I. Am about to line the cabin roof and wanted some advise on what wood to use as roof stringers I'll be fibreglassing or epoxy
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
I. Am about to line the cabin roof and wanted some advise on what wood to use as roof stringers I'll be fibreglassing or epoxy
Will the timber need to any load bearing? If yes then you need something with a bit strength, in your part of the world Mountain Ash or Tassie Oak if not load bearing then something nice and light, Cedar, Douglas Fir or even Paulonia.
fibreglassing or epoxy ... I don't understand what you are saying, because if you are just substituting epoxy resin for another type of resin, it's still "fibreglassing" and if you are fibreglassing over these stringers then you will have to use epoxy as neither polyester or vinylester will adhere to wood with any degree of strength.
i assume stringers are to take the screws and or joints for lining boards ply what ever i would use something lite and cheap say treated pine it will take a course threaded screw well
Select to expand quoteLooseChange said..HG02 said..
I. Am about to line the cabin roof and wanted some advise on what wood to use as roof stringers I'll be fibreglassing or epoxy
Will the timber need to any load bearing? If yes then you need something with a bit strength, in your part of the world Mountain Ash or Tassie Oak if not load bearing then something nice and light, Cedar, Douglas Fir or even Paulonia.
fibreglassing or epoxy ... I don't understand what you are saying, because if you are just substituting epoxy resin for another type of resin, it's still "fibreglassing" and if you are fibreglassing over these stringers then you will have to use epoxy as neither polyester or vinylester will adhere to wood with any degree of strength.
I am lining the cabin fiberglass roof with western red cedar V joint 85 wide x 10 mm thick
You would get better stiffness and integrity using ply wood rather than using planks and a neater looking finish.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..LooseChange said..HG02 said..
I. Am about to line the cabin roof and wanted some advise on what wood to use as roof stringers I'll be fibreglassing or epoxy
Will the timber need to any load bearing? If yes then you need something with a bit strength, in your part of the world Mountain Ash or Tassie Oak if not load bearing then something nice and light, Cedar, Douglas Fir or even Paulonia.
fibreglassing or epoxy ... I don't understand what you are saying, because if you are just substituting epoxy resin for another type of resin, it's still "fibreglassing" and if you are fibreglassing over these stringers then you will have to use epoxy as neither polyester or vinylester will adhere to wood with any degree of strength.
I am lining the cabin fiberglass roof with western red cedar V joint 85 wide x 10 mm thick
curving both ways ? if so will be a struggle !!!!!
Select to expand quoteSandS said..HG02 said..LooseChange said..HG02 said..
I. Am about to line the cabin roof and wanted some advise on what wood to use as roof stringers I'll be fibreglassing or epoxy
Will the timber need to any load bearing? If yes then you need something with a bit strength, in your part of the world Mountain Ash or Tassie Oak if not load bearing then something nice and light, Cedar, Douglas Fir or even Paulonia.
fibreglassing or epoxy ... I don't understand what you are saying, because if you are just substituting epoxy resin for another type of resin, it's still "fibreglassing" and if you are fibreglassing over these stringers then you will have to use epoxy as neither polyester or vinylester will adhere to wood with any degree of strength.
I am lining the cabin fiberglass roof with western red cedar V joint 85 wide x 10 mm thick
curving both ways ? if so will be a struggle !!!!!
No its really only curved port to starboard Im running the cedar from the stern to the forward cabin
Each board/s would have to be firmly clamped until epoxy cures. If thats what you mean.
Id start from the sides and then custom fit the middle board/s. Maybe?
My roof is a half inch plywood sandwich, so much easier if you could screw each board on.
how about you tell us you ideas on how you are going about this hg seems to be a bit of confusion 
If you put up battens then 1/2 inch planks is this going to give enough headroom. Some of your guests may be taller! Friend of mine years ago built a Swanson 42 from the moulds and installed a timber deck. He was short and the deck beams caught me about mid forehead!
Select to expand quoteRamona said...
If you put up battens then 1/2 inch planks is this going to give enough headroom. Some of your guests may be taller! Friend of mine years ago built a Swanson 42 from the moulds and installed a timber deck. He was short and the deck beams caught me about mid forehead!
I'll take that into my build thanks Ramona
Bunnings have a acrylic sheet have been thinking of a 300cm wide
Strip down the middle then the western red cedar either side apply the sheet directly to the cabin roof maybe with sikaflex to break it up. And also to give
Good height while walking through the cabin
Maybe .500cm Wide
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
If you put up battens then 1/2 inch planks is this going to give enough headroom. Some of your guests may be taller! Friend of mine years ago built a Swanson 42 from the moulds and installed a timber deck. He was short and the deck beams caught me about mid forehead!
Murray never thought he was short .... at least not till you told him .... 
Lamipanel is good for boat interiors with cedar battens is good to use to screw into and you use mega proxy to glue it or liquid nails
Select to expand quoteLooseChange said..Ramona said..
If you put up battens then 1/2 inch planks is this going to give enough headroom. Some of your guests may be taller! Friend of mine years ago built a Swanson 42 from the moulds and installed a timber deck. He was short and the deck beams caught me about mid forehead!
Murray never thought he was short .... at least not till you told him ....
That's right, and his mate Bruce was the same height. Probably not thinking resale at the time.
Looking at the picture of the ceiling in question seems to be an easy enough job to roughly sand then screed it with fairing compound, sand to a smooth finish and finally paint with high gloss paint ... job done. No loss of interior height, easy to maintain and keep clean and as bright as daylight. Why make the inside look like a dark hole?
Select to expand quoteLooseChange said..
an easy enough job to roughly sand then screed it with fairing compound, sand to a smooth finish and finally paint with high gloss paint ...
(chuckle chuckle) ... I've tackled those "sanding, fairing, sanding and painting" little two-hour jobs before; and two weekends later I'm still sanding and filling little divots. Maybe I should just have used matt paint.
Still, Loosechange's is a good idea. Only caveat would be to keep in mind that GRP boats flex quite a bit in heavy seas, and you'd want to keep the fairing layer thin enough so it doesn't crack on you.
Talking about fairing compounds - has anyone here used a fairing or filling compound that can flex instead of being brittle?
my two bobs worth , i would go lami panel direct stick . then at least when decide to add a item to the cabin top you can bolt straight through . nothing worse than a double skin ceiling imo .....................................
Mine's lined with spongy foam underlayed suede vinyl with teak battens..
Condensations a big problem in our climate, all the gelcoated areas, windows and hatches drip like rainforests..
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
my two bobs worth , i would go lami panel direct stick . then at least when decide to add a item to the cabin top you can bolt straight through . nothing worse than a double skin ceiling imo .....................................
I am doing lami panel if I can find it down in Melbourne either 600 wide the same as the hatch opening or one meter that the rest with the cedar. As Ive blown my port light money on this little adventure Ill remover the old original port light and re glaze and reseal them and trim the cabin sides with cedar as well them as adding the white lami panel to the roof gives me a lot more cedar left over
i would do it all the same a strip down the middle hardly gains anything and will look like a runway
I'm with LooseChange except I would glue cedar battens across the deckhead and one down the centre to simulate deckbeams. I would rather see bolts than have them hidden.
My deckhead is brown cork on thin panels. I would prefer white paint.
Pyramid Paints sell a textured, semi gloss 2 pack marine grade white paint that hides a multitudes of sins and looks quite nice. Just prep the surface and roll or spray it on, job done.
Select to expand quote
Karsten said..LooseChange said..
an easy enough job to roughly sand then screed it with fairing compound, sand to a smooth finish and finally paint with high gloss paint ...
(chuckle chuckle) ... I've tackled those "sanding, fairing, sanding and painting" little two-hour jobs before; and two weekends later I'm still sanding and filling little divots. Maybe I should just have used matt paint.
Still, Loosechange's is a good idea. Only caveat would be to keep in mind that GRP boats flex quite a bit in heavy seas, and you'd want to keep the fairing layer thin enough so it doesn't crack on you.
Talking about fairing compounds - has anyone here used a fairing or filling compound that can flex instead of being brittle?
Karsten-I have used Norflex by Norglass and seems to be good in terms of flex.
Sorry Guys-For some reason the previous post went out before I got to explain the flagpole and filler thing.
Anyway this was an old timber pole with topmast and yardarm out of Oregon timber.After 40 years it was well weathered and the Cockatoos had got into it as well.
All the cracks,holes and divots were filled with the Norflex,which worked a treat and is easy to sand with no porosity. Given this thing moves around a lot with temperature changes and flexes in the wind there have been no problems thus far.
HG, on your interior deck lining, why not direct stick the new composite aluminium sheeting as a finish. About $90.00 per sheet from Mister ply+Wood or other outlets.It can be also purchased in marine grade ally and forms curves real well and you'll only lose 4mm in interior height.
Regards CR
www.forest1.com/info/wallart/
Bunnings sell this item with or with or a tile pattern
I chose a snow white the panel is 2400 x 1200 so two panels will cover the roof its much the same as lami panel
use a adhesive on the back and prop it up till its cured
Bunnings call it Wet area paneling " Linear series wet area paneling"
Hi HG
Are you going to do it in two pieces with a join in the centre or can you do it in one piece
Are you going to run the cedar up to the top on the vertical sections that the windows mount in or will you sheet this section as well
Also will you sheet the front section of the cabin where the deck steps down
Do you think that condensation in cold climates will be a issue
The product looks good and I will be interested to see the finished product
Regards Don
Select to expand quote
Donk107 said..
Hi HG
Are you going to do it in two pieces with a join in the centre or can you do it in one piece
Are you going to run the cedar up to the top on the vertical sections that the windows mount in or will you sheet this section as well
Also will you sheet the front section of the cabin where the deck steps down
Do you think that condensation in cold climates will be a issue
The product looks good and I will be interested to see the finished product
Regards Don
Condensation Id say most boats will suffer from this down south . I have to do some thing the carpet is not in good condition .
Tomorrow after work Ill drop into the boat and measure it up . if I buy two panels Id have the option of either a panel either side of the center line or
alternatively center one panel so 600 cm on each side of the center line and then utilize another panel cut in two one either of the center panel cut down to suit the balance both sides and trim with timber along the joins . I think this would be my best choice giving me a clear span.
Bunnings have a reasonable amount of stock so I could in the first instance fit one panel in the center on Saturday and let it set over night and on Sunday measure up the other two panels to be cut see what the appearance looks like and go from there .
As far as the where the deck steps down Ill see after fitting the panels as to what I use based on the interiors brightness and appeal from the first panel after its in place. Ill post a photo saturday night when I get home and face the Seabreeze Music 
.
I think I will start the the center panel just behind the cabin step down at the front. This will make it a little easier to trim the variation from the center to the edges of the deck step and I can trim with timber and then make two side panels for the sides of the cabin step down. The rear of the center pane lgoes further than the hatch opening at the rear of the cabin and Ill have to trim around the hatch area where the panel fits.
All this might turn to crap if the hatch wont allow me the 1200 width to get the panel down below
Ill be measure that tomorrow after work thats for sure.
I will be making allowances for cockpit halyards just in case I ever want them later at the front bulk head sides and also either side of the hatch ( screw down panels)
Many thanks for your input Donk
Maybe as the width is 2 meters wide on the cabin roof two panels cut at 1 meter and joined and trimmed in the middle might work also .
Ill measure after work tomorrow and sort it out
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
Pyramid Paints sell a textured, semi gloss 2 pack marine grade white paint that hides a multitudes of sins and looks quite nice. Just prep the surface and roll or spray it on, job done.
That is what I would be doing. So simple and easy with a great result.
dont forget u need to get the sheet in there it may be too big in one piece this may influence how you do it
Select to expand quoteaus005 said..
dont forget u need to get the sheet in there it may be too big in one piece this may influence how you do it
i would sheet it port to starboard using the flex of the sheet to help it stick to the roof.
if you sheet from bow to stern it is a tighter radius and may be more difficult also the joint may pucker if joined in the middle and any waves would be evident as you come down the hatch
use the plastic joiners
Select to expand quotecisco said..andy59 said..
Pyramid Paints sell a textured, semi gloss 2 pack marine grade white paint that hides a multitudes of sins and looks quite nice. Just prep the surface and roll or spray it on, job done.
That is what I would be doing. So simple and easy with a great result.
I wanted to see what type of two-pack this is, and found "Pyramid Paints" have changed name to "Seahorse Marine Paints" in Adelaide.
The web site is unusual in that it doesn't give any address or telephone contacts, just an email form.
Checked their product range but not sure I could spot the semi-gloss, super-thick 2-pack paint Andy referred to. Andy - which one is it?
