flexofold.com/folding-propellers/7-saildrive-propellers/19-2-blade-saildrive-composite-folding-propeller/
They gave me a price of $1750 factory direct and delivered. Would be nice to hear from someone who has used this composite prop for a while.
I've had a 3 blade Flexifold on a saildrive for many years and it's been great.
No noticeable change in motoring performance in forward or reverse over the fixed prop.
Signifcant improvement in boat speed under sail.
Flexifold seem to provide a quality product so I assume the composite hub would have been well tested before release.
You wouldn't consider a 3 blade prop?
It may perform better in rough conditions than the 2 blade.
Select to expand quoteseabird said..
I've had a 3 blade Flexifold on a saildrive for many years and it's been great.
No noticeable change in motoring performance in forward or reverse over the fixed prop.
Signifcant improvement in boat speed under sail.
Flexifold seem to provide a quality product so I assume the composite hub would have been well tested before release.
You wouldn't consider a 3 blade prop?
It may perform better in rough conditions than the 2 blade.
Hi Seabird, thanks for that. Yeah they seem to be one of the best brands out there.
They quoted me $2300 for the 3 blade: flexofold.com/folding-propellers/7-saildrive-propellers/14-3-blade-saildrive-folding-propeller/
Hi Dex, did you end up buying the Flexofold 2 blade composite? Or were you able to get any first hand info?
Select to expand quote2bish said..
Hi Dex, did you end up buying the Flexofold 2 blade composite? Or were you able to get any first hand info?
Hey, nah still didn't commit to one but its getting close now. I've been talking with them, I'll let you know which one I go for
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I have heard great things about the kiwi prop has plastic blades i think.
My only experience with Kiwi props is a mate with an S&S34 has one and finds it noisy and fails to deliver boat speed. He reengined the boat and fitted the Kiwi based on the Kiwi people's advice. I have experienced it and it does thrash around. That the blades on his prop have no washout towards the tips does indicate that thrust will be reduced and cavitation at the tips increased.
This isn't a definitive example of Kiwi props being no good, it could have been a mismatch of engine, prop, hull. But it invites a note of caution when considering one.
Select to expand quoteMorningBird said..southace said..
I have heard great things about the kiwi prop has plastic blades i think.
My only experience with Kiwi props is a mate with an S&S34 has one and finds it noisy and fails to deliver boat speed. He reengined the boat and fitted the Kiwi based on the Kiwi people's advice. I have experienced it and it does thrash around. That the blades on his prop have no washout towards the tips does indicate that thrust will be reduced and cavitation at the tips increased.
This isn't a definitive example of Kiwi props being no good, it could have been a mismatch of engine, prop, hull. But it invites a note of caution when considering one.
Again, second hand Kiwi Prop info. A mate had one. Blamed poor performance on old engine. Replaced engine with new bigger Yanmar. Same issue.
Fitted new prop {Volvo}. All good.
My last four boats have had 3 bladed folding props. 1 Volvo & 3 Flex O Fold.
I would not hesitate to fit the Flex O Fold to any future yacht.
Select to expand quoteSailMark said..MorningBird said..southace said..
I have heard great things about the kiwi prop has plastic blades i think.
My only experience with Kiwi props is a mate with an S&S34 has one and finds it noisy and fails to deliver boat speed. He reengined the boat and fitted the Kiwi based on the Kiwi people's advice. I have experienced it and it does thrash around. That the blades on his prop have no washout towards the tips does indicate that thrust will be reduced and cavitation at the tips increased.
This isn't a definitive example of Kiwi props being no good, it could have been a mismatch of engine, prop, hull. But it invites a note of caution when considering one.
Again, second hand Kiwi Prop info. A mate had one. Blamed poor performance on old engine. Replaced engine with new bigger Yanmar. Same issue.
Fitted new prop {Volvo}. All good.
My last four boats have had 3 bladed folding props. 1 Volvo & 3 Flex O Fold.
I would not hesitate to fit the Flex O Fold to any future yacht.
Good to hear the Flexofold recommendation. Do you know anyone with a two blade model?
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I have heard great things about the kiwi prop has plastic blades i think.
The Kiwi prop can't change pitch in reverse, even in idle you charge off backwards out of control. I wouldn't buy another one.
I have a kiwi prop, on a sail drive/3GM30. Put it on after loosing a 2 bladed folding prop. No difference in sailing speed, no vibrations, huge improvement in reverse. I back into my pen, no problems in most wind conditions. When reversing speed gets a bit high, put the motor in neutral for a bit.
I've got a 2 blade flexo fold. Running with a D1-30 on a 37 Bav
FF advised me toward the 2 blade version for less drag under sail, possible best flat water speed under engine and only slightly less grip for bashing through heavy swell. I had a three blade Volvo before and I have not noticed any loss in pushing through swell, maybe a little less prop walk in astern. Overall the make a nice solid prop I think.
cheers Richard
Select to expand quoteStockie said..
I've got a 2 blade flexo fold. Running with a D1-30 on a 37 Bav
FF advised me toward the 2 blade version for less drag under sail, possible best flat water speed under engine and only slightly less grip for bashing through heavy swell. I had a three blade Volvo before and I have not noticed any loss in pushing through swell, maybe a little less prop walk in astern. Overall the make a nice solid prop I think.
cheers Richard
Ah good one Richard! I have the same engine in a similar sized boat, so it's good to know that you're happy with the performance. I'm assuming your's is the "classic" metal model and not the composite hub version?
Well good to hear some favourable comments about Flex-o-fold props in general although no-one seems to have any first hand knowledge of the composite model. The factory have told me that they supply this composite prop as standard to shipyards Elan Yachts and Saffier Yachts.
2 bish and Dexport,
my Flex fold is the all bronze model, I think it could be an old model, as the current bronze ones show a small round anode in the hub. Mine is sans this. I think it is fair to sat FF make good gear, the composite obviously they see as an improvement, so should be a good product and price competitive. The equivalent 3 blade VP is nearer 3k in Australia.
Richard
2 bish and Dexport,
my Flex fold is the all bronze model, I think it could be an old model, as the current bronze ones show a small round anode in the hub. Mine is sans this. I think it is fair to sat FF make good gear, the composite obviously they see as an improvement, so should be a good product and price competitive. The equivalent 3 blade VP is nearer 3k in Australia.
Richard
Received my new Flex-o-fold prop today. Looks pretty nice and seems to have a top build quality. No play and really smooth movements of the blades. Excited to mount it and take it out for a whirl. I think I will see some performance gains over my old prop. Its a lot lighter and the shape of the blades are very different. The old blades were basically 2 straight bits of metal.
Only 3 weeks till I get back to the boat for next seasons adventures.
One thing that still puzzles me though is why my old prop fell off in the first place. Anyone have it happen to them?
Schiehallion was launched in 2005 with this prop and it suddenly falls off 2 weeks after I buy the boat? Too much of a coincedence for me.
There is only one thing that I can think of that could have made it happen. Keep in mind, this is the first boat I've sailed with a folding prop. I was told to put the gearbox in reverse while sailing in order to close/fold the blades.
Twice it happened that after sailing for a couple of hours I came to a point when I wanted to get the motor going and forgot to put it back into neutral. So the engine started and went straight to full revs in reverse. Now this is obviously a stupid thing to do. My thinking is that this might have just basically undid the threads of the locking nut.
The guy from Flex-o-fold thinks not but I can't think of anything else.
Anyhow, I will be seeing if I can install a sensor on the gearshift so that the motor won't start unless in neutral.
Thanks for any input
>Vernon
Just put the gearbox in neutral before you shut down the diesel. That prop will fold easily with a bit of forward speed.
My folding prop does not always fold flat when in neutral, i generally need to put it into reverse to stop the prop spinning, but I think it has more to do with how much gunk has built up on the prop. I have started mine in reverse (accidently) quite a few times over the last 7 years and the prop is still there.
The switch for neutral sounds like a good idea, but i suspect in a couple of years the switch will start playing up with corrosion and you wont be able to start. Better option may be to drill the propeller shaft and put a split pin on the locking nut.
Select to expand quoteDexport said..
Received my new Flex-o-fold prop today. Looks pretty nice and seems to have a top build quality. No play and really smooth movements of the blades. Excited to mount it and take it out for a whirl. I think I will see some performance gains over my old prop. Its a lot lighter and the shape of the blades are very different. The old blades were basically 2 straight bits of metal.
Only 3 weeks till I get back to the boat for next seasons adventures.
My brother had exactly the same thing happen to him. Re the prop falling off just after having bought his boat.
+1 for sometimes having to put in reverse to stop prop spinning (seahawk slipstream 3blade folding)
Dexport - Been there, done that.
On the Sydney 38 that I race on we have inadvertently started the motor with the throttle control in full speed reverse position (in our defence we had dropped sails after a race and suddenly realised we were in the path of later finishing boats) and the unloaded engine instantly revved until presumably centrifugal force took over on the folding prop and it grabbed traction at full speed - and promptly unscrewed from the shaft shearing the cotter pin - and the whole lot (prop and bolt) disappeared just in time for someone to grab the throttle lever.
The slipyard guy reckons it happens all the time.
We are very careful now with starting to ensure that the prop folds back out before giving it any serious revs.
Select to expand quoteEC31 said..
My folding prop does not always fold flat when in neutral, i generally need to put it into reverse to stop the prop spinning, but I think it has more to do with how much gunk has built up on the prop. I have started mine in reverse (accidently) quite a few times over the last 7 years and the prop is still there.
The switch for neutral sounds like a good idea, but i suspect in a couple of years the switch will start playing up with corrosion and you wont be able to start. Better option may be to drill the propeller shaft and put a split pin on the locking nut.
haha, good to know others made the same mistakes.
Select to expand quoteIcepick said..
Dexport - Been there, done that.
On the Sydney 38 that I race on we have inadvertently started the motor with the throttle control in full speed reverse position (in our defence we had dropped sails after a race and suddenly realised we were in the path of later finishing boats) and the unloaded engine instantly revved until presumably centrifugal force took over on the folding prop and it grabbed traction at full speed - and promptly unscrewed from the shaft shearing the cotter pin - and the whole lot (prop and bolt) disappeared just in time for someone to grab the throttle lever.
The slipyard guy reckons it happens all the time.
We are very careful now with starting to ensure that the prop folds back out before giving it any serious revs.
Well I know your feelings then. I don't know the exact moment mine fell off. I motored out of the marina no problem, then sailed for 2 hours and it was only when I dropped the sails in a narrow channel and wanted to use the motor to get to an anchoring spot that I realised there was no prop.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Just put the gearbox in neutral before you shut down the diesel. That prop will fold easily with a bit of forward speed.
So if I stop the engine, put the gearbox in reverse for a few seconds the prop should then be closed and I could put it back in neutral. The prop won't then open again as long as I've got some forward movement. Then when I go to start up next time I won't have to think about it. That sound right?
I don't put my boat in reverse unless I want to motor in reverse. I just put the gearbox in neutral when I sail and the blade folds, takes very little pressure to push those blades down.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
I don't put my boat in reverse unless I want to motor in reverse. I just put the gearbox in neutral when I sail and the blade folds, takes very little pressure to push those blades down.
Ok good to know. How do you know for sure that the blades are folded then? I'm guessing you would feel some cavitation through the helm if they were still open?
Thanks for all the help anyway, I'm sure I'll figure it out, just don't want to loose another prop.
Hi Dexport,
A lot folding props will auto rotate and not close if you just come back to neutral including my Flexofold 3 blade. To stop this the prop needs to be bought to the stoped position even if only momentary. Most people achieve this by selecting reverse after shutdown which is fine if you have a mechanical gearbox that uses engine compression to lock the shaft.
In my case I have a hydraulic gearbox which will not lock the shaft when the motor is not running. For me to stop my shaft auto rotating I need to have the boat going forward with a bit of pace then put the boat in reverse and shutdown while in reverse. Buy doing this the prop must come to a stand still at some point before it starts to try and auto rotate as you are still traveling in a forward direction (complicated)
You can usually tell if the prop is open as you will feel it on the rudder and generally hear and feel a rumble unless it is really light air and in that case you can use the same method as I have to use.
