend big $ on a board when spending on the foil is way more beneficial?
Interested to know how you went with a skimboard, I have a 100cm bean shaped I'm thinking of building in foil mounts, which look too easy to be true on a ply board.
Only issue (aside from small size for a beginner) is lack of rocker.
Pictures are when I first set it up, I now have Moses foils.
My board has wood core which is ok for drilling however I use very big washers plus later made an aluminium plate to spread the load.
Now use a foot hook which is way better than a strap as it provides the benefits of a strap and freedom of strapless.
Works perfectly with no issues.
Select to expand quotewarwickl said..Peahi said..warwickl said..
I just use an old skim board for kite foiling that is low volume and was very cheap.
A friend made a board out of ply from Bunnings.
We are just every day guys so that may explain it.
But why spend big $ on a board when spending on the foil is way more beneficial?
Interested to know how you went with a skimboard, I have a 100cm bean shaped I'm thinking of building in foil mounts, which look too easy to be true on a ply board.
Only issue (aside from small size for a beginner) is lack of rocker.
Pictures are when I first set it up, I now have Moses foils.
My board has wood core which is ok for drilling however I use very big washers plus later made an aluminium plate to spread the load.
Now use a foot hook which is way better than a strap as it provides the benefits of a strap and freedom of strapless.
Works perfectly with no issues.
Cheers Warwick. I would have thought the foil might go further back, what is ideal placement on a 100cm board?
Just finished some new creations 2x 95cm RAW stubby one with exposed cork and the other with the standard traction pad on deck.
And the RAW peanut 
....
Let me know if you are interested...
Pilz 0434016147
Your boards are looking awesome there Pilz 
I had a go at making one too. 80cm, 1.65kgs inc grip & rear entry tracks. Pretty happy for a first effort. Had a mountain of help from a very skilled mate.
Rides great and super carvy with no swing weight, great for swell.
Select to expand quoteKBGhost said..
Couple more 
Your board looks great good effort for first build, like the shape of it..
Select to expand quotePeahi said..warwickl said..Peahi said..warwickl said..
I just use an old skim board for kite foiling that is low volume and was very cheap.
A friend made a board out of ply from Bunnings.
We are just every day guys so that may explain it.
But why spend big $ on a board when spending on the foil is way more beneficial?
Interested to know how you went with a skimboard, I have a 100cm bean shaped I'm thinking of building in foil mounts, which look too easy to be true on a ply board.
Only issue (aside from small size for a beginner) is lack of rocker.
Pictures are when I first set it up, I now have Moses foils.
My board has wood core which is ok for drilling however I use very big washers plus later made an aluminium plate to spread the load.
Now use a foot hook which is way better than a strap as it provides the benefits of a strap and freedom of strapless.
Works perfectly with no issues.
Cheers Warwick. I would have thought the foil might go further back, what is ideal placement on a 100cm board?
I have a board 110cm from Pilz, pic attached.
With my Moses foils I have the mast at the back of the track.
Ok, seems like most foils I see are mounted about one bracket in from the back.
That peanut one above looks almost in the middle.... is that better for a heavier back foot?
Slingshot smallest foil board....Dwarf Craft 100cm or 3'3" next to it the 3'6" Micro Dwarf Craft. Three sessions on the 100 and loving it killer grip, it's like part of my body.
Select to expand quotederek72 said..
Am loving the ideas in this thread, lots of great ideas and innovation and interesting board builds. I am time poor so I bit the bullet and bought a carbon co nang 100 and spoke with Mitchell on the phone about adding some beef to the nose and some more rocker, will post pics when I get the board. I also have an old wakeskate that I have punched four holes in and flattened off a section for the foil plate, I did this when I started to learn foiling earlier this year but could not get up on the north foil I had with it. Now I'm on a 633 (and i can foil now) I might have another go of that board, will see how it goes. Also I have a mate who has bought a wooden flat board - I think from South Africa, he reckons it rides great, also his mate built a tiny carbon board which he uses for lake riding in Europe somewhere, bot interesting looking boards, pics below. I am still keen to buy some bunnings XPS and have a go at bending it and glassing/carbon cloth and see how it goes, just a matter of finding time.
Don't log in here often but was surprised to see my first ever pocket foil board build in the thread. The carbon one 3rd picture down.
Build went as follows;
Found insulation foam on Swiss building site, relocated 1 block for testing purposes.
Made stencil form using balsa wood.
Pinned stencil to foam and cut out.
Wrapped in biaxial carbon first the another layer of normal carbon.
No vacuum.
Tooooo much epoxy.
Zero board making skills or knowledge.
Turned out the board had pin holes all through it and filled with water. Eventually got cut up to remove the mounting boxes. Those boxes were then put in an old shortened sup board to be used for wind winging.
The following photos are of my 3rd and 4th board (second board ended up in Germany I think).
Build went as follows;
Green EPS closed cell foam from carbon composites UK.
Cut with a Stanley knife.
Layered and epoxy glued.
Layed on a wood form for rocker and concave/convex.
Placed on a table whilst layered glue was still wet, vacuumed to desired shape.
Sanded and shaped.
Biaxial carbon vacuumed base.
Sanded shaped.
Normal carbon vacuumed.
Sanded and shaped.
Then repeated on top/deck.
Once complete I sanded the base to a mirror finish, 1200, 3000, then buffed.
Deck was left with peel ply finish for grip.
I didn't use vacuum bags but a large piece of latex double sided taped to a metal frame, C clamped to a table. Thus making it reusable. The vacuum table system belongs to a Longboard skateboard building business here in Zurich. (Fibretec.ch) if you're in West Aust. You can see their board builds at "livid skate cafe" in Scarborough.
Board with tracks 1.9 kg
Board with nut inserts (snowboard binding inserts) 1.3kg
I add a NSI stick on loop to attach a small yellow float cut from pool noodle just to make seeing the dark board easier.
They float well with my GONG Allvator and Project Cedrus foils.
Boards are now 3 years old and showing signs of wear but no issues.
Anyone ride a Axis Tray 94 and an Armstrong 311? Curious as to the difference in rigidity and recovery after touchdowns. Thoughts? Leaning Axis Tray due to costs but the 8 layers of carbon in the Armstrong and its unique (albeit longer) shape look nice.
Anyone ride a Axis Tray 94 and an Armstrong 311? Curious as to the difference in rigidity and recovery after touchdowns. Thoughts? Leaning Axis Tray due to costs but the 8 layers of carbon in the Armstrong and its unique (albeit longer) shape look nice.
Select to expand quoteRaleigh said..
Anyone ride a Axis Tray 94 and an Armstrong 311? Curious as to the difference in rigidity and recovery after touchdowns. Thoughts? Leaning Axis Tray due to costs but the 8 layers of carbon in the Armstrong and its unique (albeit longer) shape look nice.
This looks similar: axisfoils.com/collections/all-boards/products/foam-31-foilboard
Bottom shape is more complex on the Armstrong, might be more suited to the surf foilers...
Tray is quite wide at the front, I had a 110 for a month and was surprised how forgiving it was -- so long as you didn't bury the nose. I've got a prototype board from Axis that looks a lot like the Foam 3'10 and it's pretty good for kiting, especially light wind, but you notice the extra weight...
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..Raleigh said..
Anyone ride a Axis Tray 94 and an Armstrong 311? Curious as to the difference in rigidity and recovery after touchdowns. Thoughts? Leaning Axis Tray due to costs but the 8 layers of carbon in the Armstrong and its unique (albeit longer) shape look nice.
This looks similar: axisfoils.com/collections/all-boards/products/foam-31-foilboard
Bottom shape is more complex on the Armstrong, might be more suited to the surf foilers...
Tray is quite wide at the front, I had a 110 for a month and was surprised how forgiving it was -- so long as you didn't bury the nose. I've got a prototype board from Axis that looks a lot like the Foam 3'10 and it's pretty good for kiting, especially light wind, but you notice the extra weight...
What do people rekn about bottom shape versus rocker- for example, can having a vee bottom make up for less rocker? I'm thinking especially in terms of build simplicity with wood it could be easier to add material on the bottom at the nose to make some vee rather than bending or layering up to focus on getting 10cm of nose rocker. Also bonus that you could add rocker from any added material on the bottom to add to the nose lift.
Select to expand quoteSamuellae said..Kamikuza said..Raleigh said..
Anyone ride a Axis Tray 94 and an Armstrong 311? Curious as to the difference in rigidity and recovery after touchdowns. Thoughts? Leaning Axis Tray due to costs but the 8 layers of carbon in the Armstrong and its unique (albeit longer) shape look nice.
This looks similar: axisfoils.com/collections/all-boards/products/foam-31-foilboard
Bottom shape is more complex on the Armstrong, might be more suited to the surf foilers...
Tray is quite wide at the front, I had a 110 for a month and was surprised how forgiving it was -- so long as you didn't bury the nose. I've got a prototype board from Axis that looks a lot like the Foam 3'10 and it's pretty good for kiting, especially light wind, but you notice the extra weight...
What do people rekn about bottom shape versus rocker- for example, can having a vee bottom make up for less rocker? I'm thinking especially in terms of build simplicity with wood it could be easier to add material on the bottom at the nose to make some vee rather than bending or layering up to focus on getting 10cm of nose rocker. Also bonus that you could add rocker from any added material on the bottom to add to the nose lift.
When you breach the foil, the board will drop at a steep angle. Front scoop will allow the board to recover without burying the nose. No matter how much V is added, without the scoop the nose will bury and your off. I ride a flat 110 will lots of scoop, works great.
What airsail said.
Plus IMO the V use only any use when the board is on the surface, for the same reason you'd have a V in a surfboard. Unnecessary in a kite foilboard.
Hi Dafish and anyone else making Paulownia boards. Responding to a post you wrote ages ago where you made a paulownia board that was too thin. How thick do you think they need to be? What surface coating did you apply: fiberglass/epoxy? Epoxy only? Thanks
Select to expand quoteJimm said..
Hi Dafish and anyone else making Paulownia boards. Responding to a post you wrote ages ago where you made a paulownia board that was too thin. How thick do you think they need to be? What surface coating did you apply: fiberglass/epoxy? Epoxy only? Thanks
19mm is a good thickness (and the thickness of the alaia blanks that I use). My most recent got a full layer of 4oz S glass top and bottom with staggered layers of unidirectionsl carbon at and forwards of the mount top and bottom (150-180mm wide). Super stiff.
Previous board had one layer of 6oz E glass all over and a patch of the same covering the mount and 200mm in front of it. It was strong enough, and has lasted hundreds of sessions, but I could feel it flex.
Bote Cote is my favourite resin - used it on three boards now and am well impressed with its usability, strength and low odour levels.
